things to look for when buying a 68 mustang

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puttster - 20 Nov 2004 17:31 GMT

I am going to check out a 68 mustang 302 2V P/S,P/B,A/C. The owner
said he has replaced the engine, rebuilt the C4, and replaced many
parts in the engine bay and has reupholstered the interior. He thinks
the body is rust free and straight.

I'm not looking to restore, just have a nice daily driver. Mostly I
don't want to be eaten up replacing seals and knobs and fixing shorts.
I would like to take a checklist with me, things to look for that
cost over $100 to fix.

Does anyone have or can anyone point me to a 100 or 200 items
checklist? Failing that, just sharing some individual experiences
would be greatly appreciated.

Putts

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Dinsdale - 20 Nov 2004 19:19 GMT

>I am going to check out a 68 mustang 302 2V P/S,P/B,A/C. The owner
>said he has replaced the engine, rebuilt the C4, and replaced many
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>Putts

(ok...don't take offense but the sarcasm is kicking in.)
Only 100-200 huh? ;)

Seems to me that if you want to check a couple hundred things on a
36yr old car you would need to know quite a bit about cars in general
just to know what you're checking....which would lead me to think you
don't really need much help just common sense about used cars.
Either that or you are just one thorough person.

(sarcasm wearing off)

If you're the latter and not up on the mechanical aspects search for a
local mustang/car club or shop that deals with older cars and ask for
someone to check out the car with you...$20-50 should get you some
informed help.

(sarcasm nearly gone)

If you are the former then take along (at least) a flashlight, a
decent sized screwdriver, and a refrigerator magnet.
When checking the car...drive it far enough to get it hot. While
driving turn on every electrical device you can - i.e. blinker;
hazards; interior lights; dash lights; heater fan; etc (trying to blow
a fuse).
Keep an eye on the exhaust...blue smoke means burning oil; black smoke
means carb/fuel problems.
Check basic drive ability. How does it idle? Does it stumble off the
line? Does the trans shift nicely? Is the steering loose? Does it
drift? (alignment drift is not good; smoking the tires around a corner
on a control power slide is)
You'll also want to do some panic stops...check the brakes for
pulling, spongy pedal, fade.

Once your test drive is done take the flashlight and start looking
under the car for fluid drips. Check the front and oil pan gasket.
Take off the trans inspection plate, if there's oil there it could be
the rear main seal or (if it's red) the tranny pump seal.
Check the master cylinder for the fluid condition (muddy=bad;
clear=good) If you have the time and tools take the brake drums off
and look for leaking wheel cylinders, or leaking axle seals .

Are we at 200 yet?

The screwdriver is used to probe the frame and floor panels for
rust-through.

Place the magnet in various places on the body...especially low ,
behind the wheel arches..if it doesn't stick it's a good sign of body
filler.

You could also bring a voltmeter and check battery voltage, alternator
output.

(sarcasm off)
And on a final note: here's a website checklist that might fit your
needs:
http://www.classic-cars-worldwide.com/testdrive.html

Damn...I could have saved so much time by just posting the link. But
what's the fun in that!!! (smartass mode kicked in)

Hava goodun.

DP
http://tinyurl.com/4fcsn

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puttster - 21 Nov 2004 04:50 GMT

> >I am going to check out a 68 mustang 302 2V P/S,P/B,A/C. The owner
> >said he has replaced the engine, rebuilt the C4, and replaced many
[quoted text clipped - 77 lines]
> DP
> http://tinyurl.com/4fcsn

Thanks. I also heard bring a tape measure and see it the front wheelwells
are the some height. Yesterday I walked past an old car that had the faint
smell of a smoking engine, something I had not smelled in a while but I
recall was quite common in the olden days. With a rebuilt engine with 3,000
miles on it, should I smell anything like that or should it smell clean?
I have a vaccuum gauge and the instructions, I was thinking of bringing
that but not sure where exactly is the best place to plug it in.

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Dinsdale - 21 Nov 2004 05:38 GMT

>> >I am going to check out a 68 mustang 302 2V P/S,P/B,A/C. The owner
>> >said he has replaced the engine, rebuilt the C4, and replaced many
[quoted text clipped - 85 lines]
>I have a vaccuum gauge and the instructions, I was thinking of bringing
>that but not sure where exactly is the best place to plug it in.

At 3000 miles everything should be cured (engine paint, sealants) or
burnt off (like header paint). If it smells it could be a fluid leak;
maybe the crankcase ventilation needs to be looked at ; or the exhaust
gasket(s) are leaking.

Look for a vacuum fitting on the intake manifold.

DP
http://tinyurl.com/4fcsn

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Deadcarnahans - 21 Nov 2004 21:57 GMT

Why requote the entire post?

DC

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Dinsdale - 21 Nov 2004 22:41 GMT

>Why requote the entire post?
>
>DC

Short answer:
Because it's easier.

Long Answer:
So the next person reading the post knows the story of the thread.
Yes, you could look at the previous posts, but it is far easier - in
my opinion - just to scroll through the message you are currently
reading.

Often multiple questions are asked...or multiple solutions are
offered. If the replies simply had an answer without context the
meaning becomes unclear.

People sort newsgroup messages in various ways in their browsers and
threads are not always listed the same way. It helps to direct an
answer to a specific question. Since I quoted your text here, I think
it would be painfully clear that this reply is directed to your post.

Lastly, it's not my job to edit the text to make it easier for others
(how hard can it be anyway?)....but that doesn't mean I won't snip
some text from time to time if I feel like it.

DP
http://tinyurl.com/4fcsn

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