It's unlikely that the compressor is the problem. Unless the A/C is turned
on, the clutch should freewheel .
2 things to check.
1. with the engine running, and the a/c off, if the pulley is still while
the belt slips over it, then the bearing in the clutch is bad. About an
$80.00 part for a complet assy.
2. you can try to turn the compressor by hand by rotating the outside (not
the pulley) with your hand (engine off of course). you should be able to
move it.
good luck.
> We've got a 92 explorer. The air conditioner motor has
> seized and the fan belt is just slipping over it. I assume
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?
The pulley sometimes turns once or twice but is usually still.
> It's unlikely that the compressor is the problem. Unless the A/C is turned
> on, the clutch should freewheel .
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>
>> Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?
>It's unlikely that the compressor is the problem. Unless the A/C is turned
>on, the clutch should freewheel .
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>the belt slips over it, then the bearing in the clutch is bad. About an
>$80.00 part for a complet assy.
Doesn't the bearing go between the clutch and the compressor shaft?
When the clutch is activated, doesn't it turn the compressor?
So, if the bearing is seized, won't the belt turn the compressor?
Could be both, but if the clutch doesn't turn at all, the compressor
is probably shot.
>2. you can try to turn the compressor by hand by rotating the outside (not
>the pulley) with your hand (engine off of course). you should be able to
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>>
>> Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"
Dr. Rastis Fafoofnik - 05 Nov 2004 17:47 GMT
The A/C compressor AND clutch assembly are both hammered.....
The magnetic clutch sits on the compressor's input shaft, if it's not
turning the compressor, it's scrap metal by now. If they kept trying to get
it to run, the clutch is wasted along with it.
Time to bend over and pay for a new compressor, clutch and serpintine belt.
Jim Warman - 06 Nov 2004 07:24 GMT
Agreed.... most everyone I have ever seen trying to get by with just a
pulley bearing and a clutch coil winds up buying all that stuff again along
with a new compressor. The added financial burden ALWAYS comes BEFORE the
pocketbook has recovered from the first assault.
It sounds like the original poster is continuing to drive the car...... It
should be mentioned that the water pump not turning is a lot scarier than
the alternator not turning and paying the tow truck bill isn't going to make
it easier to pay for the needed repair.
> The A/C compressor AND clutch assembly are both hammered.....
> The magnetic clutch sits on the compressor's input shaft, if it's not
> turning the compressor, it's scrap metal by now. If they kept trying to get
> it to run, the clutch is wasted along with it.
> Time to bend over and pay for a new compressor, clutch and serpintine belt.
*selah* - 07 Nov 2004 08:13 GMT
How difficult is it to install one of these? I've done some refrigeration
but not car air conditioners.
Also, I'm wondering about the cost of the parts.
Thanks.
> The A/C compressor AND clutch assembly are both hammered.....
> The magnetic clutch sits on the compressor's input shaft, if it's not
> turning the compressor, it's scrap metal by now. If they kept trying to get
> it to run, the clutch is wasted along with it.
> Time to bend over and pay for a new compressor, clutch and serpintine belt.
Chief_Wiggum - 06 Nov 2004 02:53 GMT
> >It's unlikely that the compressor is the problem. Unless the A/C is turned
> >on, the clutch should freewheel .
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Doesn't the bearing go between the clutch and the compressor shaft?
No, the bearing goes between the pully and the nose of the compressor
housing. The clutch is connected via a spline shaft to the compressor drive.
> When the clutch is activated, doesn't it turn the compressor?
Yes
> So, if the bearing is seized, won't the belt turn the compressor?
No. the pully just doesn't freewheel.
> Could be both, but if the clutch doesn't turn at all, the compressor
> is probably shot.
Not if the compressor still turns.. Definately could be both though...
have to check more!
> >2. you can try to turn the compressor by hand by rotating the outside (not
> >the pulley) with your hand (engine off of course). you should be able to
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> Bill Funk
> Change "g" to "a"
I say compressor. Remember I just replaced mine in July. If the clutch
seizes, it will merely turn the compressor, which really won't hurt anything
but mileage. If the compressor seizes AND the clutch seizes....bad news. It
might be a good idea to make sure the AC is turned off. If it is, and the
clutch is still engaged...again, bad news. If the clutch freewheels, it will
confirm the compressor.
If he is going to do the replacement himself, he can usually pick the
compressor up at a salvage yard for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
He'll want to pick up a dryer as well, and a new orifice tube. If he's
frugal, he can do the job himself for under $100.
| It's unlikely that the compressor is the problem. Unless the A/C is turned
| on, the clutch should freewheel .
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
| >
| > Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?
Charlie Bress - 07 Nov 2004 16:26 GMT
He has a 92. Unless it was ever converted it still has the old Freon. Not
applicable to a DIY replacement
Charlie
> I say compressor. Remember I just replaced mine in July. If the clutch
> seizes, it will merely turn the compressor, which really won't hurt anything
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> | >
> | > Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?
John Riggs - 08 Nov 2004 06:20 GMT
I have a '92, and I did the conversion myself..
It's about $10 extra in parts, and maybe $50 to have someone evac the system
and put in the R134.
| He has a 92. Unless it was ever converted it still has the old Freon. Not
| applicable to a DIY replacement
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
| > | >
| > | > Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?
*selah* - 08 Nov 2004 06:45 GMT
Would appreciate help on where to get info on how to do this, (diagrams,
repair manual, etc.) The chilton manual doesn't go into it at all and
just says that it's dangerous.
Thanks.
> I have a '92, and I did the conversion myself..
> It's about $10 extra in parts, and maybe $50 to have someone evac the system
[quoted text clipped - 48 lines]
>| > | >
>| > | > Is there a simple way to add oil and unstick it?