Squeeking noise is rather vague.  Could bet the cam belt or an auxialatry
belt or even something else.

With regards to changing a cam belt on a diesel engine I have never done
this.  However in principal is is the same as for a petrol engine.

The main problems to tackle are:

1) Setting the engine up in the correct set position
2) Removing the cam belt cover
3) Removing the crank shaft end pulley
4) Resetting the correct set position as in step 1), unless you have a
flywheel locking tool
5) Marking up all toothed pulley positions. (camshaft, auxialry shafts etc.)
6) Releasing the tensioner
7) Removing the old belt maintaining 5) positions
8) Putting new belt on maintaining 5)
9) Engaging the tensioner and setting the tension
10) Hand cycling the engine (bad news on a diesel as you can't remove the
spark plugs to release compression effects)
11) Checking tension and alignment marks - tension can initially be checked
by grabbibng the belt, midway on the long camshaft to crank section, between
the thumb and forefinger and twisting the through 90 degrees.  AS you
approach the 90 degree angle resistance and pressure/mild discomfort on the
fingers should be apparent.  If you get to 90 degrees very easily it is the
slack.  Can't get to 90 degrees it is too tight.
12) Replace crank shaft pulley and any auxilary belts
13) Start engine (with fingers crossed) and let it idle
14) Check for belt whip looseness etc.  After an initial warm up period one
can 'blip' the throttle.  Any excess slack will be noticeable by large
deviation in the long down belt run where you twisted it thought 90 degrees.
15) Stop engine and check step 11) again.
16) Replace cam belt cover.

With regards to tools:

1) flywheel lock is desireable not essential, possible gated by 2)
2) crank shaft pulley wheels are secured either by one big NUT or 5 smaller
bolts (often allen key headed).  If the single large nut is used removing
this can prove interesting if you don't have a flywheel lock.  Generally
locking the engine via the gearbox, passenger assistance on the brakes or
even a screw driver blade jammed between the teeth of the starter ring on
the flywheel is enough engine locking to allow removal of the big nut.  A
windy (air gun) gun will often whip the nut off without any engine locking.
3) tensioning the belt is either manual rotation of the tensioner pulley or
the pulley is sprung loaded.  Note!!! if sprung loaded then initally
manually rotate the engine smoothely with the new belt fitted BEFORE locking
off the tensioner.  Doing this will allow the belt to dynamically settle.
Bit like settling/adjusting the tie string on a pair of shorts.  If manual
then inspect the tensioner for signes of either a cam, lever/flange or two
small holes in the central boss of the pulley either side of the central
locking bolt.    If you have the two holes then a couple of  suitable bolts
or rods inserted into the holes with a screw driver shaft used between the
bolt shafts to twist and tension is all that is require.

Can it be done in and afternoon.  Yes BUT for the first time I would allow a
full day, AFTER having first checked out the lay of the land with respect to
what you will actually have under the cam belt cover and on the end of the
crank shaft.

Nick /////

Try tightening the fanbelt  ?

It's under more load for the 1st few mins (after just starting) and probably
damp so slips more.

Graham

have a look at the belt for the generator. Most likely it needs
replacing or tightening.

Heiner