I know, I know....

91 XLT 4X4

189,000 total miles

Rick
--
Computer recommends - Hard drinking calypso poet

Even for very dusty or muddy conditions this sounds a bit much (you're not a
"two-hoofer" are you?).

In the past I have used many brands including Raybestos and Wagner with good
results. Most manufacturers have a cheapy, bargain line to attract the
economy shopper.... stay away from these. A good metallic pad should offer
good service life but remember that harder pads cost more and can wear the
rotors more quickly. I still prefer the Motorcraft Premium pads..... they
usually come with the necessaary hardware.

Other areas to consider.... rotor finish and thickness - rotors should have
a non-directional finish and be very smooth (anything else is just a big
rotary file) - they should also be thicker than minimum, the thicker the
better. The rotor handles the same heat load (measured in BTUs) whether it
is thin or thick..... ergo, thin rotors will reach a higher temperature more
quickly since there isn't as much metal to handle the heat load.

Caliper and pad mounting.... pads should be tight enough to not rattle
(causing a squeak later on) and caliper slides should be clean and
lubricated with caliper slide grease (sorry, no part number but it is also a
die-electric compound). Caliper pistons that are sticky in their bores can
also be a problem.

Odd things that can cause grief include faulty brake hoses (GM had a rash of
them on the pick ups around the early '90s) that can hold pressure on the
caliper for too long - also, an improperly adjusted master cylinder pushrod
can hold front brake pressure. Two or three years ago, I flushed the brakes
on my (then fairly "new to me") '79 Yamaha..... the old fluid came out like
molasses.....

Your driving style can do a lot, too. Lift off the throttle early and apply
the brakes gently, designing the stop to keep the same gentle pressure on
the pedal through the whole manoeuver. High pedal pressures equal high pad
wear.

HTH.

Jim Warman
mechanic@telusplanet.net

Thanks Jim and John for your responses.

"Two-hoofer" refers to riding the brake pedal while driving?

Primary driver is my wife, while she is cautious, I don't believe that she
rides the brakes, or uses the brakes in any unusual way... But aftermarket
mfrs have been supplying the hardware. I'll take your pad recommendations
with me.

I'm suspecting that the rear shoes (replaced 28,000 ago) are not showing the
wear like the fronts are. I imagine there is some sort of proportioning
valve that divides the braking capability between front and rear. How is
this checked for proper operation? I'm thinking that the fronts are being
asked to perform the majority of the braking. This could lead to faster
brake wear. No?

Rick
--
Computer recommends - Hard drinking calypso poet