Hi there!
I bought a used Focus, 2001, in early January. Three days after I
purchased it, it started to die due to electrical problems.
Initially, I noticed just a split-second flicker of gauges going
haywire -- the speedometer and temp gauge would max out, the fuel gauge
would bottom out -- but it had no effect on engine performance. Then, a
few seconds later, the gauges would go nuts again, ALL the warning
lights on the dash went on, the digital odometer read all 8s, and the
engine began to stall. Depending on how fast I was going, sometimes
things would kick back in and I could continue driving before the
engine completely stalled out. Most times, though, I was on residential
roads and the engine completely stalled and had to be restarted.
I took it to the shop for electrical diagnosis, and they found nothing.
They told me nothing was wrong with my car. He said he would take it
for a spin and see if he could recreate the problem. Not surprisingly,
he called back and said that there was definitely a problem, but he
didn't know what it was. After "some more fiddling" he found that the
battery was "crap," and thought that replacing it would fix the
problem. He replaced the battery and took it for another drive to see
if that fixed things, and it seemed to.
I was less than convinced, but took it back anyway. I've only driven it
about 50-75mi since then, and it's started having the same problems
again. I took it back to the mechanic to have them test the battery,
thinking maybe there was a problem that was CAUSING a drain on the
battery.. but the battery is fine.
Now they're saying it's the alternator. Meanwhile, at the beginning of
this mess I suggested the alternator, but they said that wasn't
possible due to the fact that my system "kicked back in". They said
that when an alternator goes, it's gone, and that's that. Now the guy I
talked to yesterday is saying he's "seen them come and go."
I've pretty much had it with this car. I worked nights and summers
through college to save up and I paid in cash, and I've already had to
dump $250 into the thing, and I'm still on the first tank of gas!
Has anyone had this problem, or have any idea what it might be??
I think I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow to see if he's
willing to do a trade-in...
Mark Olson - 04 Mar 2006 05:37 GMT
> Hi there!
>
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> I think I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow to see if he's
> willing to do a trade-in...
Why are you blaming the car when it's obvious even from this distance that
your true complaint is that your mechanic didn't nail the diagnosis the
first time yet he's smart enough to continue to get you to pay for the
parts he's replacing as he tries them out? In fact he could have been
correct that the battery was bad but the alternator may also be bad.
Any car can have a problem, the fact that it's a little tricky to find
doesn't mean the car is a lemon, it's nearly always that you don't have a
sufficiently talented mechanic working on it. Most failures, even very
hard to diagnose failures are not due to superbly complex interrelated
causes, they are usually down to a single simple cause that may be a bit
difficult to find. Logic, knowledge, and an ability not to fall in love
with your favorite theory are all hallmarks of a true diagnostician.
Thibaud Taudin Chabot - 04 Mar 2006 15:20 GMT
Mark Olson schreef:
>> Hi there!
>>
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
> difficult to find. Logic, knowledge, and an ability not to fall in love
> with your favorite theory are all hallmarks of a true diagnostician.
how about "no cure no pay"?
sn00p - 06 Mar 2006 18:55 GMT
battery well could have been crap along with the alternator though, just
cause they were done separate from 1 another doesn't make it unnecessary. a
simple load test of the battery can confirm if it's good or bad regardless
of the alternators condition
> Mark Olson schreef:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 58 lines]
>>
> how about "no cure no pay"?
jdiggity - 07 Mar 2006 22:39 GMT
I have had a similar problem with my 2003 ZX3. It's an automatic.
Sometimes if I've just turned on the car and pop it into reverse and
back up quickly, then switch back to drive right away, i get a power
surge similar to what has been described. The gauges max out, the
lights go on and the radio goes up to full volume for just a split
second.
MK - 04 Mar 2006 13:31 GMT
> Hi there!
>
> I bought a used Focus, 2001, in early January. Three days after I
> purchased it, it started to die due to electrical problems.
I had similar issues with the dashboard. There is some info on the UK Ford
Focus forums.
See here: http://www.ffoc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=105418
MK
Gary Avrett - 05 Mar 2006 04:25 GMT
Excerpt from the link below sure sounds plausable to create this problem.
All the problems are down to the cluster not being plugged in properly
> See here: http://www.ffoc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=105418
>
> MK
-=RaOuL=- - 04 Mar 2006 15:54 GMT
> Hi there!
>
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> I think I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow to see if he's
> willing to do a trade-in...
Based on the symptoms, it doesn't make sense to me that it could be the
battery or the alternator. I'd be more inclined to blame an intermittent
high resistance point somewhere in the wiring harness. Maybe some corrosion
in a connector or an intermittent floating ground or something like that...
I've learned the hard way that sometimes a car's wiring is where all the
problems start from. My previous vehicle, a '93 Escort wagon had a habit of
blowing fuses almost at random. It wasn't until the day when the fuse didn't
blow but the wiring overloaded and smoldered that I was able to trace the
problem. It turned out that the point where the wiring went through and into
the hatch had a point where the wiring harness was rubbing against the
sheetmetal of the hatch. After several years of abrasion, the wire's
insulation wore away and would short into the hatch intermittently. Once I
rewired the rear of the car the problem went away.
Another example, and one which is perhaps more applicable to your situation
was in my '87 Mustang. The electric cooling fan wouldn't operate. I did the
usual checks of the fan motor, temp sensor and controller and found that
they were all working as they should. Further diagnosis led to the discovery
that I had a higher than expected resistance in the wiring harness from the
controller (under the dash) to the fan (in the engine compartment). It was
only about 10 or so ohms, as I recall, but it caused enough of a voltage
drop that the fan motor wouldn't initiate. After I rewired that circuit the
fan worked as expected.
I don't know if wiring problems are exclusive to Ford products, or are a
common problem with modern automobiles in general, but it is something of
which I am always checking when I debug a problem...
Good Luck!
-=RaOuL=-
'05 Focus ZX4
Michael Heiming - 04 Mar 2006 18:33 GMT
In alt.autos.ford.focus havensj@gmail.com:
> Hi there!
> I bought a used Focus, 2001, in early January. Three days after I
> purchased it, it started to die due to electrical problems.
> Initially, I noticed just a split-second flicker of gauges going
> haywire -- the speedometer and temp gauge would max out, the fuel gauge
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> engine completely stalled out. Most times, though, I was on residential
> roads and the engine completely stalled and had to be restarted.
Might just be a problem with a flaky VSS? Had no problems on my
Focus, but this seems a frequent problem. If you use
groups.google.com (advanced search) enter this ng name into the
Group box and search for "speed sensor".
You'd better get you car to some Ford dealer who should know
about the problem and how to fix it.
Good luck
BTW
Please try below URL(s) before answering, most people aren't
using a browser here to read/write, this is usenet.
http://www.safalra.com/special/googlegroupsreply
http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google
[..]

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