 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Cars / February 2008'96 Caravan blower issue
I have a '96 Caravan, when we turn on the heater (this just started, not sure if it's doing this with AC yet), it will only blow if it's turned full blast on the blower. All or nothing. I was told that this may have something to do with the cold (it's been fairly bitter cold here the last couple weeks, temps in the teens), but I'm not completely satisfied with this explanation. Any ideas? > I have a '96 Caravan, when we turn on the heater (this just started, not > sure if it's doing this with AC yet), it will only blow if it's turned full > blast on the blower. All or nothing. I was told that this may have something > to do with the cold (it's been fairly bitter cold here the last couple > weeks, temps in the teens), but I'm not completely satisfied with this > explanation. Any ideas? You need a new blower motor resistor. >> I have a '96 Caravan, when we turn on the heater (this just started, not >> sure if it's doing this with AC yet), it will only blow if it's turned full [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >You need a new blower motor resistor. I concur, that's a distinctive failure mode that's a dead giveaway... And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. Larry : > I have a '96 Caravan, when we turn on the heater (this just started, not : > sure if it's doing this with AC yet), it will only blow if it's turned full [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] : : You need a new blower motor resistor.  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. > > Larry Failed blower motors tend to not work well at high speed. Not what the OP described. >> And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. >> >> Larry > >Failed blower motors tend to not work well at high speed. >Not what the OP described. Think. What Max is saying is the thing that can croak the resistor module is a failing blower motor. For instance, if one of the armature windings is shorted... > >> And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. > >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > failing blower motor. For instance, if one of the armature windings is > shorted... I don't think Max said that. I do think the part number for that resistor has superseded something like 6 times since it was introduced. I think it's because they're sh.t to begin with. I think that if there were a problem with shorted windings, the switch would be the pattern failure (it's not) I think I install about four of these a month. >> >> And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. >> >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >I don't think Max said that. Really? Then what do *you* think he meant when he said: "And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor." ?? > >> >> And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. > >> >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > "And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor." ?? I *think* he meant wait and see if the resistor fails again before you waste $200 on a new blower motor considering that the original resistors tend to be failure prone. Still don't see anything like; the thing that can croak the resistor module is a failing blower motor. For instance, if one of the armature windings is shorted... >> >> >> And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. >> >> >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >resistor module is a failing blower motor. For instance, if one >of the armature windings is shorted... Ok, you have a reading comprehension problem. Sorry... > >> >> On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 17:44:42 -0600, aarcuda69062 > >> >> <nonelson@sbcglobal.net> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > Ok, you have a reading comprehension problem. Sorry... No, I just don't see things that aren't there. >> >> >> On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 17:44:42 -0600, aarcuda69062 >> >> >> <nonelson@sbcglobal.net> [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > >No, I just don't see things that aren't there. It was right there in front of your face, son. Still is... > >> >> On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 21:51:57 -0600, aarcuda69062 > >> >> <nonelson@sbcglobal.net> [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > It was right there in front of your face, son. > Still is... Nope. Don't see where Max used the words "croak", "resistor module", "for instance", "armature", "shorted". In my Intrepid, the blower worked on high only. Replaced the resistor and got one day out of it. Blower worked on high only. Replaced blower motor assembly and resistor and it's been working great ever since. Bearings were going bad. Larry : > And if you replace it and it goes out again you need a new blower motor. : > : > Larry : : Failed blower motors tend to not work well at high speed. : Not what the OP described. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > In my Intrepid, the blower worked on high only. Replaced the resistor and > got one day out of it. Blower worked on high only. Replaced blower motor > assembly and resistor and it's been working great ever since. Bearings were > going bad. > > Larry I'll keep that in mind if a 96 Caravan ever morphs into an Intrepid. And what does that have to do with bearings freezing up? Larry : > In my Intrepid, the blower worked on high only. Replaced the resistor and : > got one day out of it. Blower worked on high only. Replaced blower motor [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] : I'll keep that in mind if a 96 Caravan ever morphs into an : Intrepid. