> I had a frightening experiance tonight. My 2000 Wagon (US) would not stop.
> When I lifted my foot off the accelerator the car just kept on going at
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>
> Anybody else had or heard of the same problem?
>> I had a frightening experiance tonight. My 2000 Wagon (US) would not
>> stop. When I lifted my foot off the accelerator the car just kept on
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> Yes. Brief engine racing, but it's only happened to me with the clutch
> in and no load on the engine.
I too have had that experience. US model 2005 ZX3 with an automatic
transmission and a 2 liter engine. The vehicle was appoximately two
months old with 3.5k miles.
While driving on a two lane road in southern Michigan, (early May, cool
evening, light mist), the dash lights and all gauges "flashed" a couple of
times. On the second "flash" of the dash lights I noted all the gauges
going to the max as well.
The Flashing dash lights were not on and off but rather regular
illumination and VERY bright flashes of appoximately a second duration. In
my experience as an engineer I have wittnessed the same during a high
voltage spike. Possibly something in the alt/regulator?
Anyway, I lifted off of the go pedal while the damn thing floored itself.
After about 5 seconds of bumping the gas pedal and then the brake pedal, I
had the presense of mind to simply turn the key off and I then braked to
the side of the road. I turned the key back on, the gauges and all seemed
to zero, except for the eng temp which read actual temp. There was no
repeat of the flashing dash lights and gauges slewing around. It
restarted and ran normally except for the check engine light which was now
on. The ONLY thing that could have taken the gas pedal to the floor was
the cruise control activating to full pull on the throttle body/linkage.
I carefully drove home and in the am took the car back to the dealer where
I explained the problem. I used a loaner car for the three days the
dealer took to recieve and replace the "transmission position sending
unit". That was the only fault the computer returned. I have over 75k
miles on the car now and have not had a return of the same problem.
I have had to replace both rear wheel bearings and three sets of tires in
75k miles. The factory settings on the rear are stupid and guarentee that
the tires will wear out in 20-25k miles. I have had mine set to 0 degree
toe-in with me sitting in the car and the feathering/wear has been reduced
to a more normal pattern. Current tires have over 30k miles and still
have 50-60% tread left. The excessive toe the factory quotes is probably
the cause of the wheel bearing failure as well.
Another issue with the factory toe-in is VERY dangerous. With such a
light car, while driving in weather, it is possible to unload one side of
the car or the other. That is, get one tire to plane on water or slush
and the other side of the car stays planted. When that happens, the tire
on the loaded side of the car, (the side NOT planing) will push against
straight travel and can (did in my case) cause a spin. At the factory
setting (as recieved 2.5 degrees toe-in on both sides!) it shot the rear
end to the right when the right tire unloaded on slush. Compounding that
problem is that on most roads, the big semi's typically have left slight
depressions in the tarmac that collect a bit more water than the crowns.
A small car like the Focus does'nt ride equally in both depressions so the
likelyhood of having equal ammounts of water/slush under both sides of the
car is less than that of an bigger car/truck and increases the likelyhood
of a spin because of the above. Add to that the tires wearing very
rapidly (worn tires plane much more easily than fresh tires) you have a
great recipe for disaster.
Other than the above I am extreemly happy with this vehicle. A bonus for
us BIG guys, 6ft 3in tall is that I actually fit in the damn thing and my
brother, same size can travel with me. Loads of interior room, (Head and
Foot) in the front seat and with the two door entry/egress is not the
twist, bend, lurch activity typical of most small cars-big people matings.
Don't even talk about the rear seats.... My five year old grandson
does'nt fit now, I can't wait until he is ten. lol.
Michael Pardee - 03 Dec 2008 22:32 GMT
>>> I had a frightening experiance tonight. My 2000 Wagon (US) would not
>>> stop. When I lifted my foot off the accelerator the car just kept on
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> Don't even talk about the rear seats.... My five year old grandson
> does'nt fit now, I can't wait until he is ten. lol.
The most common cause of runaway acceleration in modern cars is a bad
throttle position sensor. Volvo had several years of bad TPSs, with nearly
all failing around the 100K mile mark. Eventually they warranteed all the
replacements.
In your case, Michael, I agree about basic electrical problems. Maybe a bad
alternator/regulator, but I would also cast a suspicious eye on the battery
(intermittent open, which often shows up as hesitation to crank on some
mornings) and on the engine ground. Dunno how the Focus engine ground is
done, but it can be checked with a voltmeter between the engine and chassis
with the engine running. Anything over 0.1V is cause for investigation. Even
if the voltage is low the ground can be loose. All of those can occur in a
fairly new car.
Mike
Michael Casey - 04 Dec 2008 03:49 GMT
<<snip>>
> The most common cause of runaway acceleration in modern cars is a bad
> throttle position sensor. Volvo had several years of bad TPSs, with
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>
> Mike
Thanks Mike,
The TPS would only cause the IAC to engauge and while that itself will
cause an elvated idle, what I experienced was the throttle pedal going
all the way to to floor, via, I assume, the cruise control (which was not
in use at the time). At the time I had checked the voltages at the
battery, both pos to ground and ground to ground with a 4 decimal place
digital Fluke and found no difference.
I am assuming at this point that somehow the Regulator spiked with no
subsequent complete failure. Current Alternators in production vehicles
are three phase and typically run in the 75 to 90 volt range. The diode
trio chopps the lower half of each wave and leaves only the positive
pulese's at 120 degrees spacing. The regulator chops at 13 to 14 volts
dc and should not be able to pass a spike let alone any constant voltage
higher than that.
As an Electonic Engineer I am at loss to explain this occurance as was
the factory.
There has been absolutely no re-occurance of the problem since.
Mike