you claim to be a diesel guy
and yet you recommend to mix oils
lmfao
you failed year 4
go hydrotreat that
lmfao
where do ya get your thermal crack ?
lmfao
Information for PowerStroke owners
Click here for 6.0 PowerStroke and Torqshift Information
Engine oil requirements
The most common problem with Ford's 7.3 Direct Injection Turbo diesel
is related to engine oil change interval and type of oil being used.
It is critical for proper engine operation that the customer or
technician servicing the vehicle check that the correct oil is being
used. This engine uses a high pressure oil pump to operate the fuel
injectors. Typical system pressures are 500 psi at idle, 1200 at 3300
rpm in neutral, and 3600 psi at full load acceleration. Oil for the
PowerStroke requires an anti-foaming agent to prevent the oil from
aerating, which would result in poor fuel injector spray patterns and
reduced power. Depending on vehicle usage, the anti-foaming agents are
depleted in 3000-5000 miles.
The only oil recommended for the PowerStroke by Ford is Motorcraft
Super Duty 15W40, 10W30. Each of these has the proper additives in
them for use in a diesel engine including the anti-foaming agents. The
15W40 is recommended for normal climates, the 10W30 for temperatures
below 20 degrees fahranheit. For temperatures below -10 degees, 5W-30
is recommended. There are other oils, however, that do meet all the
requirments for use in the PowerStroke. The specifications the owner
needs to look for on the label are the API rating of CF-4/SH or
CG-4/SH or higher. Some other oils with the correct ratings are:
Penzoil Long-Life 15W40
Shell Rotella-T 15W40
Chevron Delo 400 15W40, 10W30
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40
Castrol Heavy-Duty 15W40
Valvoline All-Fleet Plus or Cummins Premium Blue: 15W40
Union 76 Guardol QLT 15W40
Wal-Mart's Tech 2000 Universal 15W40
Texaco Ursa Super Plus 15W40, 10W30
Quaker State FCI Universal 15W40, 10W30
Quaker State FCI HDX Plus 15W40
Kendall Super-D 3 15W40, 10W30
Kendall SHP Diesel 15W40
Exxon XD-3 Extra 15W40
Citgo Mystik Premium Fleet 15W40
Citgo Mystik JT-8 15W40, 15W50, 10W30
For those of you wishing to use synthetic oil, the only ones I have
seen with the correct specs for the PowerStroke engine are:
Motorcraft Super All Season 0W-30 Semi Synthetic
Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil
Amsoil 15W40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil
Amsoil 10W30/SAE 30 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil
Amsoil 10W-40 and 20W-50 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
Amsoil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil
Amsoil 15W40 Semi-Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Oil
Mobil Delvac 1 High-Performance Synthetic, Heavy Duty Diesel Engine
Oil 5W40
Quaker State 4X4 15W40 Synthetic Blend
Shell Rotella SB (synthetic blend)
Shell Rotella T 5W-40
Royal Purple Synthetic 15W-40, 10W-30, 20W50
Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Synthetic Blend 15W-40
Conklin Convoy 15W-40, 20W-50
Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5W-40 Synthetic
Petro-Canada Duron XL 15W-40 Synthetic Blend
Citgo Mystik SX-8 15W-40 Synthetic Blend
Advantage Duragard Super HD 15W40
If these are unavailable you can use a multi-grade synthetic
designated CF for use in diesel engines along with an anti-foaming
additive. Some synthetic oils with this rating are:
Mobil 1
Castrol Syntec
Valvoline SynPower
Quaker State Syncron Ultra Performance
Recommended anti-foaming additives are Fleetrite with the Navistar P/N
CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888. These are primarilly used to counter the
effects of silicone sealers on the anti-foaming agents in the oil or
if the agents become depleted from use providing the oil is still
servicable and uncontaminated. An anti-foaming additive could also be
used between oil changes if an oil-related poor running condition is
suspected, especially on a long trip.
Under normal driving conditions the additive could extend the oil
change interval to 6000 miles. For vehicles that are used for
infrequent towing, using the additive at 3000 miles could extend the
oil change interval to no longer than 5000 miles. Vehicles operated in
dirty conditions, extreme weather conditions or constantly under heavy
loads should stick to the 3000 mile service interval due to the other
agents in the oil being depleted, and should only use the anti-foaming
additive if performance problems occur between services.
The refill for the crankcase is 14 quarts for 94-97's and 15 quarts
for 98.5/99's with filter change. Some early 95 and older engines were
equipped with a 12 quart dipstick (Navistar P/N 1820068C1) and need to
be filled to just over the word "FULL", or replaced with the correct
part (Navistar P/N 1824405C1; Ford P/N F4TZ-6750-E for F-series;
F5UZ-6750-A for Econoline). Some later dipstick tubes were not seated
properly causing the crankcase to be over-filled in an attempt to
bring the level up to the mark.
The oil filter for the PowerStroke (Motorcraft P/N FL1995) is longer
than that of the previous Ford/Navistar diesel, and the old-style
filter should not be used. Due to its seal design, the oil filter
should be hand tightened, then turned an additional quarter-turn--or
torqued to 20ft/lbs--with the oil filter wrench to prevent leaking.
