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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Explorer / September 2007lots o crankin before starting
I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quite some time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before the engine starts. When it does starts it sometimes stumbles until I press the gas pedal once or twice. After that it idles and runs fine. The cranking is fast, not slow like with a battery that's going bad. It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine hot or cold (at least as cold as it can get here in Phoenix). Since the problem started I've replaced the battery (which WAS going bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to look next? > I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quite some > time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before the engine [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to look > next? Hi Jerry, take a look at this link and see if your IAC could be your problem. Steve http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/170/article/Ford_Explorer_IAC_Fix.html >> I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quite some >> time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before the engine [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/170/article/Ford_Explorer_IAC_Fix.html Thanks for the pointer. It doesn't really describe my problem, though. Mine always starts. Sometimes it idles fine immediately and sometimes it's rough until I press the gas pedal once or twice. After that it idles and runs fine until the next start. It sounds to me like you have a leak in your fuel system or bad check valve in the fuel pump. Try this: Before you actually engage the starter, switch the truck from off to run about 5 times, pausing at run for a couple of seconds each time. If the truck then starts fine, most likely you have a fuel system problem - I'd bet on the check valve in the fuel pump. If you get a lot of black smoke when the vehicle first starts, then I'd guess you have a leaky injector. A mechanic with a fuel pressure gauge can diagnosis this problem in two minutes. Ed > I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quite > some time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where > to look next? I think you hit it. I followed your on/off/on/off... procedure and it started right up, no visible smoke. So it sounds like the check valve. How hard is it to change and where is it located? > It sounds to me like you have a leak in your fuel system or bad check > valve in the fuel pump. Try this: [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where >> to look next? >I think you hit it. I followed your on/off/on/off... procedure and it >started right up, no visible smoke. So it sounds like the check valve. > > How hard is it to change and where is it located? It is part of the fuel pump. I am pretty sure you will have to drop the tank to replace the pump. Check with a trusted mechanic or the Ford dealer. Ed >> It sounds to me like you have a leak in your fuel system or bad check >> valve in the fuel pump. Try this: [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >>> bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to >>> look next? When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? > I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quite some > time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before the engine [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to > look next? Probably not a bad fuel filter, since doing what C.E. White posted seemed to cure the problem. I agree with C.E. White that the fuel pump is most likely the problem. I would take a fuel pressure reading after car sits overnight, and another one after it starts. If fuel pressure is low or zero before starting and ok while it runs, look for a bad fuel pump check valve. A bad fuel filter in my experience usually causes a high speed miss, not a no start situation. I suppose a completely clogged fuel filter would cause a no start situation, but I have never seen it and you would have the high speed miss well before that happens. I am not sure if you have to drop the tank to change or access the fuel pump, but I think so. Not an impossible job for a do it yourselfer, but kind of a pain in the a.s. Strongly suggest taking it to a mechanic for a fuel pressure check (or buy a fuel pressure gauge) and if vechile needs new pump, let mechanic do it. It is so much easier if you can get the car on a lift is main reason I say this. SF > When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to look >> next? I think taking it in is probably the best idea: 1. he can diagnose for sure if it's a pressure problem. If not he will, hopefully, be able to diagnose it. 2. any talk of removing the tank puts it out of my comfort zone 3. he can change the fuel filter at the same time as it's probably time Thanks for the input. > Probably not a bad fuel filter, since doing what C.E. White posted seemed to > cure the problem. I agree with C.E. White that the fuel pump is most likely [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >>> and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to look >>> next? I was just thinking about that. I believe the answer is- never. > When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to >> look next? >I was just thinking about that. I believe the answer is- never. Well if nothing else this make the pump work harder. With that kind of mileage you should have replaced it at least 4 times. Ed >> When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >>> bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to >>> look next? What I think is happening and the reason I asked about the filter: With a clogged filter, the pump will have a harder time pressurizing