First thing I'd do is check the clutch adjustment. Under the hood,
sitting below the brakes' master cylinder is a rod that runs from the
clutch pedal to the equalizer bar. The under-hood end of this rod is
threaded. It goes through a hole in a block that pivots on the end of
the equalizer bar. There should be a nut on each side of this block.
Reach in there and see if you can jiggle the equalizer bar. If so,
then back off the lock nut (the one nearest the tip of the rod) and
turn the other nut counter clockwise until you've taken all the slack
out. Don't go too far. You don't want to set it too tight, or the
throwout bearing will be constantly pressing on the pressure plate and
will burn out. Tighten the lock nut, and see if your gear selection
problem is gone. If it's not, and you've run out of adjustment on the
rod, then it's probably time for a new clutch.
The scraping sound is the throwout bearing. If this sound doesn't go
away after the clutch adjustment, it's time to replace the throwout
bearing. Because this requires removal of the drive shaft, shifter,
tranny, and bell housing, you ought to replace the clutch as long as
you're in there. A cheapie clutch kit, including a new throwout
bearing, runs about $180. The good stuff -- Centerforce -- is about a
hundred more.
7
pawn, loathesome, credible - 04 May 2005 23:33 GMT
> First thing I'd do is check the clutch adjustment. Under the hood,
> sitting below the brakes' master cylinder is a rod that runs from the
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> problem is gone. If it's not, and you've run out of adjustment on the
> rod, then it's probably time for a new clutch.
Thank you for your help. The equalizer bar had about an inch or so of
play in it, which I eliminated. The scraping (perhaps predictably) was
a little worse when cold, but the clutch definitely felt like it had
more engagement and the shifting improved. The throwout bearing
scraping disappeared within a few minutes. Maybe that will improve too,
now that it is getting worked a little more. We'll see, but it seems
some clutch work is on the horizon in any case.
Thanks again.
sanfordm44356@syahoo.com - 04 May 2005 23:35 GMT
>First thing I'd do is check the clutch adjustment. Under the hood,
>sitting below the brakes' master cylinder is a rod that runs from the
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
>7
bewarned
cheap aftermarket clutches
have problems brake washer around the hub
reamans ten to brakes and rattle
i always advise people when the buy cheap clutch kits
that if it makes noise ya pay me again
hurc ast
one80out@hotmail.com - 05 May 2005 02:27 GMT
hurc ast wrote:
> bewarned
> cheap aftermarket clutches
> have problems brake washer around the hub
> reamans ten to brakes and rattle
What do you think of the Ram brand? Just curious, because that's what
I put in my kids' '65. From NPD, which seems to stock the better stuff.
180 Out