Stilo: Renewing Front Brake Pads

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

TC - 25 Jul 2005 18:13 GMT

Readers, can anyone offer help on the ease of renewing the front pads on a
Stilo 2002/52 plate car? I have the OEM pads - wondered if I need any
special tools or if easing the cylinders back with a suitably sized piece of
wood will be good enough?

with thanks in anticipation,

Cashman

Reply to this Message

Nick Bailey ///// - 25 Jul 2005 19:06 GMT

Hi Cashman

I've not yet done this on my Stilo Abarth but I see no reason why you should
have any problems.

The calipers may bolt on, in which case the new OEM pads will probably come
with new bolts. If not then reuse of the old bolts is OK but I would clean
them and put a drop of lock fluid (Loctite) on the threads before
reassembly.

With regards to pushing the 'pots' back then:

1) syphon off some brake fluid from the top-up reservoir unless the is
obviously plenty of spare space/capacity left in the reservoir.
2) gently press the pots back into the caliper. With ABS systems the
resistance can be higher so I've often used a strip of steel and two
adjustable pliers (one on each end of the steel strip placed over the pot
and each side extending outside of the caliper profile) to squeeze the pot
back into the caliper. When pushing the pot back check how the reservoir
level is going otherwise this will get very messy topside!

Nick /////

> Readers, can anyone offer help on the ease of renewing the front pads on a
> Stilo 2002/52 plate car? I have the OEM pads - wondered if I need any
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Cashman

Reply to this Message

ato_zee@hotmail.com - 25 Jul 2005 19:51 GMT

> With regards to pushing the 'pots' back then:
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> back into the caliper. When pushing the pot back check how the reservoir
> level is going otherwise this will get very messy topside!

Brake cylinders can get coated with dried on fluid/dust/gunge, if you
can, remove the dust cap. Then clean well with aerosol can brake
cleaner (Q-tips and a fine brush can help). When thoroughly clean
apply brake fluid to cylinder, once it reaches the seal the brake
fluid will lubricate it and it will push back much easier. Pushing
gunge encrusted cylinders back is a good way of knackering the
seal. I use silicone grease instead of brake fluid for this, the
seal stops it contaminating the fluid, and in any case performance
brake fluids are silicone based. The silicone grease provides
better long term lubrication to the piston, as well as being
non-hygroscopic. Attach a bleed pipe to the cylinder bleed
screw, loosen the screw, then when you push the cylinder
back you are less likely to flood the master cylinder. Reclean
with spray cleaner, replace dust cap. I made a pusher back
from a cartridge gun, suitably sized sockets drop into the
hollow cylinder to fill it and aid pushing back. Make sure
any fluid, greasy fingermarks, are removed from disk when
you have finished.

Reply to this Message

Nick Bailey ///// - 26 Jul 2005 19:19 GMT

Your point about opening the bleed nipple before attempting to push the
cylinder back is a good one. I've done this in the past but found that
manupilating the cylinder push back and trying to collect and control the
bleeding of fluid into a container a bit of a handfull. Having said this
though it does make the push back of the cylinder so much easier.

Nick /////

>> With regards to pushing the 'pots' back then:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> any fluid, greasy fingermarks, are removed from disk when
> you have finished.

Reply to this Message

TC - 28 Jul 2005 22:58 GMT

Guys, thanks for all the advice. I got a quote from the local garage -
Nationwide Auto Centres - they were happy to fit the pads I supplied, cost
was £36.00 UK Pounds, all in - labour. Pads were mail order at £40.00
Quite happy with that, it included a check of all of the rest of the car's
vitals.
Cashman

> Hi Cashman
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>
>> Cashman

Reply to this Message