the fuel rail etc. thus requiring more time to do so. Once pressurized, normally the pump will be able to keep up unless the filter is so clogged that the car will starve when there is high fuel consumption (high speed, full throttle) The reason why the turning on and off works is because every time you do so, the pump energizes for a few seconds thus allowing the system to reach the working pressure. Go for the filter before you do anything else. Turn the car on and remove the fuel pump relay, let the car die, this to release the fuel pump pressure. Then replace the fuel filter. Good luck! > I was just thinking about that. I believe the answer is- never. > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >>> bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to >>> look next? Finally went back through my records and found that I did have the F/F replaced about a year (8K miles) ago when I had some other work done. I remembered having the other stuff done and forgot the filter. So we're probably back to check valve. After a number of stops today I can say that if it sits for 10 or 15 minutes it still start right away. An hour requires some extra cranking. An on/off or two and it always starts right away. I'm working on getting the fuel level down and will probably take it in on Friday. > What I think is happening and the reason I asked about the filter: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Good luck! > GUEST wrote > I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quit some > time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before th engine > starts. When it does starts it sometimes stumbles until I press th gas > pedal once or twice. After that it idles and runs fine. Th cranking is > fast, not slow like with a battery that's going bad. It doesn' seem to > matter whether the engine hot or cold (at least as cold as it ca get > here in Phoenix) > > Since the problem started I've replaced the battery (which WA going > bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on wher to > look next Hello, I have a 99 Limited which I finishe rebuilding in February. It had had an issue like that since about th third week that I started it Mine turned out to be the fuel pump "assembly", whic includes the pump, regulator, and two rubber hoses. I believe tha one of the hoses was leaking pressure I hunted for a vacuum leak for a long time. The truck was drivable bu had less power than it should, plus the key on, key off three times t start it. I finally checked the pressure last month, I had 55psi a idle, and it dropped to 50psi with some throttle I bought an eBay pump assembly for $38 total, and dropped the tank t swap it in. I have 62psi now, and no drop in pressure with an throttle. I noticed a slight slit in the side of one of my old fue pump rubber lines, that likely was my trouble The pump is over $100 new, the regulator was $75 or more, and th hoses are high pressure injection type. I recommend that you test th fuel pressure, and plan for any of the three items to be the problem I didn't want to pull the tank out and not be ready with a differen pump, regulator, and hoses. Thus I got a whole different assembly Good luck Had a similar problem with my 2000 5.0 V8. Dealer replaced fuel pump. Fortunately, I had extended warranty. > GUEST wrote: > I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quite some > time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before the engine > starts. When it does starts it sometimes stumbles until I press the gas > pedal once or twice. After that it idles and runs fine. The cranking is > fast, not slow like with a battery that's going bad. It doesn't seem to > matter whether the engine hot or cold (at least as cold as it can get > here in Phoenix). > > Since the problem started I've replaced the battery (which WAS going > bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on where to > look next? Hello, I have a 99 Limited which I finished rebuilding in February. It had had an issue like that since about the third week that I started it. Mine turned out to be the fuel pump "assembly", which includes the pump, regulator, and two rubber hoses. I believe that one of the hoses was leaking pressure. I hunted for a vacuum leak for a long time. The truck was drivable but had less power than it should, plus the key on, key off three times to start it. I finally checked the pressure last month, I had 55psi at idle, and it dropped to 50psi with some throttle. I bought an eBay pump assembly for $38 total, and dropped the tank to swap it in. I have 62psi now, and no drop in pressure with any throttle. I noticed a slight slit in the side of one of my old fuel pump rubber lines, that likely was my trouble. The pump is over $100 new, the regulator was $75 or more, and the hoses are high pressure injection type. I recommend that you test the fuel pressure, and plan for any of the three items to be the problem. I didn't want to pull the tank out and not be ready with a different pump, regulator, and hoses. Thus I got a whole different assembly. Good luck, > GUEST wrote > I've got a 99 XLT with 4.0L SOHC engine with 137K miles. For quit some > time now it takes several seconds or more of cranking before th engine > starts. When it does starts it sometimes stumbles until I press th gas > pedal once or twice. After that it idles and runs fine. Th cranking is > fast, not slow like with a battery that's going bad. It doesn' seem to > matter whether the engine hot or cold (at least as cold as it ca get > here in Phoenix) > > Since the problem started I've replaced the battery (which WA going > bad) and the plugs and wires. No change. Any suggestions on wher to > look next That sounds less like a fuel pump or regulator but do have them start with a fuel pressure test. Good luck |
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