>When you say she could be running more smoothly, are you talking about at
>idle, half throttle, full throttle...? If it is at idle, your pilot circuit
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>clutch and do another read. This will be your best indication of what is
>running lean/rich, etc.
Plugs are brand new. Don't really think I can do that test all too
well though because its a royal pain to get to the plugs. Can't remove
them without talking half the bike apart, its impossible. And even
then its difficult, frame really gets in the way bad on plug 1 and 4.
>I've had so much experience with motorcycle carbs lately, it's ridiculous.
>Trying to get an old Suzuki GS bike back on the road :-)
And I'm being forced to learn fast lol!
>Let me know if I can be of any more assistance.
Come over and fix my carb? =)
Well, to elaborate on the problems a little bit more.
It's worst when she's cold. Gets better as she heats up.
Problems are mostly in low to mid throttle and low-mid range rpms. At
idle, I can hear the engine randomly for a split second idling faster,
than dropping back down.
Now I do remember this, a few weeks ago, when I first had the
problems, I took it by a shop and they did a quick check and we found
that the exhaust pipe on the header for cylinder number 1 was at
around 160 degrees VS 400 degrees on the other 3. So something
definitely wasn't right w/ that cylinder. This is also when I had the
sudden power loss at 9,000 rpms. But as I've said before, resyncing
the carbs solved that, and it was mainly that cylinder that I had to
make most the adjustments on. So I figured that it probably wasn't
getting a combustible mixture all the time.
However I'm wondering if maybe that cylinder still is not always
firing. If that were the case, it would explain the idle bouncing
around like that if the cylinder was randomly going on/off.
I guess maybe I should go buy a thermostat that can handle the exhaust
pipe temps and check the temperature on that pipe and see if there
still is a temperature difference.
--
Stephan
2001 Yamaha YZF-R6
Richard - 12 May 2005 05:15 GMT
Have zero knowledge of bikes but what you are describing sounds like it
could be an ignition coil issue. Faulty or a bad connection?

Signature
Richard
'94 GT 'vert
Under Drive Pulleys
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
High Stall Torque Converter
4:10 Gears
Gripp Sub Frame Connectors (welded)
FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft
FRPP M5400-A Suspension
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> >When you say she could be running more smoothly, are you talking about at
> >idle, half throttle, full throttle...? If it is at idle, your pilot circuit
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
> Stephan
> 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6
Stephan Rose - 12 May 2005 05:50 GMT
>Have zero knowledge of bikes but what you are describing sounds like it
>could be an ignition coil issue. Faulty or a bad connection?
I've thought about that too. It does have an individual coil for each
plug, so yea it may be possible that coil 1 is possibly bad. I suppose
I need to actually tear it all apart again and check the resistance on
it.
--
Stephan
2001 Yamaha YZF-R6