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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / October 2004

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replacing points with electronic ignition

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Richard Catrambone - 21 Oct 2004 01:07 GMT
Hi,

I have a 1965 6cyl 200cu inch 3 speed.  I've been thinking about
replacing the points with an electronic ignition.  Maybe this is a topic
that has been discussed to death on this newsgroup but I could not find
anything about it on the messages I was able to access.

Is there any reason not to go this route other than an authenticity
issue?  That is, will I have a genuine performance improvement?  If I
did do this swap, is Pertronix a reasonable brand to choose?

Thanks,

Richard
Backyard Mechanic - 21 Oct 2004 01:24 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> issue?  That is, will I have a genuine performance improvement?  If I
> did do this swap, is Pertronix a reasonable brand to choose?

Arrggghhh!!  Here we go again

Aftermarket ignitions will gain you nothing in performance,  WILL cause you
headaches sometimes in reliability.

ever here of google?

it searches groups including this one,

search mallory, pertronix, duraspark.

Duraspark II off a 76 Ford with the 250 engine (eg Grenada) will work fine
and it's easy to hook up, and MORE important reliable.   Even better, if
something fails, you can get parts at any junkyard or larger auto part store.
bill - 21 Oct 2004 01:37 GMT
>> Hi,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>Aftermarket ignitions will gain you nothing in performance,  WILL cause you
>headaches sometimes in reliability.

Not sure as to the veracity of the reply to your post.  I've swapped the points
ignition for Pertronix in my 1964.5 and in the 1966 the wife had.  Both cars
ran noticeably smoother after the swap.  Never bothered to check gas mileage as
that wasn't a concern with either car.  I wanted a car that would fire up right
away and run smoother at an idle and I was pleased with the results both times.

bill
Car: '64.5 Mustang: 260 V8, 3 sp, factory a/c, SVO cam, Performer intake,
Holley 390 cfm carb, Pertronix, Hi-Po exhaust manifolds, 1.5" front & 1" rear
drop, Jacobs wires, Torq Thrust D's

Guns: Colt AR15, Sig P220, Moss. 590A1, Marlin 70P
V'ger - 21 Oct 2004 02:03 GMT
What system did to convert to?

>>> Hi,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
>Guns: Colt AR15, Sig P220, Moss. 590A1, Marlin 70P

Entering into the unknown, V'ger seeks information
used to maintain his Vintage Burgundy 1965 Ford
Mustang 2+2 w/289 ci 4v oem A Code V8, C4 Trans,
16x8" Vintage 40 wheels, with BF Goodrich gForce
T/A 225/50ZR16 tires, American Racing "Mustang"
Centercaps, and a whole lot of other stuff; )
bill - 21 Oct 2004 14:54 GMT
>What system did to convert to?

snip

>>I've swapped the points ignition for Pertronix in my 1964.5 and in the 1966
the wife had.

bill
Car: '64.5 Mustang: 260 V8, 3 sp, factory a/c, SVO cam, Performer intake,
Holley 390 cfm carb, Pertronix, Hi-Po exhaust manifolds, 1.5" front & 1" rear
drop, Jacobs wires, Torq Thrust D's

Guns: Colt AR15, Sig P220, Moss. 590A1, Marlin 70P
Wound Up - 25 Oct 2004 20:19 GMT
I second that.  Points are something I will never deal with again.
Also, newer points are crap, made from cheaper metal, and do not hold up
as well as older ones.  A points-and-condenser setup can never give you
the clean spark an electronic setup wil.

My Petronix swap gave me instant, seat-of-the-pants increases in
smoothness of running and a mild boost in tq, hp and mpg.  I checked the
dwell at the time, and five years later, and both times it was right on
the money.  Setting the dwell on old Fords is a fussy pain in the butt.
 Seventy bucks for this setup is more than worth it.  It does give you
a performance increase and -increased- reliability.  Just make sure it's
grounded properly and there will be no problems.

>>>Hi,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Guns: Colt AR15, Sig P220, Moss. 590A1, Marlin 70P
boB - 21 Oct 2004 04:39 GMT
>>Hi,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Aftermarket ignitions will gain you nothing in performance,  WILL cause you
> headaches sometimes in reliability.

    True.

