CobraJet was kind enough to wave me off of the last one I was looking at
for my 1968 Mustang.

This one is 31-spline but it is 8.8 inch (not 9 inch which I understand
is better) and I do not know how to tell if it is an N case.  How can I
tell?

Does this look like a good rear end for a big block in a '68 Mustang
coupe?  I am going with either a 428CJ I might have a line on or a built
460 (400-500HP).

Here is the auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=796
5991340

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This is an auction for a RACE READY freshly built Ford 8.8 rear end. I had
this built for a project race truck but never got to use it. All welds
have been professionally ground and re-welded for strength and the
housing has been welded to the tubes to eliminate any flex. Axle tube
flex in the housing is the number one killer of rear-ends in both
off-road applications and on the street. Don't buy a "professionally
welded rear-end" and find out somebody has welded the gears together to
make a posi unit. This rear-end is built the right way to include a Ford
Racing Trac-Loc posi unit, Ford Racing 3.55 gears, 31 spline axles, Trick
Flow supported diff cover, and ARP hardware. This rear-end was designed
for street or strip use with up to a 700 horsepower engine but is even
more outstanding as an offroad rear-end. It's doubtfull you could break
this rear-end. This rear end also includes a removeable sway bar that
works great for truck applications but can be removed for cars.

Bolt pattern is 5 x 5.5 Ford, Jeep CJ, or Dodge. This is the rear-end you
see most commonly on the track due to its ease of installation, strength,
and weight. Want a bullet-proof way to beef up your Jeep, Ford, or Dodge?
This is the way. This rear-end is comparible in strength to most of the
Dana rears but is much lighter. Do the math on parts alone and you'll see
what a great deal this one is.
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Thanks!
Thomas