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >: > In my Intrepid, the blower worked on high only. Replaced the resistor >: > and got one day out of it. Blower worked on high only. Replaced blower [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >Larry No worries - he clearly has comprehension issues that nobody here is going to solve for him... > >: > In my Intrepid, the blower worked on high only. Replaced the resistor > >: > and got one day out of it. Blower worked on high only. Replaced blower [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > No worries - he clearly has comprehension issues that nobody here is going to > solve for him... You two crack me up. Since Larry had a car that had worn blower motor bearings, all blower problems -must- be identical and related to worn motor bearings. Larry now claims that the bearings in the blower motor froze up. One would *think* (there's that word again) that "freezing up" bearings would manifest themselves as reduced blower speed on high setting. Gaytripper, I didn't disagree with what Max said, on the other hand, Max didn't exactly condemn the blower motor from the get go, and for very good reason. Obviously neither one of you is a professional so shotgunning every possible related part at the problem is part and parcel. I also strongly suspect neither one of you or the OP have the necessary equipment to determine the health of the blower motor and as such, the appropriate action for the OP is to replace the blower resistor. Well, obviously you missed all the points being made. And as far as being a professional? Went to school for it (MoTech, know who they were?). I may be "old school" and I don't do it for a living anymore, but mechanical principles are still the same. Bearings start getting "stiff" (freezing up), motor starts drawing more current. That burns out that little electrical component on the resistor block (if you've ever looked at one, you would know what it is). "In my Intrepid..." was an "EXAMPLE" of "MY" experience. Considering, when it first went out, I asked about it here, and Glenn and Bill told me what it was. When it went out again, I used correct troubleshooting techniques to determine why the resistor was going out. Larry : > >: > In my Intrepid, the blower worked on high only. Replaced the resistor : > >: > and got one day out of it. Blower worked on high only. Replaced blower [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] : and as such, the appropriate action for the OP is to replace the : blower resistor. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > Well, obviously you missed all the points being made. Nope, didn't miss any points being made. Didn't miss any invented statement either. > And as far as being a > professional? Went to school for it (MoTech, know who they were?). Were? As in no longer? > I may be "old school" and I don't do it for a living anymore, but mechanical > principles are still the same. "Don't do it for a living anymore." The reasons are obvious. > Bearings start getting "stiff" (freezing up), > motor starts drawing more current. Do ya *think* the motor slows down during these events? Didn't MoTech teach you to use your ears? As for the using more current... Didn't MoTech teach you to use an amp meter? > That burns out that little electrical > component on the resistor block (if you've ever looked at one, you would > know what it is). It's a thermal limiter and now *you* know what it is also. I would also point out that the thermal limiter is not used in all models or in all years, it may eventually become part of the component in an upgrade of the part, it may be deleted in an upgrade of the part. > "In my Intrepid..." was an "EXAMPLE" of "MY" experience. And you felt compelled to tell a story about it even though your second generation Intrepid has little in common with a 96 Caravan. Yes Larry, sometimes the blower motor causes the resistor failure, like in 1 out of 25 resistor failures. The fact that the part number has superseded so many times bears this out. > Considering, when it first went out, I asked about it here, and Glenn and > Bill told me what it was. When it went out again, I used correct > troubleshooting techniques to determine why the resistor was going out. For someone who attended Motech, you sure need a lot of outside help. > Well, obviously you missed all the points being made. And as far as being a > professional? Went to school for it (MoTech, know who they were?). I may be [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Larry Going to school at MO Tech and either "knowledge" or "placement" are totally independent occurences in this business (assuming that your puffed up MOTech-going chest has been made so due to an Automotive Technology degree, as they offer others). I don't have the numbers, but I would bet lunch at an expensive establishment that Ranken has graduated/placed more people in automotive service jobs than MO Tech, but that by itself doesn't make them worth a f.ck. I know Ranken grads that are totally worthless. Conversely, I know non-grads of *any such* institute that fix cars both ethically and properly for a living (very rare indeed). So, given your hoity toity credentials, why did you ask --on a newsgroup-- a question about your *own* car's repair? Toyota MDT in MO P.S. bow in reverence to those who know virtually everything automotive