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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Focus / August 2008

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Focus blower malarkey

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Phone Box - 21 Aug 2008 18:53 GMT
Hi,

   I'm currently doing battle with the resistor pack that allows the blower
to run at different speeds. The Internet is littered with the same problem
whereby the thermal fuse blows. The procedure appears to be, replace the
pollen filter as this affects the cooling ability of the pack and replace
the pack. Has anyone done this and been successful with the facility of
being able to select speeds 1 to 3 over a long period of time? As there are
so many accounts of this, it appears to be less of a coincidence and more of
a design fault.

Previous Focus (V reg zetec, UK) never exhibited this fault, (51 plate TDCI,
UK) is problematic.

Cheers

Peter.
Chris Whelan - 21 Aug 2008 19:00 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Peter.

My Focus is a '99. I've had it from new, replaced the pollen filters at the
correct intervals, and never had to replace the resistor pack.

BTW, the Focus is not the only car that can suffer from this fault.

Chris
Signature

Remove prejudice to reply.

Phone Box - 22 Aug 2008 20:46 GMT
>> Hi,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Chris

Hi,
   I've tried the DIY solution but cannot get the thermal fuses soldered
without them blowing. They should be spot welded as they are at manufacture.
So I've gone to the dealer, bought another one and crossed my fingers.

Cheers

Peter.

> BTW, the Focus is not the only car that can suffer from this fault.
I'm sure a cheap and cheerful solution for them but not me!
Alan - 23 Aug 2008 13:31 GMT
>    I've tried the DIY solution but cannot get the thermal fuses soldered
>without them blowing. They should be spot welded as they are at manufacture.
>So I've gone to the dealer, bought another one and crossed my fingers.

The trick is first to cut off the old fuse leaving behind most of the
connecting lead. Bend these stubs of wire at 90 degrees. Fit the new
fuse between these wires and make a good mechanical joint by bending the
wires as appropriate. Use a _high_ powered soldering iron or gun but
first make sure it's up to full heat. Feed some electrical/electronic
lead/tin solder with integral flux to the tip of the iron to 'wet' it.
Shake off the solder then put the iron on the joint at the same time as
feeding in fresh solder.

I've personally made a repair to two modules[1] in this way and advised
friends on this approach. The modules didn't fail in 5+ years[2] and/or
are still in service without problems years later.

[1] I've seen the same problems on Vauxhall and Citroen blower motor
assemblies.

[2] cars  have been scrapped or sold on  for other reasons

Signature

Alan

news2006 {at} amac {dot} f2s {dot} com

Phone Box - 30 Aug 2008 17:20 GMT
>>    I've tried the DIY solution but cannot get the thermal fuses soldered
>>without them blowing. They should be spot welded as they are at
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> [2] cars  have been scrapped or sold on  for other reasons

New pack has lasted a week. I think I'm OK.
Alan - 21 Aug 2008 20:06 GMT
>Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>Previous Focus (V reg zetec, UK) never exhibited this fault, (51 plate TDCI,
>UK) is problematic.

For information
http://www.amac.f2s.com/Focus1/

Signature

Alan
news2006 {at} amac {dot} f2s {dot} com

Alan - 22 Aug 2008 14:59 GMT
>Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>Previous Focus (V reg zetec, UK) never exhibited this fault, (51 plate TDCI,
>UK) is problematic.

Free air flow may help but on one car I had water had entered the cabin
air intake and the blower motor shaft was getting rusty and binding
slightly. I just put one drop of engine oil on each bearing to free it
up.

Note: don't use wd40 or similar. You will have a supply of readily
available engine oil in the sump - use the dip stick to extract one drop

Signature

Alan
news2006 {at} amac {dot} f2s {dot} com

mark - 24 Aug 2008 05:05 GMT
> Free air flow may help but on one car I had water had entered the cabin
> air intake and the blower motor shaft was getting rusty and binding
> slightly. I just put one drop of engine oil on each bearing to free it up.
>
> Note: don't use wd40 or similar. You will have a supply of readily
> available engine oil in the sump - use the dip stick to extract one drop :

I think you are on the right track.  I replaced my blower motor.  The old
one would work but the fuse got hot enough to smell.  When I took it out, it
looked like it had been exposed to moisture and did not spin very well.

New one works fine and the fuse is a-ok.  I think the blower motor was about
$60.

I
 
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