Hey, that's good info about the repair kit, Bob.  Thanks.  I'll look for
one.

In my case, I didn't see the lights dim.  However, that may be because I
tried it only a few times with the interior lights on, then turned them
off at the dashboard switch since I had the door open for hours at a time.

With the trim panel off the door, I found that there is a connector that
runs down to the motor/circuit breaker.  I was able to stick my meter
probes into the back side of the connector, onto the wires that run down
to the motor, and see voltage as well as seeing the polarity reverse
when I hit the Down switch as opposed to the Up switch.  Your diagram
shows the same connector.

Just for yucks, I also pulled this connector apart, and measured the
resistance of the motor/circuit breaker.  About one or two ohms, as I
recall, confirming that the c/b was closed and the motor has continuity.

It was shortly after that when I discovered that I could hear the motor
make a short clunk when I hit either the Up or Down button - the motor
was trying to run, but there was no motion.  In addition, the motor did
NOT hum and run freely - it truly was not turning.

It was shortly after that when I discovered that if I used a mirror to
see into the door cavity, there was a small motion of a big white
(nylon) gear the first time I hit the Up or Down button.  The gear moved
a tiny bit - one way for Up, the other way for down - and then wouldn't
move any further when the same button was pressed again.

Not knowing what else to do, I gave up and reassembled the door.  I was
actually driving to the mechanic when I absently pushed the Down button.
 And it worked!  And still works, a few weeks later.  I have no idea why.

You are right - the diagram hasn't changed much, except for wire
numbers, connector numbers and so forth.  The new diagram also shows the
little LEDs that glow green under the switch.

Bill
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