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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Explorer / October 2006Ford Explorer. Power Windows, Erratic or inoperative
Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows. Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door. Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms. The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor. Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears were, by the way, OK. I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has a better idea. Bob I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the entire reulator. It sounds to me like that is what you should do. > Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion > up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Bob > I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted > in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > > > Bob Thanks homebrew. I got the rivets out and the lower slide or guide is out. That allowed the regulator to swing free and then I was able to raise the glass and prop it up That was not a problem.. I just can't see how to remove the regulator through that small hole and can't see how to free the regulator arms from the glass which may be the real problem. If I can get it off the upper track it may fold small enough to remove. Of course I am half way through cataract surgery. Maybe it will look differently with two good eyes. Thanks for your comments. > I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted > in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > > > Bob http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Ford/Explorer/1AWRG00049/306890&ovchn= OTHER&ovcpn=Shopping.com&ovcrn=&ovtac=CMP The link above was posted by someone responding to my cries for help on here and I appreciated it. Just seeing what my regulator looked like help me know what I was dealing with when the regulator was still in the door. I just recently did mine on 94 explorer. It was a &*^^!!! to get the regulator out but I did after removing the pop rivets and then sliding everything out of so as to have the regulator loose to position for removal and reinsertion through the small hole. When I did mine a few weeks ago I asked if anyone wanted any pictures and someone replied however I cannot find the reply asking for the pics. If you like I will put them on my website for a few weeks so you can see what I was up against. Pictures are not the best in the world but better than nothing. Sam in Raleigh. >Thanks homebrew. I got the rivets out and the lower slide or guide is >out. That allowed the regulator to swing free and then I was able to [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >> > >> > Bob Hi Sam, Thanks for the info. I know what it all looks like, I have done the ones in my blazer but just can not see how to get the regulator detached from the glass. All the hardware is out and it's hanging from the upper rail on the glass. As you well know, the access hole is too small and ill placed. It's not as if Ford was concerned about the integrity of the door. check out that piece of tubing welded across the outer skin. Might slow down a bicycle. I would be interested in what you found and what you did to correct your problem. In my case, the window was all the way down, the motor would not run even when temp. connected, directly, to 12 volts. After removing motor found it runs and all gears are in excellent condition. Hate to replace it when I don't know why. Had to be a mechanical bind in something. Bob > http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Ford/Explorer/1AWRG00049/306890&ovchn= OTHER&ovcpn=Shopping.com&ovcrn=&ovtac=CMP > [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > >> > > >> > Bob |
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