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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / April 2005Brakes?
Hi all, I am new to the group... Could not find a FAQ for this group... Surprised to find computer Q&A posted here... Brakes. I have a 1990 GT 5.0 which I bought from the origional owner when his 2yr open-ended lease was up. The front disk brakes were never great, but worked fine. Until I started driving the infamous Highway 17 between the Silicon Valley and Santa Cruz California. They warped quickly (bad driver!). I had the rotors turned once, which straightened them out a bit, but occasionally driving over 17, usually with minimal use of the brakes, warped them back to where they had been and beyond. My teeth rattle pretty hard on a hard stop on level ground now. Downhill is much worse of course. The Factory brake pads lasted 80,000 miles, that is when I had the rotors turned, so I am not hard on brakes in general. Just on 17. I am loooking for suggestions for a replacement front disk brake system for 1990 Mustang GT. I would prefer to not have to changeout the factory "turbine" mags. I want mild overkill. I expect that complete replacement will probably only cost about double what rotor replacement will cost. OK, maybe three times... There are lots of companies selling parts. I would like strong functionality with minimal cost (cost is less important than function). Goal - to not have to do this again, even if I have to stop quickly repeatedly on Hwy 17. Suggestions? TIA! --Dave Java__Dave@NOSPAM_Hotmail.com Hey Dave and Welcome! You can google the FAQ, It was last posted about a month ago when someone was asking about it. The faq pretty much boils down to: Don't spam, don't troll, don't post in html. DO talk Mustangs and enjoy. Oh, and there are already a couple of trolls in here. Kinda like roaches ya know. Hope you get the answers you are looking for on your brakes! Kate 98 Cobra Drop Top | Hi all, | [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] | | Java__Dave@NOSPAM_Hotmail.com > Oh, and there are already a couple of trolls in here. Kinda like roaches > ya > know. Well, the one is not a troll. More like newsgroup genital warts. dwight | > Oh, and there are already a couple of trolls in here. Kinda like roaches | > ya [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] | | dwight Damn Dwight, no one has a way with a mental image quite like you LMAO! Kqate > | > Oh, and there are already a couple of trolls in here. Kinda like > roaches [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Kqate I'll second that.... Just wound up spitting coffee all over my monitor reading that. <snip> >I have a 1990 GT 5.0 which I bought from the origional owner when his >2yr open-ended lease was up. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >Goal - to not have to do this again, even if I have to stop quickly >repeatedly on Hwy 17. Once rotors are warped, their warped. Turning them may improve it for a while but the problem will come back. Warping usually occurs from to quick of a heating cooling process. Knowing the road that you are talking about, it is fairly easy to heat your brakes up right nice. A set of cross-drilled rotors will help dissipate the heat a little better. Also more pistons, four or six, will give better braking performance as well. Believe it or not a set of Rotors are fairly cheap, except on my Vette, I will usually replace them once they have been turned once or if I ever warp them. Read http://www.mustang50magazine.com/howto/33551/ and you will be glad you did. While the article is for 94 & later Mustangs, the same type of upgrade can be done on your 90.  Signature"Either kill me or take me as I am, because I'll be damned if I ever change..." The Marquis de Sade ><snip> >>I have a 1990 GT 5.0 which I bought from the origional owner when his [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >better. Also more pistons, four or six, will give better braking >performance as well. bullcrap machining will remove warpage making it straight average run out on a warped rotor is .005" not that much when you machine .060 is taken off in fact that is very little material it is cooling that warps them try this at home doo 100mph stop then drive through a waterpuddle lmfao tard rotors are so cheap its better to buy new and get new brng race than machine ( time factor) >Believe it or not a set of Rotors are fairly cheap, except on my >Vette, I will usually replace them once they have been turned once or [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >glad you did. While the article is for 94 & later Mustangs, the same >type of upgrade can be done on your 90. hurc ast ford mastertech wow, you got promoted to ford mastertech eh? Im surely impressed. >><snip> >>>I have a 1990 GT 5.0 which I bought from the origional owner when his [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] > hurc ast > ford mastertech >wow, you got promoted to ford mastertech eh? > >Im surely impressed. Hell I'm impressed you reply to his own private version of insanity. The guys is nothing other then a verbal masturbator. Leave him be quietly in the corner to play with himself. >>><snip> >>>>I have a 1990 GT 5.0 which I bought from the origional owner when his [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] >> hurc ast >> ford mastertech Signature"Either kill me or take me as I am, because I'll be damned if I ever change..." The Marquis de Sade Honestly, I reply for the amusement while bored at work. I don't actually take him seriously. nor does anyone else... >>wow, you got promoted to ford mastertech eh? >> [quoted text clipped - 64 lines] >>> hurc ast >>> ford mastertech > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > started driving the infamous Highway 17 between the Silicon Valley and > Santa Cruz California. They warped quickly (bad driver!). Before spending a dime, read this: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm In case you don't know of Carroll Smith, he was a race car builder for many years. He wrote some excellent books, including "Tune to Win", and "Engineer to Win". He died recently. Then, after you read that, go to the Wilwood Brakes and Baer Brakes web pages and read through their FAQ pages. That will provide the groundwork for building an excellent brake system without wasting a bunch of $$. Signature.boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project In the case of warped rotors it is almost always more cost effective to just replace the rotors, turning down the old ones just prolongs the inevitable. A good upgrade to the stock system is to replace the stock 65mm front calipers with 73mm ones from a Lincoln LSC or Crown Victoria. This change sometimes requires the addition of a larger master cylinder as well. (depends on year). You have probably noticed that your rear brake shoes are in pristine condition. That's because they ain't doing s**t! Installing an adjustable proportioning valve will enable you to get the rears to start pulling their share of the load. If you want even more stopping power you can go with a SSBC rear disk upgrade kit, combined with the aforementioned 73mm front calipers this will give you European like braking performance. The whole thing fits nicely underneath your stock rims with no problem. The kit also comes with a new master cylinder if your car requires one so that is one less part you have to buy if you go this route. I have this exact setup in my 88GT and I love it. A cautionary note, if you install the rear kit without the larger front calipers the peddle effort will be uncomfortably high. > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > > Java__Dave@NOSPAM_Hotmail.com Hello again, ZombyWoof, .boB, ironrod, thank you for your informaive replies. I'm going to go do some reading now. --Dave |
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