   If you're thinking of installing a high powered box and aftermarket
fancy distributor, don't.  You'll spend a lot of time and hundreds of
dollars to make it work correctly.  And then you won't notice much of a
change at all.  Certainly not worth it for a daily driver.

    However, if you're thinking of a Pertronix kit or a Duraspark swap,
it's well worth the time and money.  Electronic is better than points in
the long run.

    I installed a Pertronix kit in mine a couple of years ago.  Still
looks stock, but starts and runs better than points.

Signature

.boB
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1983 GMC Jimmy - Mountain Beater
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project

RowdyRebel - 21 Oct 2004 04:51 GMT
>>>Hi,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>     I installed a Pertronix kit in mine a couple of years ago.  Still
> looks stock, but starts and runs better than points.

Pertronix is the way to go - installs in minutes, looks stock, is a hell of
a lot more reliable than the stock points-condenser and doesn't need the
dwell and gap to be adjusted every few thousand miles.
Jim J - 21 Oct 2004 05:04 GMT
bobcowan@access4less.net (boB) wrote in
<41772f64$0$41631$ec3e2dad@news.usenetmonster.com>:

>>>Hi,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>     I installed a Pertronix kit in mine a couple of years ago.  Still
>looks stock, but starts and runs better than points.

I had a '65 Mustang w/289 from 1971 to 1978. One of the best mods I ever
did to it was to replace the points & condenser with an electronic system
(made by Hayes, I believe -- surely no longer available). The installation
was relatively simple and straightforward, and from then on, I no longer
had to be concerned with frequent tune-ups. Reliability was never a
problem, even with that early system.

And it did make the car run better overall, because there was none of the
deterioration in performance and gas mileage you get as points wear and go
out of adjustment.
--
Jim
Wound Up - 25 Oct 2004 20:26 GMT
>>> Hi,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> dollars to make it work correctly.  And then you won't notice much of a
> change at all.  Certainly not worth it for a daily driver.

Ah.  I see, I must have just gotten "lucky" by getting a Petronix and
not going that route, which I did consider.  Good to know what to avoid.

>     However, if you're thinking of a Pertronix kit or a Duraspark swap,
> it's well worth the time and money.  Electronic is better than points in
> the long run.
>
>     I installed a Pertronix kit in mine a couple of years ago.  Still
> looks stock, but starts and runs better than points.
Richard Catrambone - 21 Oct 2004 19:07 GMT
Thanks for the responses.  My thought was just to replace the points and
condenser with a kit (like Pertronix) and not do anything beyond that.

The Pertronix web page shows the "Ignitor" and "Ignitor II" systems and
I've checked a web site or two and it looks like the first is around $65
and the second is around $100.  Is that consistent with what others have
paid?

Thanks,

Richard
Dinsdale - 21 Oct 2004 20:44 GMT
>Thanks for the responses.  My thought was just to replace the points and
>condenser with a kit (like Pertronix) and not do anything beyond that.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>Richard

One of the local Mustang stores here in San Antonio sells them for $70
and $100.
V'ger - 21 Oct 2004 23:20 GMT
Same ballpark for most of the parts catalogs. The Igniter II is self
adjusting across the power curve. The Ingnitor isn't as I understand
it. That might be a consideration when selecting. There is also a
Flamethrower and Flamethrower II coil system with three versions of
the coil. Pertronix also makes 8mm plug wires, as well as headers
under the Patriot brand name.

>Thanks for the responses.  My thought was just to replace the points and
>condenser with a kit (like Pertronix) and not do anything beyond that.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>Richard

Entering into the unknown, V'ger seeks information
used to maintain his Vintage Burgundy 1965 Ford
Mustang 2+2 w/289 ci 4v oem A Code V8, C4 Trans,
16x8" Vintage 40 wheels, with BF Goodrich gForce
T/A 225/50ZR16 tires, American Racing "Mustang"
Centercaps, and a whole lot of other stuff; )
Richard Catrambone - 25 Oct 2004 04:25 GMT
Thanks again for the info.

