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joe - 28 Nov 2003 22:06 GMT

I just cant stop thinking about how i can approve myself at the track. I
was thinkin alot about what you people were saying and alot of it makes
sense(i.e the learning how to shift good part). I think over the winter
money is going to allow me to add more stuff to my car...im defintly going
to go the suspension/slick route and practice my "speed" shifting. Here are
some 4 of my better track times(when i didnt miss a shift ;) ) and i was
hoping that by lookin at these times if you could tell me what i can approve
on. And yes...my launches were horrible

Run #1-
60 foot - 2.337
1/8 - 9.428
1/4 - 14.504
MPH - 91.71
My first run up...didnt even do a burnout cause i was afraid of stalling or
hitting someone lol. shifted somewaht fast...i didnt think this was too bad
of a run actually. Used 5th gear...the only time i used it

Run #2-
60 foot - 2.144
1/8 - 9.162
1/4 14.171
MPH - 98.51
I was very happy with this 1:) Did a burnout for a few seconds hit all my
shifts as fast and hard as i could. Although i think with slicks i could
have easily have seen a 13 cause when i launch i just feathered the clutch
hoping not to spin out

Run #3-
60 foot - 2.271
1/8 - 10.115
1/4 - 15.447
MPH 94.03
Ok, very bad, wanted to power shift to see if i could gain anything, wound
up missing third. My question is thought why is the MPH faster then run #1
but slower??

Run #4 -
60 foot - 2.142
1/8 - 9.178
1/4 - 14.168
MPH - 98.93
Best time of the day. Hit all my power shifting gears. Everything happened
very nicely actually.

Some questions are as follows, what can i tell by those runs? What besides
slicks could get me to see a high 13? How come when i didnt use 5th gear it
went slower..is it better not too? If it isnt how can i change the car to
accelerate faster to use 5th?(i have 3.73s now)
I cant think of anything else, just got home from work... lol thanks in
advance

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A Guy Named Steve - 28 Nov 2003 22:42 GMT

Joe,

Your mph gives the best idea of what your car is capable of. The first
thing you should do, before throwing gobs of money at it, is get the most
out of what you've got.

Traction is vital for low ET's. If you don't mind swapping tires at the
track, get a set of slicks or dot slicks (I like the Hoosier QTP's). A 26"
tall version is good for the Mustangs (I didn't see what you have, I'm
assuming a 5.0???).

Once you've got traction, you don't have think about anything other than the
launch when the lights start coming down. You will probably find that
you'll have to come out of the hole harder with solid traction or you may
bog. Think about how you have to "pussy foot" it out of the hole. Now
change that to a hard 3500 rpm launch with no traction worries... your 60
foot time will go down.

Once you've got that, you can concentrate on your shifts. If you're going
to be banging them hard, get an aftermarket shifter with positive stops.
Otherwise you'll find that your car doesn't want to go into gears anymore
(bent shift fork, etc...). Now that you can shift hard, find your best
shift points. It isn't always higher to go quicker. This is where you'll
have to do some experimentation.

With your car doing 98+ mph, I think you should be able to see the mid/high
13's (13.7 +/-). This would take a pretty optimal run, but it could be
there. Your 2.14 60 foot times are decent on a street tire. I could get
2.0's with a couple of my notches. But with sticky tires, you should be
seeing 1.9's (or better). Mathematically, that alone would put you into the
13's. But also having quicker 60 foot times will give you an advantage the
rest of the way.

You don't want to be using 5th. It's not a performance gear, it's designed
to keep the motor turning low rpm's at freeway speed. At the track, pretend
it isn't there. You want to be turning your max rpm as you cross the finish
line in 4th, essentially. If your optimal shift points are around 5500 rpm,
that would be a good place to be crossing the finish line in 4th.

Steve
BBB on a stand.

> I just cant stop thinking about how i can approve myself at the track. I
> was thinkin alot about what you people were saying and alot of it makes
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
> I cant think of anything else, just got home from work... lol thanks in
> advance

Reply to this Message

2.3Sleeper - 28 Nov 2003 23:25 GMT

If he has a 5.0 with a 5 speed and the stock gears, there is no way he would
be crossing the finish line in 5th gear and still be running low 14's. I
think he has a 99+ model.

Don Manning

> Joe,
>
[quoted text clipped - 97 lines]
> > I cant think of anything else, just got home from work... lol thanks in
> > advance

Reply to this Message

A Guy Named Steve - 29 Nov 2003 00:37 GMT

OK, I guess I'm a little confused. I thought he only used 5th on the run
that was 14.5 @ 91 mph?
He said that he has 3.73's BTW.

Steve
BBB on a stand.

> If he has a 5.0 with a 5 speed and the stock gears, there is no way he would
> be crossing the finish line in 5th gear and still be running low 14's. I
[quoted text clipped - 119 lines]
> > > I cant think of anything else, just got home from work... lol thanks in
> > > advance

Reply to this Message

joe - 29 Nov 2003 00:38 GMT

Correct don:) a 00 gt vert

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bluestang98@NOSPAMnetzero.net - 29 Nov 2003 02:45 GMT

>Correct don:) a 00 gt vert

I'm gettin' in on this a little late. How about a complete rundown on
your car, mods, shift rpm's, location, etc. Seems to me that 14.17
for a '00 Vert with 3.73's isn't too shabby, depending on what track
you were running at. The 2.14 60' is respectable on street tires for
most tracks as well.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Tom

