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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Falcon / April 2004lead replacement lubrication for Ford XY
Hi! Looks like even LRP is getting scarce in Sydney. Have a Ford XY (1971) 6 cyl. 250 engine - just an old bomb that keeps on truckin'. Apart from hardening the valve seats (a thought? I suppose) what do folks recommend re management. Does not look so cheap buying the capsules available in my local (oil for 20 litres of fuel, $2.50 - they have to be kidding, they are getting capsules for 250 litres which might be on the reasonable side). Any suggestions for a cheaper alternative re oil (I have half a gallon left of Reddex (upper cylinder lube that absurd claims were made for in the ads - I used it to soak heads and free up valves in trucks many years ago, my tin is about 20 years old, oil looks ok!) And, what fuel to put in? Super was what octane? Please remind me. And do I go up a bit or down to ordinary unleaded and tune differently (it goes like a dog with it if you just put some in). Hey i own a 1872 escort and runs not bad on ulp with teh stuff i buy from Mobil, hasnt missed a beat and every now and then i even fill her up on the other stuff, dosnt seem to cause any damage Peter > Hi! > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > go up a bit or down to ordinary unleaded and tune differently (it goes like > a dog with it if you just put some in). funny that, I think the escort would of been a bit out of place with all the horse drawn carriages around in 1872. > Hey i own a 1872 escort and runs not bad on ulp with teh stuff i buy from > Mobil, hasnt missed a beat and every now and then i even fill her up on the [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > like > > a dog with it if you just put some in). > Hey i own a 1872 escort and runs not bad on ulp with teh stuff i buy from > Mobil, hasnt missed a beat and every now and then i even fill her up on the > other stuff, dosnt seem to cause any damage > > Peter Cast iron heads will eventually need work if run on gas or ULP. My cleveland (supposed to be higher nickel-content) slowly lost compression as the valves progressively pocketted into their seats. Took about 20,000ks over 3 years with an engine which had done 200,000 anyway. This engine used oil (big puff of blue smoke on start-up) and the theory that the layer of carbon would protect the seats,...didn't work. Jason Anyone have any suggestions? Any thoughts about my request for info on octane... (Thanks Peter, yours is use ULP and to buy something from Mobil and fill it up 'with other stuff' and everything will be ok. Any other suggestions? Anyone out there actually using honest old cars or are you all into the latest gear :) > From: chart43 <chart43@optusnet.com.au> > Newsgroups: alt.ford.falcon [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > go up a bit or down to ordinary unleaded and tune differently (it goes like > a dog with it if you just put some in). > Anyone have any suggestions? Any thoughts about my request for info on > octane... If it were my car, I'd try running it on good old "regular" unleaded. If it pings, then you might have to try Optimax or some other "premium" type. Unleaded fuel use will cause valve seat recession eventually, and *none* of the upper cylinder lubricants will do anything to prevent that in my experience. The only way around it is to remove the cylinder head and have hardened valve seat inserts fitted, and you might as well drive the thing and get what's left out of the head before you do. You won't permanently screw anything up by doing so... Regards, Noddy. I agree with Noddy. I used to own a 1980 Kingswood. When it had a 202 in it I ran nothing but unlead. I did 100,000k's with it without an issue. I later sold the engine and fitted a V8. You'd probably get 200,000+k's before any issue presents. Brenden > > Anyone have any suggestions? Any thoughts about my request for info on > > octane... [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Regards, > Noddy. Been doing the same in the Chev in the boat for 4 years (1000 hours running). I have just dismantled it and the valve seats look fine. If octane rating is a problem then run Optimax. Pat. > I agree with Noddy. > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Regards, > > Noddy. Noddy, I thought that the preparations they are selling to add by hand is the same or similar to the stuff they actually put in the (premixed) LRP fuels (after lead was banned)? I'm probably going to try the premium and advance the spark a bit (to 9 degrees rather than 6) and use some upper cylinder lube... Brenden, that is very encouraging that you had no trouble for 200000 k a without any lube extra and using unleaded (my car goes like a dog on unleaded, I might be able to retard the spark a bit for it to at least be rid of pinging... if I use just unleaded. I have the 250 engine. I understand that thee are at least 2 250 engines for the XY and one is 8.x:1 and the other is 9.x:1 compression. I must look at my engine number, the J is one thing the L is another. Will look it up. Pat, optimax eh? I'll look into it, thanks innocent43 (formerly, what spam that attracted!) > From: "Noddy" <dg4163@tpg.com.au> > Newsgroups: alt.ford.falcon [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Regards, > Noddy. > Noddy, I thought that the preparations they are selling to add by hand is > the same or similar to the stuff they actually put in the (premixed) LRP > fuels (after lead was banned)? I'm probably going to try the premium and > advance the spark a bit (to 9 degrees rather than 6) and use some upper > cylinder lube... It may very well be, as I have no idea. All I *do* know is that while there is evidence to suggest that running most older cast iron head engines on unleaded fuel is detrimental to the valve seat area over a sustained period, there is no evidence to suggest that any product specifically marketed to combat this problem actually does anything other than prey on people's ignorance and lighten their wallets :) The short answer is that your car is likely to last just as long just by running unleaded with nothing else, than it will by wasting money using any additional "protection" products, and you'd be far better off saving the cash for the valve seat insert job you'll eventually need. Regards, Noddy.
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