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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Explorer / January 2005

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92 explorer check engine light and poor gas mileage

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Dedge - 05 Jan 2005 14:36 GMT
Hello eveyone, I am new to this group and I really hope there is
someone out there who can help me. First off I have a 92 Ford
Explorer with a 4 litre and 4wd. It has about 179k on the motor, but
has been very well maintained, (engine and drivetrain wise, body kind
of rusty but what can you do in Michigan winters). When I first got
it, it was running beautifully, getting 21+ miles on the road and
between 15-17 in town. Now the check engine light comes on, and it
idles rough. (rpms REALLY fluctuate and sometimes when I put it in
reverse to back out of the driveway it really chokes. Even when
warm.) And even more alarming now, is the fact that it is only
getting between 6 and 8 mpg's. Not kidding, I got 65 miles on 3/4 of
a tank of gas. I talked to some people and EVERYONE said o2 sensor,
so I changed that and still nothing. The check engine light still
comes on, and it is still breaking the bank driving it to work.

And all of this happened pretty much all of a sudden.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Dan
Jim Warman - 05 Jan 2005 14:39 GMT
Codes... you need to have the trouble codes read... without them, everything
is a wild guess.

> Hello eveyone, I am new to this group and I really hope there is
> someone out there who can help me. First off I have a 92 Ford
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Dan
Big Shoe - 05 Jan 2005 20:56 GMT
Better quit driving and get it fixed.  Next thing is the excess carbon
being created will plug the catalyst.

>Codes... you need to have the trouble codes read... without them, everything
>is a wild guess.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>>
>> Dan
John Riggs - 05 Jan 2005 23:04 GMT
   Geez....sounds like me....except my mileage. Mine was a MAF sensor and a
brake switch.

| Hello eveyone, I am new to this group and I really hope there is
| someone out there who can help me. First off I have a 92 Ford
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
|
| Dan
Dedge - 05 Jan 2005 23:27 GMT
Well I took it to the shop today and had them run a scan on it and the
code that came back was 173.  I don't know if this will help at all.
The rough idle is a separate issue from the poor mileage too.  The
rough idle was the idler something motor, that is a relatively easy and
cheap fix.  Actually he said I might be able to get away with just
cleaning it.

Gonna do some more research, but any more input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all the help thus far everyone, I truly do appreciate it.
Dan
Jim Warman - 06 Jan 2005 03:09 GMT
I'm happy that someone can separate these issues so concisely.... 173 is a
rich mixture indication which can cause a rough idle. I'm going to go out on
a limb and assume that the "idler soething motor" is the IAC.... The IAC can
give surge, stall, high idle, low idle and any other 'near' steady state
condition, Rough idle depends on your concept of rough.

Other info required.. was this code a memory code or an engine running
code..... YES - it makes a difference.

Sometimes you CAN get away with "just cleaning it".... depends on how you
feel about repeat failures. I have "cleaned" many IACs, MAFs, EGRs, etc.
Many of these came back to bite me before I decided on signed waivers. The
big problem with signed waivers is that I never have the opportunity to
display these after my cost saving attempts have become "de riguer" on the
cocktail circuit.

If I cheap out for you and it works, I'm a wizard.... If I cheap out and it
doesn't work, I'm a dork...... If I fix it the way I am comfortable with,
you will find someone who had the cheap fix work and you will feel over
charged and I will look like a dork.

> Well I took it to the shop today and had them run a scan on it and the
> code that came back was 173.  I don't know if this will help at all.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Thanks for all the help thus far everyone, I truly do appreciate it.
> Dan
John Riggs - 06 Jan 2005 03:38 GMT
   Geez, now you are sounding like me.....
A technician can never win, you know that.

| I'm happy that someone can separate these issues so concisely.... 173 is a
| rich mixture indication which can cause a rough idle. I'm going to go out on
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
| > Thanks for all the help thus far everyone, I truly do appreciate it.
| > Dan
Jim Warman - 06 Jan 2005 04:12 GMT
Oh, c'mon now, John..... there was some kind of error message..... something
about an illegal abortion..... I ran a couple of software cracks and
"pictures of me and my girlfriend",,, ran that three times and never did see
the porn 8^(..... Now, by hard drive, you do mean the TV thing, right? I
have a 286 with Pentuiuiunumum 3. I have 3 gig RAM (I couldn't get 32 pin so
I trimmed off some bigger stuff - and who said you needed a PCI slot for a
PCI card?).

The consumer is always right... he told me so....

>     Geez, now you are sounding like me.....
> A technician can never win, you know that.
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> | > Thanks for all the help thus far everyone, I truly do appreciate it.
> | > Dan
John Riggs - 06 Jan 2005 05:02 GMT
   Exactly

| Oh, c'mon now, John..... there was some kind of error message..... something
| about an illegal abortion..... I ran a couple of software cracks and
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
| > | > Thanks for all the help thus far everyone, I truly do appreciate it.
| > | > Dan
Dedge - 06 Jan 2005 12:51 GMT
Well I took it apart and cleaned it and checked for dirty connections
on the MAF sensor and the cold air temp sensor. Idle has seemed to
stop fluctuating, so that seems to be fixed....... for now. Check
engine light is still coming on. Anyway that error code is a running
code. A buddy of mine has an explorer with the same motor and a dead
tranny and he said I could borrow his old MAF sensor and cold air temp
sensor to see if that helps me out at all. Another backyard mechanic
suggested that it might be the TPS but I don't think that I am
comfortable attempting that one by myself. Again, I really do
appreciate any and all help thus far and Jim I love your consumer is
always right post, I am a technician myself and that is just too damn
funny.

