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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Explorer / December 2006stalling at lights...intermittently
I have a 1995 Explorer 6-cyl automatic with ~110K miles. Truck usually starts and runs fine. Normal starting procedure is just to turn the key without depressing accelerator and she fires right up, bingo. However, on the rare occasion, with no apparent correlation to either a hot or cold engine, when I start the engine it doesn't quite "hit" and will immediately stall or, more appropriately, not start. The engine will start no problem on the second try, but I have to use the accelerator to keep the engine running. And then, for quite some time afterwards, I have to keep the accelerator partially depressed when stopping or stopped at a light or stop sign or the engine will stall. Normally, when approaching a stop the rpm hovers at near 1K (normal), but when this stalling behavior is happening the rpm goes to near zero whenever I release the accelerator. I'm hoping someone can tell me what causes this and what 99-cent part :-) I need to replace. thanks in advance! Classic symptoms of the IAC valve acting up. Do a search and you'll see it's an easy fix. Basically you just have to remove it, clean it out, and put it back in. If that does not fix it, you might need a new one considering your truck is almost 12 years old. Just to let you know, it's not a 99 cent part, but you won't go bankrupt either buying a new one. Thanks much! > Classic symptoms of the IAC valve acting up. Do a search and you'll see > it's an easy fix. Basically you just have to remove it, clean it out, > and put it back in. If that does not fix it, you might need a new one > considering your truck is almost 12 years old. > Just to let you know, it's not a 99 cent part, but you won't go > bankrupt either buying a new one. I agree that it is the IAC valve. That's a two-bolt disassembly. My '97 Limited was acting exactly that way and whistling too. I found cleaning procedures after a search for "IAC" in the board. Essentially, you spray the insides with carb cleaner until no more soot can get blasted out and then very minimal WD40. I discovered that while the problem goes away, it comes right back in a few weeks especially when running in hot weather. I am in Manila where it is an average of 94 to 98 deg F daily. When it finally got down to not responding to the cleaning, I replaced it. The Motorcraft part cost $100. Should be cheaper in the states. Thanks much! I'll see how much it costs in Miami, which is a bit like Manilla. We really like it here...and it's so close to the United States! > I agree that it is the IAC valve. That's a two-bolt disassembly. My '97 > Limited was acting exactly that way and whistling too. I found cleaning [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > replaced it. The Motorcraft part cost $100. Should be cheaper in the > states. >...and it's so close to the United > States! Better than that, Miami is in the United States! > >...and it's so close to the United States! > > > Better than that, Miami is in the United States! I'm pretty sure it was said/typed in jest... (Even though TBW's from the Hanging Chad State.) The Ranger Hello, just FYI, thought I'd add that if the IAC repair does not help (I had a very similar problem...stalling at lights/ in parking lots and occasional trouble starting...and replacement of the IAC didn't help). Turned out to be the EGR assembly. The flying-saucer shaped canister and a tube had tiny rust holes. It was throwing a code, indicating a lean condition. Is your check engine light on? > > >...and it's so close to the United States! > > > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > The Ranger |
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