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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Cars / February 2008

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1994 Dodge Stealth keeps stalling at idle when warmed up, why?

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Logic316 - 19 Feb 2008 02:54 GMT
I have a 1994 Dodge Stealth (base model) with a 3.0 SOHC V6 Mitsubishi
engine and automatic transmission. Recently, my car would often stall when
idling after it's been fully warmed up. It runs fine when it's cold, has no
problem starting up, runs smooth and has plenty of power when cruising or
accelerating, and I have not noticed any drop in gas mileage. But after I've
been driving it for about 10 minutes and the engine's reached it's full
operating temperature, when I come to a stop the engine starts stumbling and
running rough, and the RPMs drop and it stalls out. I thought it might just
be a case of bad watered-down gas, but after 2 tankfuls later from different
gas stations and 4 bottles of Drygas (fuel drying additive) it's still doing
it. It hesitates and stalls even when I slip the transmission into Neutral
or Park. For the time being, I've been able to keep the engine from stalling
by turning up the idle screw, but it still often runs rough at idle so it's
not a permanent fix. Also, my "check engine" light does *not* come on.

Maintenence info: Within the past 20,000 miles, I have replaced the fuel
filter, timing belt, spark plugs, plug cables, distributor cap and rotor,
battery, and just recently the air filter.

Thanks for any tips!

- Logic316
Bob Shuman - 19 Feb 2008 03:42 GMT
When was the throttle body and AIS last cleaned?  Any error lights or codes?

  Bob

>I have a 1994 Dodge Stealth (base model) with a 3.0 SOHC V6 Mitsubishi
> engine and automatic transmission. Recently, my car would often stall when
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> - Logic316
Logic316 - 19 Feb 2008 19:35 GMT
> When was the throttle body and AIS last cleaned?  Any error lights or
> codes?
>
>   Bob

I am not getting any "check engine" light or any other error lights on my
dashboard. All the guage readings look normal. I did spray carburetor
cleaner in and around the throttle body only 500 miles ago, and everything
looks pretty clean in there. Somebody in another group suggested that it
might be a worn oxygen sensor, but I took all three of them out, cleaned and
tested them on a voltmeter about 5000 miles ago and they were working fine.
I would also think my gas mileage would noticably suffer and I would
probably get a check "engine light" if any of those were the problem, so I
doubt it.

- Logic316
G. R. Woodring - 20 Feb 2008 01:10 GMT
>> When was the throttle body and AIS last cleaned?  Any error lights or
>> codes?
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> - Logic316

My best _guess_ right now would be a vacuum leak.  You might be able to hear a
hissing sound as the engine dies.  Feel for a vacuum hose that is soft and/or
collapsed.  Sometimes the collapsed section of hose will have slit broken open
in it.  A hose could also be cracked where it fits on the barb fitting.

A second guess:  Throttle Position Sensor.  Probe the connector at the middle
position with a digital voltmeter.  Sweep the throttle through it's full range.
 The voltage should go smoothly from about 1/2 volt to nearly 5 volts.  Any
sudden dips (especially all the way to zero) indicate a fault.

I hope this helps but sometimes eliminating what is _not_ wrong is nearly as
helpful :-)

Signature

G. R. Woodring

Bhagat Gurtu - 21 Feb 2008 00:31 GMT
>> When was the throttle body and AIS last cleaned?  Any error lights or
>> codes?
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
>- Logic316

The fact that it runs OK when the engine is cold is because the ECU
enriches the fuel mixture until the engine reaches operating
temperature.

Your 'shitty box is trying to tell you that it can't adjust its idle
speed. The idle speed is controlled by an automatic idle speed control
valve which is an electro mechanical business controlled by the ECU.
These things get dirty and also wear out. Remove it from your 'shitty
box and squirt copious amounts of carby cleaner through it until it
runs clean and then squirt some automotive grade ghee into it for
lubrication.

I seriously doubt that you can test an O2 sensor with a multimeter
(all that will do is test the circuits internal resistance). To test
one you need to see the signal it produces when it is at operating
temperature and subjected to exhaust gas!
 
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