Do you think that borrowing those sensors is a waste of time? Am I
just being a jackass trying to save a couple of bucks replacing still
working parts?

Thanks
Dan
Jim Warman - 07 Jan 2005 03:08 GMT
If the sensors are known to be good and they are available for use, subbing
them is a viable choice.....

Have you checked to be sure it is the same code coming back? How about the
general state of tune? Fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking... that sort of
stuff.

> Well I took it apart and cleaned it and checked for dirty connections
> on the MAF sensor and the cold air temp sensor. Idle has seemed to
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Thanks
> Dan
Dedge - 07 Jan 2005 11:44 GMT
Mostly it runs really really well.  I have only had it for about 5
months and the people that I bought it from were very meticulous about
taking general care about it.  I changed the MAF sensor and that did
not seem to help matters at all.  As far as the fuel pressure regulator
goes, how would I go about changing that?  It doesn't appear to be
leaking, but I am wonding if it isn't stuck open or something.  Can I
just pull the gas lines off of it and then the two bolts on the side,
or is there something special I need to do to it because it is under
pressure?

As far as the codes, I believe it was checked a total of 3 times all
with the same code....however it has not been back in since I changed
the MAF sensor.

Also I was checking the oil last night and I could smell fuel in the
oil Big Time.  Although I expected to be able to smell some, just not
that strong.

Dan
John Riggs - 07 Jan 2005 18:00 GMT
   You can have multiple issues. As I said, in my case, it was a MAF
sensor, and a brake switch....even though the indicator was codes indicating
the TPS was wide open, and my torque converter wasn't locking up.
Apparently, the brake switch is in the circuit for the transmission, and the
MAF sensor was bad, giving me the other code.
   If you have a reader, the manual will have a listing of codes and what
they mean. I'm still trying to work through how everything ties in, but I'm
getting there.

| Mostly it runs really really well.  I have only had it for about 5
| months and the people that I bought it from were very meticulous about
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
|
| Dan
Jim Warman - 07 Jan 2005 19:27 GMT
You'll have to pull the vacuum line off the FPR and check to see if any fuel
is coming out of the nipple the hose plugs on to. The diaphragms in these
regulators have been known to leak...

Another concern might be chronically high fuel pressure.

> Mostly it runs really really well.  I have only had it for about 5
> months and the people that I bought it from were very meticulous about
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Dan
Dedge - 07 Jan 2005 20:19 GMT
I traced the vacuum line from the FPR to the vacuum distribution and it
was dry there.  Didn't look corroded or anything like gas had been
getting there.  Do you still reccomend that I look at the vacuum line
where it attaches to the fpr?
How can I tell if it has chronically high fuel pressure?

Dan
Jim Warman - 08 Jan 2005 02:24 GMT
Yes, you should carefully inspect the line and nipple at the top of the fuel
pressure regulator...... turn the key to the run position while the line is
off to pressure up the fuel rail. A fuel pressure guage that reads to 100
psi is required to check fuel pressure.

> I traced the vacuum line from the FPR to the vacuum distribution and it
> was dry there.  Didn't look corroded or anything like gas had been
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Dan
Kevin D - 06 Jan 2005 04:58 GMT
Why bother cleaning it when you can get a new one at NAPA for $40?

This is one of the cheapest and easiest fixes you can do yourself.

> Well I took it to the shop today and had them run a scan on it and the
> code that came back was 173.  I don't know if this will help at all.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Thanks for all the help thus far everyone, I truly do appreciate it.
> Dan
Dedge - 06 Jan 2005 12:42 GMT
Well I took it apart and cleaned it and checked for dirty connections
on the MAF sensor and the cold air temp sensor.  Idle has seemed to
stop fluctuating, so that seems to be fixed....... for now.  Check
engine light is still coming on.  Anyway that error code is a running
code.  A buddy of mine has an explorer with the same motor and a dead
tranny and he said I could borrow his old MAF sensor and cold air temp
sensor to see if that helps me out at all.  Another backyard mechanic
suggested that it might be the TPS but I don't think that I am
comfortable attempting that one by myself.  Again, I really do
appreciate any and all help thus far and Jim I love your consumer is
always right post, I am a technician myself and that is just too damn
funny.

Do you think that borrowing those sensors is a waste of time?  Am I
just being a jackass trying to save a couple of bucks replacing still
working parts?

Thanks
Dan
dave@somogyi.com - 12 Jan 2005 13:17 GMT
Hello, this happened to me very recently.  If the symptons happened
suddenly, then you might have the same problem I did.  Basically, Fords
in the 1990's (and probably still today) are VERY sensitive to
air flow through the air filter.  I had my oil-changed at a Walmart,
and
they checked the air filter as usual, problem was that they
incorrectly re-installed the air filter.  I drove for a few
weeks with all sorts of idle/surge/stall problems.  I went to
a Ford dealer...they checked for codes (nothing), then they discovered
the air filter.  They mounted it properly, and the problem was fixed.

I know it's hard to believe, but doublecheck your air filter mounting.

Dave
dave@somogyi.com

> Hello eveyone, I am new to this group and I really hope there is
> someone out there who can help me. First off I have a 92 Ford
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Dan
 
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