Richard
Chuck - 25 Oct 2004 15:13 GMT
>Thanks again for the info.
>
>Richard

I didn't see the thread that led to this one.. but if no one suggested
it to you check out Pertronix
http://www.pertronix.com/ignition_products/ignition_catalog.htm

4 years ago I bought their module for my Jeep.  Works great and was
easy to install.  If you were to have any problems, all you need is a
screwdriver and set of points to "undo" conversion.
Module fits under distributor cap where points now mount. Has
bakealite (spell-check) ring that fits over distributor cam.
At the same time I installed hotter coil and resistor to coil wire as
shown in instructions from pertronix.
$55 at that time.. and no regrets... I MUST pull coil wire to "bump"
the starter (to chalk timing mark) otherwise the engine will start!
Chuck
V'ger - 25 Oct 2004 19:51 GMT
Didn't understand that last about pulling the coil wire.... Please
elaborate.

>>Thanks again for the info.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>the starter (to chalk timing mark) otherwise the engine will start!
>Chuck

Entering into the unknown, V'ger seeks information
used to maintain his Vintage Burgundy 1965 Ford
Mustang 2+2 w/289 ci 4v oem A Code V8, C4 Trans,
16x8" Vintage 40 wheels, with BF Goodrich gForce
T/A 225/50ZR16 tires, American Racing "Mustang"
Centercaps, and a whole lot of other stuff; )
Garth Almgren - 26 Oct 2004 06:13 GMT
>>$55 at that time.. and no regrets... I MUST pull coil wire to "bump"
>>the starter (to chalk timing mark) otherwise the engine will start!
>>Chuck
>
>  Didn't understand that last about pulling the coil wire.... Please elaborate.

If he wants to "bump" it, to turn over the engine without starting it
(for example, as he said, to line up timing marks), he needs to pull the
coil wire. Otherwise, it'll start too quickly with the Pertronix installed.

My dad put one in our boat this spring (powered by a Ch*vy 305), and we
noticed an instant improvement. I'd recommend it to anyone who currently
has points.

Dad did buy a second Pertronix as a backup spare, but only because in
the past we've (read: my brother or I, as young children) fried one or
two point ignitions by leaving the ignition on with the engine off.  :}

Signature

/     Garth - '83 GL V6stang Hatch <Former MW #7>     \

|      My V6stang: http://www.v6stang.com/v6stang     |
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bill - 26 Oct 2004 15:26 GMT
>Dad did buy a second Pertronix as a backup spare, but only because in
>the past we've (read: my brother or I, as young children) fried one or
>two point ignitions by leaving the ignition on with the engine off.  :}

That brings up a good point.  Do electronic ignitions suffer from this as well?
My younger brother won't leave a vehicle ingition in the "run" position if
it's not running for ANY length of time.  I do it fairly often because in most
vehicles that's the only way to power windows and other stuff.

bill
Car: '64.5 Mustang: 260 V8, 3 sp, factory a/c, SVO cam, Performer intake,
Holley 390 cfm carb, Pertronix, Hi-Po exhaust manifolds, 1.5" front & 1" rear
drop, Jacobs wires, Torq Thrust D's

Guns: Colt AR15, Sig P220, Moss. 590A1, Marlin 70P
V'ger - 26 Oct 2004 18:29 GMT
Ok. Now I understand what the "bump" was about. Articles  I have read
recommend retaining the points when converting, and keep them with the
car in case the module fails. Reinstall the points until new module
can be obtained. This due to points being cheap and the modules being
(comparatively) pricey.... and the fact that they have been known to
fail.

>>>$55 at that time.. and no regrets... I MUST pull coil wire to "bump"
>>>the starter (to chalk timing mark) otherwise the engine will start!
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>the past we've (read: my brother or I, as young children) fried one or
>two point ignitions by leaving the ignition on with the engine off.  :}

Entering into the unknown, V'ger seeks information
used to maintain his Vintage Burgundy 1965 Ford
Mustang 2+2 w/289 ci 4v oem A Code V8, C4 Trans,
16x8" Vintage 40 wheels, with BF Goodrich gForce
T/A 225/50ZR16 tires, American Racing "Mustang"
Centercaps, and a whole lot of other stuff; )
Wound Up - 25 Oct 2004 20:21 GMT
Yes, I'm not sure about the Ignitor II, but I believe my ignitor was $60
or $65 at the time.  I recently saw them for $69 (at aftermarket retailers).

> Thanks for the responses.  My thought was just to replace the points and
> condenser with a kit (like Pertronix) and not do anything beyond that.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Richard
 
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