Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Ford / Ford Falcon / July 2005

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Xy restore

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Drewfus - 06 Jul 2005 09:42 GMT
Hi,

I am tired of my beloved XY taking up space in the garage, and am thinking
about spending a few to bring it up to day to day spec.

It is a  Falcon 500, bench seat, manual 3 on tree, 250 engine and I have no
interest in bolting a V8 into it unless someone can assure me that I won't
have to take out a bank loan to fuel it.

Why are you doing this? I hear you say. Well it has come time to get rid of
my XH ute as I am changing careers and need a passenger car. I also need to
"reclaim" the space the old brown beast is taking up in the carport (and I
am worried I may lose it under the bird sh*t from resident animals roosting
in the roof). I love this car and if it is possible, I would like to drive
it again, and it would kill 2 birds with one stone. (Need car/need space)

Questions are:

1: Engine is bone fide original, BUT has been run for 20 minutes in the last
5 years (told you it was taking up space lol) Should I look at rebuilding
it, and if so, how does the EPA/VIC Roads feel about full lead cars when it
comes time to go through the whole re-reg circus thing?

2: Would it be possible to consider a MUCH later engine instead? does this
cause major engineering hassles? Is this just so b##stard expensive that it
would be nuts?

3: In your humble opinions is this just a pipe dream and should I bite the
bullet, and buy something ready to go?

Body is in good nick (had the sills cut and welded when I first bought it.)

Rust spots in bonnet and on the A pillar, passenger side next to screen, and
around the flat area between rear window and boot lid.

Upholstery needs doing, suspension as well (the main reason I stopped
driving it all those years ago)

I have owned the car for 11 years and am the 2nd owner, it is plated october
72, and I am struggling to come to terms with letting it go (although
looking at the list above it's sounding more and more expensive)

Thoughts?

Cheers,

Drew
atec - 06 Jul 2005 09:56 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> interest in bolting a V8 into it unless someone can assure me that I won't
> have to take out a bank loan to fuel it.

 well you could add a later model motor and consider lpg .

> Why are you doing this? I hear you say. Well it has come time to get rid of
> my XH ute as I am changing careers and need a passenger car. I also need to
> "reclaim" the space the old brown beast is taking up in the carport (and I
> am worried I may lose it under the bird sh*t from resident animals roosting
> in the roof). I love this car and if it is possible, I would like to drive
> it again, and it would kill 2 birds with one stone. (Need car/need space)

 can you aford a lean to out the back for the new car ?

> Questions are:
>
> 1: Engine is bone fide original, BUT has been run for 20 minutes in the last
> 5 years (told you it was taking up space lol) Should I look at rebuilding
> it, and if so, how does the EPA/VIC Roads feel about full lead cars when it
> comes time to go through the whole re-reg circus thing?
 does it smoke . drive around the block a few times as a rigi is
getting to be worth somthing ( I paid $1600.00 for my sedan 3 years ago
and its just sitting) now worth considerably more .

> 2: Would it be possible to consider a MUCH later engine instead? does this
> cause major engineering hassles? Is this just so b##stard expensive that it
> would be nuts?
 piss easy and plenty of advice about the place including fordforums ,
you will need a brake upgrade .

> 3: In your humble opinions is this just a pipe dream and should I bite the
> bullet, and buy something ready to go?
 dont know you so cant comment but it is achevable

> Body is in good nick (had the sills cut and welded when I first bought it.)
>
> Rust spots in bonnet and on the A pillar, passenger side next to screen, and
> around the flat area between rear window and boot lid.
 normal , get into it and have it done .

> Upholstery needs doing, suspension as well (the main reason I stopped
> driving it all those years ago)
 as in shocks ?
 or more .

> I have owned the car for 11 years and am the 2nd owner, it is plated october
> 72, and I am struggling to come to terms with letting it go (although
> looking at the list above it's sounding more and more expensive)
 only you can decide , Ill do mine one day , have the 351 and auto ,
one day

> Thoughts?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Drew
Brenden Will - 07 Jul 2005 09:30 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> rebuilding it, and if so, how does the EPA/VIC Roads feel about full lead
> cars when it comes time to go through the whole re-reg circus thing?

They won't have an issue. Just make sure the oils primed before you fire it
up.

> 2: Would it be possible to consider a MUCH later engine instead? does this
> cause major engineering hassles? Is this just so b##stard expensive that
> it would be nuts?

A late model V8 Windsor is a good option believe it or not. Fuel econ and
power. Another option but the loan would be more is to turbo the 250.

> 3: In your humble opinions is this just a pipe dream and should I bite the
> bullet, and buy something ready to go?

$ wise you're better to buy something ready to go but they you can't say you
built it or have pride in it.

> Body is in good nick (had the sills cut and welded when I first bought
> it.)
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Drew

It's definately not cheap. Roughy guestimate restoring and doing the work
yourself is around $5000 inc new interior and paint work with out sourced
rust repair. If you don't do the work? Anywhere from $5000->$40,000. Depends
on what you want. I recommend doing the work yourself.

I have about $35,000 worth of reciepts for my XB parts thats I've now got in
a 2nd chassis, for the past 5 years. For me all I want to do is go fast and
have it look clean. I'm not after a show car although I get people asking me
to enter it all the time?!?! It's miles off from a show car and original.
I'm looking to embark on building a new engine (short motor). Add
$4000->$6000 to my total. For me it's the love of the car and looks you get
in it. I get plenty as I drive mine regularly.
Brenden Will - 07 Jul 2005 09:37 GMT
Belows a link to what I did with my current chassis in 12 weeks in r/w and
rego.

http://users.bigpond.net.au/XB351/restoration.htm

>> Hi,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 68 lines]
> Add $4000->$6000 to my total. For me it's the love of the car and looks
> you get in it. I get plenty as I drive mine regularly.
Brenden Will - 07 Jul 2005 09:43 GMT
Belows a link to what I did with my current chassis in 12 weeks inc r/w and
rego.

http://users.bigpond.net.au/XB351/restoration.htm

>> Hi,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 68 lines]
> Add $4000->$6000 to my total. For me it's the love of the car and looks
> you get in it. I get plenty as I drive mine regularly.
Drewfus - 09 Jul 2005 03:59 GMT
Thanks muchly for the advice,

Funny how you become attached to a big lump of metal isn't it...

Any advice on contemplating such a restore is greatly appreciated, having
never restored ANYTHING let alone my beloved XY!

My figurings are that if I could get away with $5-$7k (which is what I would
intend to spend on a car anyway...wife already has the good car, I just need
transport), I would gain far more enjoyment driving around in the old Falcon
than a clapped out mid 90's rep-pack EL.

It all appears daunting, but not impossible...

Are there any good books etc. re: restoration (given that I am not going for
"concours" just clean and reliable.) I think the main place that I could
fall down is in timelineing...the "I've done 'this' so the next thing to do
is 'this' " screwing up the build sequence could/would add significantly to
the cost....

Thanks again.... going to look at those links that brenden posted right now.

Cheers

Drew :-)

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>
> Drew
Brenden Will - 10 Jul 2005 08:42 GMT
Reliable = see factory manual for car.

Clean = speak with your local paintshop regarding respraying your car. I
suggest 2pak and no acyrlic. Acrylic makes too easy. I'm redoing mine in
2pak when I build a new engine for it.

> Thanks muchly for the advice,
>
[quoted text clipped - 73 lines]
>>
>> Drew
Brenden Will - 10 Jul 2005 14:08 GMT
makes should read "marks"

> Reliable = see factory manual for car.
>
[quoted text clipped - 80 lines]
>>>
>>> Drew

Rate this thread:






 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.