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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Explorer / March 2005Welding my muffler question
I have a 97 XLT, the two brackets holding the rear of my muffler rusted away. These brackets are attached to the muffler itself and in order to repalce them with new I need to purchase a new muffler. But there is nothing wrong with my muffler itself. My question is what precautions do I need to follow in order to weld the brackets back to the muffler? I know that it would only take a quick tack, but with all the sensors I am worried. I know that I have to disconnect the neg. batt. cable, is there anything else that I should do. I don't want to open the can of worms just for two brackets. Searcher1 Why not just get two clamps suffiently oversized to go over the pipe and hook them back up? If the old clamps are that rusted, they should knock off relatively easy, but on the other hand, if you have rust on the outside, you can be assured you have just as much rust on the inside, and you'll be replacing that muffler in a few miles anyway. Mufflers are cheap, and you can get an OEM replacement at your local parts store, so less hassle with fit up. |I have a 97 XLT, the two brackets holding the rear of my muffler rusted | away. These brackets are attached to the muffler itself and in order to [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] | | Searcher1 Actually, the clamps that I am referring to are hangers. One on each side of the oval muffler (left and right at the rear, not end to end). Each hanger clamp has a rubber "shock" the gets attached to the body. It is actually the rods that are attached to the muffler that rusted away. It seems that the muffler had these two rods with balls ate the end you slip the ball ends through the rubber (this just sounds SO wrong) shocks. I hope this makes it a bit more clear. Sorry for not saying this in the first place Searcher1 Oh, okay, which brings you to the second half of my reply. Replace the muffler with an OEM replacement from AutoZone, Pep Boys, or some other similar parts house. They are relatively cheap, quick to replace, and you won't have to worry about welding up rod to your muffler. Now, if you are insistent on welding, use a brazing torch and braze new rod in place, but make sure you have the work adequately clear of anything that can catch fire, or have a welding blanket handy to shield what you don't want to ignite....or use a MIG welder with a flux core wire, .....or you can use an arc welder (stick weld ) using a 3/64" 5010, 6014, or 7013 rod @ 90 amp. I've recommended the welding as a last resort, AND in the orders least likely to blow holes in your "still good" muffler. Personally, this approach is penny wise and pound foolish, but it's your choice. | Actually, the clamps that I am referring to are hangers. One on each side of | the oval muffler (left and right at the rear, not end to end). [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] | | Searcher1 Ok. thanks, I will call around today and see what a new one will cost me. I was under the impression that this muffler would cost upwards of a 100 bucks. The muffler on the truck now is still nice and shiney. Its only these thin metal rods that are rusted. I would hate to throw good money away for this hanger assembly. I do have a MIG welder and fixing other items around the house has been a great learning experience. I have "blown Holes" in the beginning but I think I am getting better at determining the amps and wire speed. I figured that a quick tap joint would reattatch the muffler to the hangers and thus save me money. Searcher1 If the shiny muffler is galvanized, be careful not to breathe vapors generated while welding. Also the heat of welding will remove the galvanized protection from that area. >Ok. thanks, I will call around today and see what a new one will cost me. I >was under the impression that this muffler would cost upwards of a 100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Searcher1 |
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