Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Ford / Ford Explorer / November 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

'05 Dragging Rear Brake (revisited)

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Bob - 14 Nov 2006 15:41 GMT
A little over 4 months ago I took my '05 XLT back to the dealer I
bought it used from because the right rear brake was occaisionally
dragging while starting out or very slowly creeping in traffic or at a
stop light. They said they did not find anything wrong and replaced
both rear pads and rotors.

All was well for a little while then it started happening again. Last
week I took it back to them and this time they replaced the pads,
sanded the rotors and also replaced the caliper on the right rear
thinking that it must be defective. Well, since then I have heard the
right rear brake dragging again three times, each time when I first
started off after not driving the vehicle for a bit...ie. first thing
this morning it happened again. I only hear that brake dragging when I
am starting out and once I get above about 10 mph, the dragging noise
stops.

Since they replaced the caliper and the dragging continues, what else
could be wrong?
Mikepier - 14 Nov 2006 17:35 GMT
> A little over 4 months ago I took my '05 XLT back to the dealer I
> bought it used from because the right rear brake was occaisionally
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Since they replaced the caliper and the dragging continues, what else
> could be wrong?

First I would try to confirm what you hear. See if you can jack up both
rear wheels off the floor and try to turn the wheel. If its dragging,
it could be the emergency brake that's dragging and not the disc
brakes. The e-brakes are internal inside the rotor. It is basically
shoe brakes that can be adjusted with the star wheel adjustment tool or
a screwdriver. Try pulling on the e-brake cable underneath the truck to
ensure its not hung up someplace.
Bob - 14 Nov 2006 18:00 GMT
:> A little over 4 months ago I took my '05 XLT back to the dealer I
:> bought it used from because the right rear brake was occaisionally
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
:a screwdriver. Try pulling on the e-brake cable underneath the truck to
:ensure its not hung up someplace.

Thanks.  Unfortunately, I don't have any way to jack up both
wheels...my workshop/tool resources are very limited.  What I don't
understand if it is something with the e-brake, then why it is dragging
because I rarely ever use the e-brake...and I can say for sure that I
did not use the e-brake between last night when I drove the vehicle and
it was not dragging and this morning when I heard the dragging noise
again.
Jim Warman - 15 Nov 2006 06:47 GMT
If I might be so bold as to make a suggestion....

I get the feeling that you are going to the dealer and stating that you have
a dragging brake concern when, in fact, you really have a noise concern....

Modern people are basically lazy... when unsupervised, they can be
tremendously slothful. Acting on your complaint of a dragging brake, I'll
bet  that nobody has verified the complaint... it is much easier to keep
fixing things that very well may not be broken.

The best thing is to state what your concern is rather than your impression
of what the cause is... Include any information that will allow the tech to
recreate the concern consistantly and easily. After all, the idea is to get
the truck fixed in a timely fashion.....
Bob - 15 Nov 2006 14:28 GMT
:If I might be so bold as to make a suggestion....
:
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
:recreate the concern consistantly and easily. After all, the idea is to get
:the truck fixed in a timely fashion.....

I appreciate the suggestion Jim.  However, in both the cases of my
going back to the dealer, they have observed that the pads and rotors
were in fact burnt/worn abnormally, and in my own experiences, I have
smelled "brakes" on numerous occaisions after a drive, and on at least
two occasions I have seen smoke coming from the questionable wheel
after applying the brakes.  To me, that is pretty good evidence that
the problem lies in the brake area somewhere. Also, the dragging,
historically, with the exception of the past few days, has not been
very predictable.  If the problem persists and is predictable, then
sure, I will take it back to them and do as you suggest, otherwise I'm
afraid they will not experience it themselves in a reasonable amount of
time and I cannot afford to be without a car for more than a couple
days.
sf/gf - 15 Nov 2006 20:07 GMT
Bob:

I have not followed all of your posts on this, but has the dealer replaced
or at least checked the right rear brake hose?  I have seen hoses swell on
the inside while looking normal on the outside.  The swollen hose keeps
brake fluid  pressure from returning to normal, thus causing the brakes to
drag on the affected wheel.