Fuel and air filters
Another problem that arises, usually during wet weather, is the "water
in fuel light" staying on. Diesel fuel attracts moisture, and
unfortunatly water does most of the damage to a diesel's fuel system.
Normaly the "water in fuel" light only comes on at cold starts when
the water has had a chance to seperate from the fuel in the filter
housing. If the water is not drained regularly, it will mix with the
fuel due to the agitation caused by the fuel pump, and if there is
enough water in the filter the light stays on. You should drain the
fuel filter at least once a month, more if the weather is wet. On
early 97 and older F-series the drain is accessed through the opening
on the engine trim cover. The yellow drain lever can be seen at the 7
o'clock position on the fuel filter housing. Turn the lever one
quarter of a turn clockwise to open it. If the fuel does not drain,
you may have to crank the engine over. On the late 97 F-series, the
engine trim has been cut down, but the drain lever is in the same
position as is the Econoline vans, but the vans need the air filter
housing removed to access the drain. On the 99 PowerStroke engines,
the drain has been moved to the ten o'clock position and is turned one
quarter turn clockwise, and the key turned to the on position to allow
the electric fuel pump to expell the fuel. 98.5 and newer Econolines
have a cable attached to the filter drain, which is near the
transmission dip stick. The fuel drains onto the front crossmember, so
you may want to install a piece of hose at the end of the drain pipe
to prevent messes.
If the fuel becomes very contaminated, you'll want to change the
filter. Some aftermarket filters have a square-cut o-ring seal instead
of the lip type of the original [IMAGE]. I recommend using the Ford
Motorcraft filters FD4595 for the 94-98 and FD4596 for the 98.5-2K or
their Racor equivalents: IN F4595 and IN F4596. The WIX 33518/NAPA
Gold 3518 used to be identical to these, but reciently they changed
design (without changing part numbers) to a square cut lid seal and a
weak grommet-like lower seal which tends to split. The fuel filter
also has a pin in the top which opens a valve inside the filter
housing standpipe. Some aftermarket filters have a shorter pin than
necessary which results in the valve not opening completely and this
can cause lack of power concerns. The fuel filter should be changed at
15,000 mile intervals.
On the 97 and older, the filter housing cover can be removed using a
large screwdriver to turn the cover by laying it across the cover and
twisting against the ridges on the cover. The 99 fuel filter cover (as
well as the earlier design) can be removed with a 4 inch oil filter
wrench. On both types of filter housing, the new o-ring needs to be
lubed with fuel or oil and installed onto the housing--not the
cover--with the lip facing up.
Do not use any fuel additive containing alcohol or ones that would
allow water to pass through the fuel system to be burned off in the
cylinders. The tolerances of the fuel injectors are so precise that
this could cause damage and failure of the injectors from the lack of
lubrication. Also using fuel not ment for highway use could cause
damage to the injectors or the catalytic converter. Ford does have a
fuel additive for use during break-in periods such as when the
injectors are serviced, and is recommended for use any time fuel
quality is in question; P/N F8AZ-9C077-AA. In cold weather conditions
Stanadyne's Performance/All Season Fuel Conditioner (P/N 29409[pt]).
Above all, do not mix gasolene in with the diesel fuel. If you have an
algae problem, there are fuel conditioners to correct this, too.
The larger F-series air filter (Motorcraft FA-1617) should be good for
as long as the fuel filter, depending on dust conditions, but the
Econoline (FA-1618), the 99 F-series (FA-1675) and 99.5 F-series
(FA-1680) use a smaller filter (the E-van uses two). It would be a
good idea to check the air filter(s) on these once a week in dusty
conditions and replace them every other oil change, and to keep a
spare. Or you could purchase an after market "washable" filter element
such as those sold by K&N or Amsoil. When inspecting or replacing the
air filter, inspect the filter housing drain and clean it as
necessary.
Cooling system maintenance
The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible
for the coolant to cavitate--produce tiny bubbles--that can with time
cause pin holes throught the cylinder walls from the water jackets.
For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N
DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means
installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every
15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with
Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the
level of DCA4 in the system, then you add the amount as required. The
cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area
with especialy alkiline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of
coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of
coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene
glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol
coolants in any of their vehicles.
Antifreezes I can recommend:
Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze
Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted 50/50
Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with
demineralized water)
Zerex Heavy Duty Precharged Formula
Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
Prestone Heavy Duty (black bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant with SCA
Fleetguard Compleat EG--precharged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level
Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant--Low Silicate
Peak Full Force or Advance
FleetCharge Antifreeze/Coolant--precharged with Pencool
2002 model year trucks use any of the above if your truck came filled
with green coolant. If it came from the factory with yellow coolant,
only use Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze, Zerex G05 (gold bottle),
Peak Global Extended Life (gold bottle) or Peak Extended Life CF-EXL
(silver bottle). These coolants do not require SCA/DCA.
