Bringing it back to life

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Jay Honeck - 05 Mar 2005 02:21 GMT

I've had my 2000 Mustang Convertible in the back of our unheated hangar
since last November, untouched. I covered it with cotton sheets, filled the
gas tank to the top, aired up the tires -- and haven't touched it since.

Yesterday I charged the battery up and fired it up. The engine sounded a
little "ticky" for a few seconds, and then purred like a big cat. I let it
warm up fully before shutting it back down.

I also aired up the tires, which were about 50% low. The floor of the
hangar is astroturf over pea gravel, which has enough "give" so that I think
the tires aren't flat-spotted from sitting.

The brake rotors are completely rusty. Should/can I do anything about that
before driving the car again? Or will that all just come off after a few
brake applications.

I figured I'd change the oil/filter right away -- but is there anything else
involved with bringing a car out of winter storage?

Thanks,
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
2000 Mustang Convertible
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

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Wound Up - 05 Mar 2005 03:11 GMT

> I've had my 2000 Mustang Convertible in the back of our unheated hangar
> since last November, untouched. I covered it with cotton sheets, filled the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> little "ticky" for a few seconds, and then purred like a big cat. I let it
> warm up fully before shutting it back down.

Ticky is just the valvetrain hydraulics pumping up.

> I also aired up the tires, which were about 50% low. The floor of the
> hangar is astroturf over pea gravel, which has enough "give" so that I think
> the tires aren't flat-spotted from sitting.

Mmmm.... dunno. Thup-thup-thup?

> The brake rotors are completely rusty. Should/can I do anything about that
> before driving the car again? Or will that all just come off after a few
> brake applications.

Depends on how rusty is rusty. Surface rust forms quickly on rotors.
Drive carefully and don't hammer it at first. Feel it, and get out and
check.

> I figured I'd change the oil/filter right away -- but is there anything else
> involved with bringing a car out of winter storage?

Good idea. The 2000+... are your belts OK? Antifreeze (?)

Dump a can of good (e.g., STP) fuel injector cleaner in the full tank,
run it to operating temp a few times (>20 min), and run the tankful, and
check your tire pressure. Check your fluids again.

Then, once it's completely warm, and you feel confident with the above,
run the sucker to or near redline a few times. Just wring the snot out
of it at full throttle, and let it rev. Keep it a gear lower than
'usual', 3000+, for a bit. See how it responds. Is it an automatic?
Does it shift slowly once warmed? Check your fluids. Pay attention.
Let it build up the pressures. Running it hard blows out the carbon,
and works your gaskets. Check for leaks, and enjoy.

Anyone else?

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Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65

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Backyard Mechanic - 05 Mar 2005 03:24 GMT

Jay Honeck opined

> I figured I'd change the oil/filter right away -- but is there anything
> else involved with bringing a car out of winter storage?

Well... i'd like to suggest that you give it a couple good warmup cycles
first...

Any condensation isnt going to come out with the old oil. And there's not
likely to be enough to drop to the bottom of the pan

If it was ME, I'd change the oil just before storage, because used oil is
acidic. Then just fire it up and drive it 3000 or more come spring.

But, like everthing else, just my opinion

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- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

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ZombyWoof - 05 Mar 2005 19:54 GMT

>Jay Honeck opined
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>If it was ME, I'd change the oil just before storage, because used oil is
>acidic. Then just fire it up and drive it 3000 or more come spring.

Yeah that is my recommendation as well. I always change the oil on my
bike right before I put it up for the winter. I also run it up for a
while to let the new oil circulate all around.

>But, like everthing else, just my opinion

Mine too.

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"Maybe worshiping the cross and the painful death rather
than the well lived life really has distorted our sense
of who we are and what life is about." -- Author unkown

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Jay Honeck - 06 Mar 2005 13:40 GMT

> If it was ME, I'd change the oil just before storage, because used oil is
> acidic. Then just fire it up and drive it 3000 or more come spring.

I had changed the oil in October, just a few weeks before putting it away
for the winter, so I figured that was "close-to-new" -- especially given how
seldom we drive it. (I really didn't need to put it away that early, but
snow was predicted and I didn't want any chance of running this car in the
salt.)

Today is predicted to hit 60+ degrees, so I think it's time to bring her out
of hibernation!

Thanks for the tips, folks.

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Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
2000 Mustang Convertible
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

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Jimmy - 05 Mar 2005 03:49 GMT

Radial tires aren't going to flat spot from November.

> I also aired up the tires, which were about 50% low. The floor of the
> hangar is astroturf over pea gravel, which has enough "give" so that I think
> the tires aren't flat-spotted from sitting.

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