I you can live without it, forget it!

If sorry!

do your self the favor and pay someone else to do it, its an absolute c.nt
of a job.

I have done it in an EF, its a bastard of a job and $650 is too bad
for this job.

DIY costs -

Evap is about $85 trade from memory.
If you want the Evap warrented, a new condensor is required - $45
Complete regas about $135.
Possibly coolant about - $20 or so.
Carton of beer - $25
Bandaids for knuckles - $3.85
Cheerleaders Vid

Then an L shaped Phillips head screwdriver to remove plastic trim
under windscreen.
Oversized torx driver (size 45 iirc) to remove steering wheel.

Basic instructions -

Disconnect battery,
This is your first oppertuninty to have a few beers -
wait 1/2 hour and remove airbag, remove steering wheel - slakcken bolt
but don't remove completely, bash crap out of rear of steering wheel
until it frees, unplug horn/CC wiring then bolt/wheel.
remove dash facia surround and center console.
drop steering column.
Beer - use the drink holder in the center console to locate it.
Note, you may be able to get the dash out without removing wheel, try
extending the ajustment of wheel to full out position, undoing the
bolts under dash and dropping column - steering wheel shoud rest on
drivers seat. Remove glovebox - dead easy, grab a beer.

There are now various wiring looms you will need to unplug, pretty
sure you have to remove both kick panels and EEC, main vacuum line
plug and manual heater cable.
Remove plastic panel below window and there are a bunch of bolts
revealed, remove em.
Check beer, if its below quarter full, fill her up.
Then basically you will find the complete dash is held in by 4 mount
points iirc, one either side of the dash and one either side of the
trans tunnel, remove the bolts and you should find the complete dash
assy lifts up, take it out of the passenger door (ensure it opens
fully if in a garage).

Major milestone and well worth another tube or 2.

Under bonnet time and you need to work on the passenger side of the
firewall, this is were you will need the bandaids as its tight as a
nuns ehem   in there.
Drain a bit of coolant.
Remove the 2 heater hoses at the firewall - if the original Ford
bastard clamps are still there, use a pair of pliers to open them,
rotate hose to free it up and try to slowly work it off the
connection, but be gentle as you don't want to crack the heater core,
these 2 hoses are not easy to remove, use foul language at every
opportunity.
Now remove the TX valve, this is the aluminium block to the right of
the heater hoses - note you are now opening up the sealed A/C system
so keep all joints etc clean, there won't be any gas left to escape
neither.

Now all around the firewall you will see small nuts, these hold the
heater box to the F/W, undo em all then go inside the car and try
pulling the box off, if youve got all the nuts, a bit of persuasion
will remove it, ie no need for swearing. Just be careful not to spill
coolant out of the heater core.

Open the box up, and throw the new evap in.

While the thing is in bits, check the operation of the recirc motor,
its located between the air intake tube and RHS of the car, more than
likely the plastic rod is broken at the top, I fangled mine up - glued
it initially, then drilled/screwed it together.

Half time,
grab some more alcholic beverages and what the cheerleaders vid.

As the manual says, reinstall is reversal of removal.

What I did was put it all back together, reinstal the TX valve
loosely, give it the the regasser, have him replace the 4 seals in the
valve and seal it, +  replaced the condensor + new seals for that.
This way I couldn't be blamed for any leaks and the evap warranty
stood.