Trucks originally filled with Gold coolant:
All 2002 F-Series built at the Kentucky Truck Plant (VIN 11th digit
"E")
2002 F150-550 built in Cuautitlan (VIN "M") from 2-4-02
2002 F650/750 built in Cuautitlan from 1-28-02
All Econolines built from 7-15-02
Do not use extended life coolants (ELC) as they can cause water pump
seal and injector sleeve deterioration.
Tips
Do not use starting fluids for hard starting problems. With the glow
plug system, starting fluids can ignite as the key is turned on
causing engine damage. Keep your batteries and charging system in good
condition, note any problems with the glow plug cycle, and if you
experience a hard cold start problem, plug in the block heater, if
your truck is equiped with one. This will heat the coolant enough to
aid in starting. If you do experience hard starting, get you truck
serviced as this condition could cause other system problems if left
unrepaired, such as starter failure.
Care should be taken when installing performance enhancing devises or
"chips", or modifing any electronic engine component such as
configuring the exhaust back pressure valve to act as an engine brake.
This can cause driveability problems, "check engine" light to come on,
and may affect your warrenty.
If you truck has an automatic overdrive transmission and you tow,
remember that there is no engine braking in overdrive. It is
recommended that the overdrive be cancelled when towing in hilly areas
to prevent accelerated brake and transmission wear and transmission
overheating.
You may want to pick up some items to carry with you, especially for
long trips:
At least 2 quarts of the engine oil that you use. Don't mix two
different oils, their chemical additives may not be compatable.
A pint of the Fleetrite CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888 anti-foaming
conditioner.
A fuel filter; either a screwdriver or oil filter wrench to open the
filter housing; 2 feet of 5/16 hose to attach to the filter drain and
something to drain it into (ie, a coffee can).
At least 2 pints of the F8AZ-9C077-AA fuel lubricity conditioner, or
Stanadye Performance/All Season Fuel Conditioner.
A pint of the FW-15/-16 DCA4 coolant conditioner.
If you own an E-van or 99 F-series, air filter(s).
An accessories drive (serpintine) belt--you may not be able to install
it yourself, but at least you won't be stranded for lack of one.
Some other non-essentials: An oil filter, 5 gallons of diesel, jumper
cables, a CC2602A test kit for the DCA4, and an extension cord for the
block heater.
Chances are, with as many of these engines out there, you'll come
across another PowerStroke owner that carries some of these items if
you are in need, but it's always good to be prepared when on a trip.
For general service and maintenance information and Check List for any
vehicle click HERE
dieselmann's Store; Diesel Products and Supplies & Perfomance.
Back to dieselmann's Page
How the PowerStroke Injection system works
6.0 PowerStroke and Torqshift Information
Links to other sites on the 'Net
www.thedieselstop.com; (The Ford Diesel Website/Ford-Diesel.com)
information and discussion for Ford diesel owners
InterMotive, INC.; Overdrive inverters for automatic transmissions and
other devices
International Truck and Engine (Navistar)
Amsoil product information--lubricants and filters.
Diesel Injector Service; For all of your diesel engine needs:
Injection systems, filters, O-ring kits,
accessories and fuel conditioners
PowerStroke Mail List;
Information and discussion on 1999 and up Ford F Series Trucks & Ford
Vans with the
Ford/Navistar Power Stroke 7.3L Direct Injection Turbo diesel engine.
Click to subscribe to PowerStroke mail list
Power Stroke Registry
An organization for PowerStroke owners; quarterly publication
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© ©
1998,1999
Jim Warman - 07 May 2005 20:28 GMT
You are getting nice and close.... I'll forward this on to someone who
knows..... You better show exactly where I recommended mixing oils, buster
because I have you uttering false statement.
Looks to me like you crossed the line and made my day....
> you claim to be a diesel guy
> and yet you recommend to mix oils
[quoted text clipped - 314 lines]
> © ©
> 1998,1999
esutherland6_2_94@hotmail.com - 07 May 2005 21:21 GMT
>You are getting nice and close.... I'll forward this on to someone who
>knows..... You better show exactly where I recommended mixing oils, buster
>because I have you uttering false statement.
>
>Looks to me like you crossed the line and made my day....
lmfao
now you are just babbling
you have me for fuckall
lmfao
hurry yup im waiting
hurc ast
warman@warman.com - 07 May 2005 21:24 GMT
>You are getting nice and close.... I'll forward this on to someone who
>knows..... You better show exactly where I recommended mixing oils, buster
>because I have you uttering false statement.
>
>Looks to me like you crossed the line and made my day....
which line is that
the oil mixing line
?????????
>> you claim to be a diesel guy
>> and yet you recommend to mix oils
[quoted text clipped - 315 lines]
>> © ©
>> 1998,1999
Jim Warman - 08 May 2005 01:09 GMT
Nice try, hurc..... I'll let you know on Monday....
> >You are getting nice and close.... I'll forward this on to someone who
> >knows..... You better show exactly where I recommended mixing oils, buster
[quoted text clipped - 325 lines]
> >> © ©
> >> 1998,1999
warman@warman.com - 08 May 2005 04:04 GMT
>Nice try, hurc..... I'll let you know on Monday....
lmfao
i will hold my breath
lmfao
hurc ast