There is a sensor at each wheel which makes a pulse each time the teeth
mounted to the hub line up with it. The ABS computer compares the time
between pulses at each wheel to see if one is skidding and shifts the
braking power to the other wheels. If you can tell which wheel is NOT
braking, that's the one to look at first. A couple of possibilities
come to mind-

* the wire going to one of the sensors may be bad, so that when you
stretch it by turning sharply the ABS computer thinks that wheel is not
turning and activates the ABS.

* your front wheel bearings may be bad, making them loose so they don't
keep the teeth properly lined up with the sensor.

You should get this fixed ASAP or disable the ABS. It could cause real
problems if it malfunctions at a critical time.
-Paul

Just wanted to offer my experience here as well

I had a similar problem (that I initially attributed to ABS -which was
'incorrect' in a sense) that only existed when I was braking while
executing a left turn at very low speeds. [EG: coming to a stop while
turning left into a parking space.]

The previous owner obviously was financially limited, or VERY
negligent...At any rate, I had already replaced the brakes. Also
replaced the wheel bearings, and the brake line on the left front that
was cracked (thinking that maybe the was a "pressure bulge" in the
line that would exist only when the brakes were applied, but not
enough to burst the actual line. < as suggested by a mechanic.)

I had done the calipers since the left side in particular was TOTALLY
crispy. (-the piston had turned pink and white from such extreme heat,
and actually cracked in half.) This should have been a clue in
itself... but I overlooked this in the diagmosing process since I had
SO much going with this truck at that point. Oi. Hindsight's 20/20.

At any rate, the truck would stop fine when driving forward (straight)
and also be fine while braking and making a right...but try and make a
left turn into a parking spot, or coming to any stop while the wheels
were turned to the left = pulsing. But only once in awhile...(which
got more frequent eventually, allowing more accurate troubleshooting,
finally.)

All of the above was done at the same time (brake pads, calipers,
bearings, brake line), but the 'pusling' still existed. I started to
head into the ABS system but then thought further about it...and
realized that I completely overlooked the rotor.
No I didn't have them turned, even though the piston was "cooked" on
the left side, oddly enough, there was no scarring/wear evidenced on
either the right or left sides. Obviously this was an error in
judgement. *sigh*

All of my other vehicles, I've had always showed "obvious" wear, and
it was easy to tell that they needed to be turned... so the *one time*
I assume they didn't need to be turned, bit me in the a.s. -go figure.
LOL

The fix (for me)?? Replace the rotor on the left (driver's  side).
Seems the extreme heat from the bad caliper had warped it (duh). lol

Moral of the story for me? If you're replacing brakes, ALWAYS have the
rotors turned -> no matter HOW GOOD they look.
At least it would have saved me a week's worth of "hunting" for the
answer that had already slapped me in the face as plain as day.

GL with yours, and let us know how it turns out :)