Steve F.
carbide@egine.com - 15 Nov 2006 21:01 GMT
> Bob:
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> brake fluid  pressure from returning to normal, thus causing the brakes to
> drag on the affected wheel.

That sort of thing would be consistent with the symptoms. Or say a
kinked hose, or dented in rigid brake line- the high pressure in the
line during braking would force its way thru to the caliper, but maybe
some residual pressure would remain when the pedal is released, keeping
the piston in the caliper pressing the brake pad against the disc.

So the lines from the right rear to where they join with the left rear
should be inspected inch by inch.  

-Paul
Bob - 15 Nov 2006 21:25 GMT
:> Bob:
:>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
:
:-Paul

Great comments, guys...thanks very much. The dealer, to my knowledge,
has not inspected or replaced the right rear brake hose.  Getting them
to do so without coming across as suggesting that is the problem might
be a tough thing to do if I follow Jim's advice on simply stating the
symptoms rather than suggesting a solution.  I'm really at a loss here
on how to properly deal with this.

The dragging noise happened again this morning and I applied the
e-brake slightly and did not hear any change in the noise (I was
hesitant to apply it too much though).  What is odd is that I have to
back out of a parking stall and I don't hear it when I am going
backwards to back out, only when I am out and move forward, and again,
I only hear the noise for a short time until I get above 5-10 mph.
Jim Warman - 16 Nov 2006 03:22 GMT
Well, I will stand "somewhat" corrected..... You must realize, though, that
I am present (far too many times) with a customer request to do one thing or
another.... even though it is readily apparent that what they ask will not
affect their concern...

With the information you have added, I will take it a step further.... once
we see that there is an abnormal condition, such as the evidence of
overheating that you state, it is important that the tech doesn't simply
replace parts in the manner that you indicate... the root cause of the
concern needs to be established otherwise it will simply manifest itself
again. Stiff/sticking caliper pins are easy to discover.... retracting the
caliper pistons would show any binding (if the caliper isn't leaking or
binding or otherwise obviously damaged, why would we replace it?).

When faced with a brake that is obviously overheated, the concientious tech
will do some testing to try to find out why.... Something as simple as
applying the brake hard while still on the hoist and then giving the suspect
wheel(s) a spin by hand immediately after can be quite telling...  Any brake
work demands a comprehensive post repair road test.... if signs of
overheating were seen at the time of the repair, it would be a simple matter
to hand check each wheel to compare apparent temps with each other... all of
this should be a no-brainer for the tech....

FWIW, in your case (no matter how the concern is expressed), all that is
happening is someone is treating the symptoms and not treating the
"disease"....

> :> Bob:
> :>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> backwards to back out, only when I am out and move forward, and again,
> I only hear the noise for a short time until I get above 5-10 mph.
Bob - 16 Nov 2006 14:42 GMT
:Well, I will stand "somewhat" corrected..... You must realize, though, that
:I am present (far too many times) with a customer request to do one thing or
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
:happening is someone is treating the symptoms and not treating the
:"disease"....

And I could not agree more...

Bob
carbide@egine.com - 16 Nov 2006 03:56 GMT
> :> Bob:
> :>
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> backwards to back out, only when I am out and move forward, and again,
> I only hear the noise for a short time until I get above 5-10 mph.

That's interesting- drum brakes do work better in the forward direction
than in reverse. I think your mechanic really needs to rotate that
wheel by hand to figure this out.
-Paul
Mikepier - 16 Nov 2006 13:54 GMT
> That's interesting- drum brakes do work better in the forward direction
> than in reverse. I think your mechanic really needs to rotate that
> wheel by hand to figure this out.
> -Paul

Try going in reverse and hitting the parking brake a few times. Thats
how the drum brakes self adjust themsleves.
Another thought, could it be the ABS module? Maybe it is pressurizing
that wheel's line just enough to drag. Try disconnecting the fuse for
the ABS and see if it still drags.
brad - 18 Nov 2006 17:44 GMT
Sounds to me like it might be a pinched brake line...

