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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Falcon / December 20041995 NF Fairlane - electric window $307 Regulator (inc Motor)!!!!!!!
I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG members. Cost of parts is incredible!!!!!! 1995 NF Fairlane - electric window (drivers side front) Regulator (inc Motor) is $307!!!!!!! Anyone know where to get this cheaper?? TIA Martin ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I've got has failed. Went "clunk" when winding up. Motor still seems to drive but no window movement. Widow dropped down. I've now taped it in position till repair. What do you think "Broke"? How much for repair? Is it a job for me (handyman) or Ford or .... is there a specialist for these type of things (auto elect or auto trim?). Any advice welcomed. I live in Melbourne. Kind Regards, MARTIN ======================================================================== > I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG members. > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > ======================================================================== Wreckers? Parts from a Futura or Fairmont of the same vintage will work also. where ever your getting it from is a rip off, shop around. I paid $230 at a retail outlet, but now I have access to wholesale prices - which justifies the shame of owning Australian owned with the acceptable parts prices.... >I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG members. > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > ======================================================================== > where ever your getting it from is a rip off, > > shop around. I paid $230 at a retail outlet, but now I have access to > wholesale prices - which justifies the shame of owning Australian owned > with the acceptable parts prices.... Australian owned? who am I kidding, Australian made I mean ;) > I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG members. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > TIA Martin Take a look at the mechanism. If its a case of worn-off teeth,..I have seen a mechanic use a welder to build the teeth up again,..the file them into shape,...just a thought. Jason tisnt the case with these units. its always the brittle plastic which the cables hook into that lets go. I have a feeling this may be designed for safety reasons so that the window can break away from the mechanism in an emergency. Its also possible to simply put all your body weight on the window glass on the outside in a downward motion and it will activate this "safety feature". gone are the days of all metal window regulator construction . . >> I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG members. >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Jason I've had this fixed - thanks to all - especially Ziggy. These were the quotes to fix.. Strap Ford - (where I bought this and 32 other Fairlanes) = $465 City Ford - $340 - fix in 1 hour. Aftermarket -part only = $292. I had City Ford fix it. Thanks to all. Martin. ================================================ > I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG > members. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > ======================================================================== OOps - Correction - "Strap Ford - (where I bought this and 2 other Fairlanes) ====================== > I've had this fixed - thanks to all - especially Ziggy. > These were the quotes to fix.. [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >> >> ======================================================================== > OOps - Correction - "Strap Ford - (where I bought this and 2 other > Fairlanes) I was gonna say, having 32 fairlanes, id feel sorry for you - unless they were under warranty or company cars.. at 85,000k's my 1996 nf2 fairlane had; replaced rear right window regulator, front left regulator, timing cover replaced (v8) Welch plugs replaced, already on second radiator (about to get third one, this one leaks from the plastic side tanks im @ 139900K's now) dead maf sensor (just unplugged it, ford want $1500 for it, $695 gets an aftermarket compatible that flows better) lots of other little sh.t too, like an engine pulley seized and snapped my belt, it was ok, I was able to drive at 70km/h with no water pump for 15 minutes and it got me home - if I didn't, I would of left it where it stopped. a/c leaks galore, but that's all fixed now. gone though about 10 brake pedal switches, until I had a relay wired in, that took the load off the shitty little switch and stopped its contacts from burning. ( I do have a trailer, so its acceptable I guess). transmission now flaring between 2nd and 3rd gear shift, surprising since its always had an oversized cooler installed. > I posted the problem listed below and got some good info from NG members. > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > ======================================================================== It sounds like the shaft on the motor has stripped where the gear fits on, the easiest and cheapest way to fix it is to take the motor out and either get someone to do it or do yourself, : You drill a small hole through the gear and the shaft, while the gear is on the shaft, then you use an ordinary nail or some other soft pin, you don't use a hardened pin because if the window jams and the motor keeps going, then you will stuff the motor, I use a nail and if the window jams, then the softer nail beaks and all I have to do is put another nail in. The cost for me when I did it was about 5 cents, get someone to do it might cost about $10 or so.
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