about virtually everything automotive, instead of being a douchebag. They are spending time here so that you may see the light. Did you give your world class instructors this much flack back at the hallowed halls of MO Tech? As I said, "old school". I went over thirty years ago. I'm not "up to date" on the newer electronics and technology in today's vehicles. That's why I ask here about my Intrepid. My old big block B body cars, I can take care of myself without help. The dealership I worked for (over 29 years ago) had their four "favorites" that made all the money, the rest of us got per hour. I left and went into electronics for the Federal Government. I can work on old Mopars, but sometimes I need help with these newer engines and all of their sensors, codes, etc. Larry So, given your hoity toity credentials, why did you ask --on a newsgroup-- a question about your *own* car's repair? SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > As I said, "old school". I went over thirty years ago. I took that into consideration before replying. It did seem like you were touting your credentials as if they validated your diagnosis of the OP's complaint, so I found the two concepts to be contradictory to one another. > I'm not "up to date" > on the newer electronics and technology in today's vehicles. That's why I > ask here about my Intrepid. This is where I'm confused. Has the testing of voltage, resistance, and DC motors changed in 30 years? That would be surprising to find out, but I was diagnosing Chutes n' Ladders 30 years ago so anything is possible. > My old big block B body cars, I can take care of > myself without help. The dealership I worked for (over 29 years ago) had > their four "favorites" that made all the money, the rest of us got per hour. Things haven't changed much RE: favorites. I left and went into electronics for the Federal Government. I can work on > old Mopars, but sometimes I need help with these newer engines and all of > their sensors, codes, etc. 'Etc' as in resistor blocks? What did the government use to drop current to a DC load? Toyota MDT in MO > So, given your hoity toity credentials, why did you ask --on a > newsgroup-- a question about your *own* car's repair? > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com >I have a '96 Caravan, when we turn on the heater (this just started, not > sure if it's doing this with AC yet), it will only blow if it's turned [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > weeks, temps in the teens), but I'm not completely satisfied with this > explanation. Any ideas? It could be the damper door is not opening. When the blower is off the damper will close. If you hear the blower and not getting any air it could be the damper door electric motor. > >I have a '96 Caravan, when we turn on the heater (this just started, not > > sure if it's doing this with AC yet), it will only blow if it's turned [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > damper will close. If you hear the blower and not getting any air it could > be the damper door electric motor. The doors have nothing to do with blower motor speed. If you don't have the first 3 speeds and have high, replace the resistor as stated above Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech 2 questions Should I assume that this is a dealer part? How easy is this to replace myself? Thanks. On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 01:15:58 +0000, no wrote: > 2 questions > > Should I assume that this is a dealer part? No. > How easy is this to replace myself? Easy. > Thanks. Welcome. Signature"Ubuntu" -- an African word, meaning "Slackware is too hard for me". Relpaced the resistor Monday afternoon, still seems to be working OK. Thanks all for the advice. This is interesting because my 99 Ram VAn blower is doing the same thing. Unless somone says otherwise I'll assume it's fixed the same way. Mine went out in very cold weather also. > Relpaced the resistor Monday afternoon, still seems to be working OK. Thanks > all for the advice. I jumped the gun on this call, apparently. Symptoms have resumed. Is the blower motor next on the list? >I jumped the gun on this call, apparently. Symptoms have resumed. Is the >blower motor next on the list? Yup, that would be next in the logical progression, as was previously mentioned here... >>I jumped the gun on this call, apparently. Symptoms have resumed. Is the >>blower motor next on the list? > >Yup, that would be next in the logical progression, as was previously >mentioned here... But also be sure the blower housing isn't getting filled with moisture and "freezing" which will also burn out the resistors - very good idea to leave the vehicle parked with the blower on HIGH, which takes the somewhat fragile resistor pack out of the equation. Not very likely to be a shorted armature either. More likely sticky bearings SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>I jumped the gun on this call, apparently. Symptoms have resumed. Is the >>>blower motor next on the list? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >Not very likely to be a shorted armature either. More likely sticky >bearings Just thought of another "issue". If the air inlet is plugged and the fan is on other than high speed, there is insufficient airflow past the resistor pack to keep it cool, so it is more likely to burn out. Again, the SAFE way is to ALWAYS start with the fan on high. It does more for your defrost that way anyway, so why not?? SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.