When you apply the brake it works but doesn't allow the pressure to release

>> That's interesting- drum brakes do work better in the forward direction
>> than in reverse. I think your mechanic really needs to rotate that
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> that wheel's line just enough to drag. Try disconnecting the fuse for
> the ABS and see if it still drags.
Bob - 19 Nov 2006 00:17 GMT
:Sounds to me like it might be a pinched brake line...
:
:When you apply the brake it works but doesn't allow the pressure to release

Thanks.  I think I have it narrowed down to the e-brake because if I
gently apply the e-brake while hearing the dragging noise, the same
sort of dragging noise gets louder (as you would certainly expect) but
from both rear wheels instead of just the right rear.  Then when I
release the e-brake, the noise goes away.

I'm still finding it odd that the noise only seems to occur after the
car has sat for a while, such as overnight, and not in the middle of
the day.

:>> That's interesting- drum brakes do work better in the forward direction
:>> than in reverse. I think your mechanic really needs to rotate that
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
:> that wheel's line just enough to drag. Try disconnecting the fuse for
:> the ABS and see if it still drags.
carbide@egine.com - 19 Nov 2006 00:47 GMT
> :Sounds to me like it might be a pinched brake line...
> :
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> car has sat for a while, such as overnight, and not in the middle of
> the day.

One possibility is that a little rust forms overnight, which is
polished off after you drive a short distance. I was noticing visible
rust on the discs of my Explorer lately. It's been raining a lot, and I
park it outside.  Parking brakes have even been known to stick to the
drum if left set overnight in wet conditions. Driving away pops 'em
loose.

So what you need is to have the star wheel adjustment for that wheel
loosened a bit. See if that makes a difference.
-Paul
carbide@egine.com - 14 Nov 2006 19:42 GMT
> A little over 4 months ago I took my '05 XLT back to the dealer I
> bought it used from because the right rear brake was occaisionally
> dragging while starting out or very slowly creeping in traffic or at a
> stop light. They said they did not find anything wrong and replaced
> both rear pads and rotors.

Sounds like you've zeroed in on the right rear. I was initially
thinking it might be the parking brake, which is a separate drum brake
inside the rotor. The rotor is shaped like a hat, with the brim being
the disc brake, and the head portion of the "hat" being the drum.  But
you say you don't use the  parking brake, so it doesn't seem likely to
be the cause.

Well, they replaced everything except the part I would suspect- the
caliper. If that is sticking, it could cause your problem.
-Paul
Bob - 14 Nov 2006 19:51 GMT
:> A little over 4 months ago I took my '05 XLT back to the dealer I
:> bought it used from because the right rear brake was occaisionally
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
:caliper. If that is sticking, it could cause your problem.
:-Paul

Thanks Paul.  You did not include it but in my original message I go on
to say that I took it back to the dealer last week and they did replace
the right rear caliper this time. But since then I have heard the
dragging on at least 3 occasions, each time when the car has not been
driven for a while, such as first thing in the morning, and the
dragging noise stops as soon as I get above about 5-10 mph.
carbide@egine.com - 14 Nov 2006 20:32 GMT
> Thanks Paul.  You did not include it but in my original message I go on
> to say that I took it back to the dealer last week and they did replace
> the right rear caliper this time. But since then I have heard the
> dragging on at least 3 occasions, each time when the car has not been
> driven for a while, such as first thing in the morning, and the
> dragging noise stops as soon as I get above about 5-10 mph.

Oh, sorry, I missed the bit about replacing the caliper too. So that
was essentially everything EXCEPT the parking brake.  You could try
this- pull away slowly and push the parking brake on a bit while
listening to the dragging noise, then release the parking brake. See if
that makes the sound change.  From that you should be able to get some
idea if it is the parking brake dragging.  Each parking brake has a
star wheel to adjust it which is accessed thru a hole in the backing
plate, possibly the right one is too tight. When you have them worked
on again, the mechanic could also jack it up and rotate the wheel by
hand, listening for the dragging noise and zero in on the cause that
way.

This is a strange one.
-Paul
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.