Hi Jim, thanks for responding!  Which "right" was what I wondered,
too, as I read the manual, but I figured it meant towards the
passenger side.  Also, the steering shaft input kinda blocks the whole
thing from going at all towards the passenger side.

I'm limited in how much I can rotate it because the oil pan is in the
way.  If I rotate it as far as I can, and then slide it, I can move it
an inch or two, but then it gets stuck in the frame at a funny angle.
The big mounting bosses keep getting in the way.  I can't seem to get
any room anywhere to get a better angle, and I need to got several
more inches before there's any hope of angling it out.

And yes, I did secure the steering wheel!  I just buckled the seat
belt through it....

Thanks for your help,
Eric

(P.S. - I'll be out of town for a week, so I might not be able to
check back and respond.  But I appreciate any ideas!)

Unfortunately, in order to get the new rack back in I had to remove
the inner tie-rod and bellows, just as I did to get the old one out.
Also, the assembly came with the other hydraulic lines integral to the
rack already installed.  I'd removed these lines from the old one,
which made it easier to get out.  Plus, I didn't much care what
happened to the old one, since I was replacing it.  But since the new
one had these lines on it, and I didn't want to mess it up, I ended up
taking a couple more parts off the car -- the power steering return
hose (which I had previously just disconnected from the cooler and
pushed out of the way) and one of the brackets that retains the
starter cable.  After that, the new rack went in pretty easily.

Since I had to take off the non-reusable clamp that held on the
bellows, I just used a couple cable ties to secure it back on.  The
inner tie rod I just tried to torque back on to about the same as I
felt it took to get it off.

Oh, heh, and I almost had the thing completely back together before I
remembered to reconnect the steering column!  So I had to remove the
rack mounting bolts again, but fortunately that was it.  Otherwise,
getting everything back together was a lot easier than taking it
apart.  Stretching the teflon seals was weird.  I was sure they would
break, but of course they didn't.  The best way I found to do it was
to pull them down over a needle-nose pliers.

Oh, and one other thing I almost forgot!!!  There was an obscure
instruction for installing the new rack that said that if the system
was equipped with a check valve, it needed to be transferred over from
the old part.  I didn't know what they were talking about, so figured
my system didn't have it, until I started trying to figure out how all
the seals were supposed to go on (which I decided was not like the
original ones were installed...).  Anyway, I was staring into the
inlet port of the old rack, when it struck me that there was a funny
thing down in there.  After a few minutes, it finally "clicked" -- the
valve!  Boy, was I glad that I hadn't either returned the rack yet
(which I was planning to do at the same time I got the new one, since
there is a $130 core charge) or put the hoses on yet, which would have
meant that I would need to buy a new seal kit!!!  The valve and a
little retainer ring came out without too much effort.  I used a pair
of skinny needle-nose pliers.  The retainer I mostly turned out sort
of like a screw.  For the valve, I kind of pushed open the valve a
little and tried to carefully grab the edge without messing it up too
much.  Of course, by this time the new rack was already on the car, so
I had to install them without seeing exactly what I was doing, but I
think it went OK.

I flushed the system (almost according to the directions.....) and did
my best to bleed it.  I'm not at all sure I got all the air out, since
after turning the wheel back and forth about a million times it still
made a gurgling sound.  But when I cranked the engine up, it seemed to
work OK, and no leaks!!

But all is not over -- I took it for a test drive, and the steering
pulsates a lot when turning.  Mostly when going slowly, but I guess
that's when the most assist is required.  So, I'm guessing either a)
there's still air in the system; or b) I need a new pump, since the
old one might have been run too long with low fluid.  Any ideas there,
anyone?