Dear newsgroup,
I have a problem with my tipo ('91).
It sometimes drives very goatish.
Sometimes (appr. 20-30% of the time, seems more if it's rainy) it doesn't
acellerate anymore if I want to, it seems the more I kick the less it's
accellerates (or better it seems to throttle).
This happpens from now to then and disappears from now to then (like
switches on/off).
On a highway I can't drive more than 80-100km/h with this error, in the
morning it is difficult to get throu the city (accelerate at traffic
lights).
At the moment it happpens nearly every morning and lasts for 2-40min (so I
sometimes drive the full way with this).
I have already checked
- spark plugs
- ignition cables
- ignition distributor
- sparc coil
- throttle poti
- engine control unit
- temp sensors at the engine
What else can produce this error ?
Because if can appear/disappear anytime I think it must be something in the
electricity.
Thank you for your help and I hope my english is at least a bit
understandable.
Gregor
Croatiasped-Bregana - 01 Sep 2005 01:01 GMT
It could be faulty gum hoses on carburator or ignition distributor.
I have Tipo 1.4 '90 and I have to change electronics under ignition
distributor every few years. Sometimes this electronics wont generate signal
for sparc coil in the middle of driving and I have to stop and give a little
kick to this small electronic box with screwdriver.
"Gregor Copoix" <GCopoix@gmx.de> je napisao u poruci interesnoj
grupi:3nj87cF1pij6U1@individual.net...
> Dear newsgroup,
>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>
> Gregor
@BB - 04 Sep 2005 18:10 GMT
Check ALL push on vaccuum hoses at rear of engine for cracks at end of hose,
replace any that have gone hard at the ends. they could be sucking in air,
this can cool or freeze the carb', check if the carb is cold to the touch
even after driving for a few miles.
> Dear newsgroup,
>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>
> Gregor
ato_zee@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2005 19:41 GMT
> Check ALL push on vaccuum hoses at rear of engine for cracks at end of hose,
> replace any that have gone hard at the ends. they could be sucking in air,
> this can cool or freeze the carb', check if the carb is cold to the touch
> even after driving for a few miles.
IF - it has a carb also check for sediment/debris/water in the float chamber.
I found that you can get blocked jets, held in place by the flow of fuel,
which clears (for a short while) when the engine stops. Then after a
somewhat variable distance it comes back again. I made a suction
bottle out of a soft plastic bottle and a piece of screen washer tubing.
Then I didn't have to take the carb off to clean the bottom of the
float chamber. Empty into a clean glass jar to see any collected
debris.
Gregor Copoix - 05 Sep 2005 15:11 GMT
> IF - it has a carb also check for sediment/debris/water in the float
> chamber.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> float chamber. Empty into a clean glass jar to see any collected
> debris.
It's an Injection carb (the one with the injection pump on top).
Where should there stay any debris ?
Gregor
ato_zee@hotmail.com - 05 Sep 2005 19:19 GMT
> It's an Injection carb (the one with the injection pump on top).
> Where should there stay any debris ?
The original response referred to a conventional carb with float chamber.
In your case it sounds like you have an engine management system
with sensors. If so there is probably a lambda sensor in the exhaust
system, and a maifold absolute pressure sensor connected to the
manifold. If the lambda sensor starts to fail the car starts to
intermittently surge and stall. If it's the manifold MAP sensor
the car starts to either over fuels (black oily plugs and sometimes
burning smell), or less often run starved of fuel and lack power
on acceleration. Best bet is an exhaust gas check.