93 Blower motor stopped working / resistor ?

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jbalz - 12 May 2005 15:38 GMT

I have a 93 Ford Explorer 2 door sport where the blower motor just
stopped working. It does not come on at all. Before it stopped working
there was never any grinding or noise comining from the fan. I have
replaced the relay and the fuse and still nothing. I can push in the
fan switch and the A/C comes on, just no air blowing.

I have read where there is also a blower motor resistor. Where is this
located and what does it look like ? I am trying to whittle down the
possibilities before I change the blower motor.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

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Kevin Trojanowski - 12 May 2005 17:26 GMT

> I have a 93 Ford Explorer 2 door sport where the blower motor just
> stopped working. It does not come on at all. Before it stopped working
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> located and what does it look like ? I am trying to whittle down the
> possibilities before I change the blower motor.

In my 93 (4 door, not 2 door, but I'd expect the engine compartment to
be similar, if not identical) the resistor pack is located near the
blower motor.

Mine is attached to something (not sure what it is, but I suspect a
vent) on the right (passenger) side of the firewall. It's attached to a
protrusion (sorry, no better term) to the left of the blower motor, and
is about 1" - 1.5" wide.

-Kevin

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Ulysses - 12 May 2005 17:47 GMT

> I have a 93 Ford Explorer 2 door sport where the blower motor just
> stopped working. It does not come on at all. Before it stopped working
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> I have read where there is also a blower motor resistor. Where is this
> located and what does it look like ?

On the '91 and '92 (probably the same for '93) if you are standing in front
of the car it is located in the AC housing just to the right of the blower
motor. It has a connector with 4 wires. There are two screws holding it
on. It's a LOT easier to get to if you remove the air cleaner housing
first.

The resistor is actually 3 resistors (I think--it's been a while) and a
diode. If the doide burned out you would probably still have high speed on
your fan. If the resistors burned out you should be able to see the problem
because they are coils of wire.

If you've checked everything else and can verify that you have power to the
fan motor then one more possibility is mice. I had one build a nest inside
the squirrel cage of my fan. Still don't know how they get in there. It's
also a lot easier to get the blower assembly out if you remove the air
filter housing. Probably necessary too.

BTW I found a good blower motor assembly on eBay for $5 plus shipping. I've
seen fan resistors on eBay too.

I am trying to whittle down the

> possibilities before I change the blower motor.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks

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lovs2fly - 13 May 2005 17:18 GMT

This has happen to me and it was an easy fix. In fact I was able to repair
the resistor. However, if the blower is not working at all then I would
first check the relay. sometimes you get a bad one. Second check to see if
you are getting power to the blower. If you are then I would suspect a bad
blower. Usually with a resistor you will get some speed out of the blower.

>> I have a 93 Ford Explorer 2 door sport where the blower motor just
>> stopped working. It does not come on at all. Before it stopped working
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>>
>> Thanks

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Happy Traveler - 16 May 2005 05:15 GMT

What looks like a diode in these assemblies is a thermal cutout. Its purpose
is to disconnect the motor, protecting from fire if the rotor stalls.
Sometimes they just fail for no good reason. Use an ohmeter to check it. The
cold resistance should be very low - less than 1 Ohm.
If it reads high resistance, replace the entire resistor assembly -- even if
you could find a replacement, it's not worth the hassle. While at it, turn
the blower by hand and make sure it rotates freely.

> The resistor is actually 3 resistors (I think--it's been a while) and a
> diode. If the doide burned out you would probably still have high speed on
> your fan. If the resistors burned out you should be able to see the problem
> because they are coils of wire.

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jbalz - 16 May 2005 16:16 GMT

Thanks everyone for their help. I did some basic diagnostics and found
that I was getting power to the fan motor. I changed out the fan motor
and it solved the problem. Took me about 45 minutes and most of that
was removing the filter box. $ 41 dollars from the auto parts store and
the air is blowing again.

The help on this forum rocks. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute as
readily as everyone here has.

I bought this baby new and it now has 241,000 on the motor and still
running strong. A little TLC, regular maintenance and a transmission (
imagine that ), and I am ahead of the game.

Thanks again.

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Ulysses - 16 May 2005 18:19 GMT

> What looks like a diode in these assemblies is a thermal cutout. Its purpose
> is to disconnect the motor, protecting from fire if the rotor stalls.

Hmmm. I think I'll replace my diode with a thermal cutout. Thanks for
straightening me out. I couldn't figure out why it had a diode in there
anyway...

> Sometimes they just fail for no good reason. Use an ohmeter to check it. The
> cold resistance should be very low - less than 1 Ohm.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> problem
> > because they are coils of wire.

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