1998 GT Coupe 5-spd. Bright Atlantic Blue
K&N FIPK, Tri-Ax, 3.73's, FRPP Coated Shorties, SpeedCal,
P&P 2K Heads, 2K Intake, Bassani X-Pipe and Cat-Back,
Subframe Connectors, JMS Chip, Eagle Alloy Wheels
www.bluestanggt.corral.net

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memset@recorddeal.com - 29 Nov 2003 17:15 GMT

Those numbers aren't bad... first thing you'll want to do (as a few have
already stated) is work with what you have right now. Learning your car as
it is right now is the best thing you can do for yourself at the moment. I
do not recommend investing in any "go-fast" parts yet. I'd work on getting a
new shifter (I use a Steeda Tri-Ax short-throw shifter w/ bolt stops and
LOVE it--$170 shipped on eBay). Some sub-frame connectors will help your car
avoid twisting on the launch and gain a little more traction.. as well as a
strut tower brace will help your car feel tighter as well. Even though they
aren't "go-fast" parts they'll definitely help you drive your car better.
First part I'd buy (and I'd get one SOON) is a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter... this
will prevent you from bending shift forks.. which you do NOT want. I plan on
getting some sub-frame connectors & a strut tower brace put on my car as a
christmas gift to myself ;D. Anyway... have fun with your car.. but don't
forget maintenance ;D.

-Mike
Dark Green 98 Mustang GT

Reply to this Message

JS - 29 Nov 2003 18:00 GMT

Just for clarification purposes....

Since Joe has an '00 GT, a Tri-Ax with stop bolts would be a very wise
choice - it'll keep his transmission much happier. However, if Joe had a
late '01 or newer GT, the stop bolts should be removed as the Tremec has
built in shift stops to prevent damage to the shift fork. In any event, I'd
suggest one merely because it'd be easier to hit the gears. Joe is
unfortunate enough to have the same T-45 that I have in my '97 Cobra...
which is dying a slow, painful death. The second gear synchro is
notoriously weak in these transmissions... powershift at your own risk.

A strut tower brace is something typically removed from a drag-oriented car.
It'll help in the twisties by keeping the shock towers from flexing, thus
changing your suspension geometry greatly... but in a straight line, it's
just added weight at these speeds.

Subframes will keep the car from twisting at the strip and make it feel more
solid.. inspiring a bit more confidence and perhaps even adding an extra bit
of handling for a road course. This comes highly recommended.

Another suggestion is to not do a burnout on street tires. Tires that
aren't made to do burnouts on will probably hinder your efforts to hook up
more than anything if you do one. The water from the water box and the
rubber heating up usually creates little pebbles of hard rubber that stay on
the track or stick to your tires... giving a ball bearing effect when you
try to launch. What's typically recommended on street tires is that you
drive around the water box if possible and then do a quick dry-hop to kick
the stones and rubber bits off of your tires. I found that worked much
better for my snake... you may find differently. I suggest getting a pair
of Nitto or BFG drag radials and put them on right before you go to the
track... unless you have a buddy that will go with you in a truck, then buy
some slicks and put them on at the track. Regardless, mount what you buy on
a different set of rims (preferrably the smallest rim size that'll fit your
rear brakes) and only use them at the strip. You can drive the drag radials
to the strip and back legally, but they don't work in the rain at all...

The 60' times you pull on street tires are pretty good... I've barely been
able to break that in my Cobra with Nitto drag radials. I'm still learning.
Dropping the clutch at 4500 RPM is pretty exciting though and kicks you back
quite a bit... ;-)

JS

> Those numbers aren't bad... first thing you'll want to do (as a few have
> already stated) is work with what you have right now. Learning your car as
[quoted text clipped - 73 lines]
> > I cant think of anything else, just got home from work... lol thanks in
> > advance

Reply to this Message

memset@recorddeal.com - 29 Nov 2003 18:09 GMT

I've got a T-45 tranny too.. when something with it goes wrong again (major)
I plan on tossing it & getting a diff. tranny.. what do you recommend?
Tremec 5-speed?

-Mike

> Just for clarification purposes....
>
[quoted text clipped - 129 lines]
> > > I cant think of anything else, just got home from work... lol thanks in
> > > advance

Reply to this Message

JS - 29 Nov 2003 19:17 GMT

Depends on what your budget is. I'm eyeing up the T-56 from the '03 Cobra.
I'm pretty sure that's the same spec transmission they throw behind the
Viper and Z06 Corvette, so it'll probably do just fine with 305 horsepower
and minimal bottom end torque. Now that they threw it in a Mustang, all of
the parts are readily available to swap it in... it's just a matter of cost
now.

Otherwise, you may be able to get a Tremec trans out of a later Mustang to
drop in. I'm not sure if they make kits to put the Tremec 3650 or the TKO
into newer Mustangs due to the longer bellhousing....

JS

> I've got a T-45 tranny too.. when something with it goes wrong again (major)
> I plan on tossing it & getting a diff. tranny.. what do you recommend?
[quoted text clipped - 165 lines]
> in
> > > > advance

Reply to this Message

memset@recorddeal.com - 29 Nov 2003 19:39 GMT

Well what would be a good tranny for "average" price for a 98 Mustang GT
that probably will never get past 400hp in its life that will be a RELIABLE
tranny? I can always save up for the transmission just as long as it's a
worthwhile investment. Btw.. I appreciate your responses =).

-Mike

> Depends on what your budget is. I'm eyeing up the T-56 from the '03 Cobra.
> I'm pretty sure that's the same spec transmission they throw behind the
[quoted text clipped - 197 lines]
> > in
> > > > > advance

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