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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / June 200568 coupe suspension questions
All - My 68 coupe drives like a boat - a really sloppy, "floating" feeling and it plows badly when I go around corners. It looks like the original suspension is under the body, including the original bushings. I'm looking around and there are about a million options for me. Since I just dropped a wad o' cash on the new motor, I am leaning towards the Mustangs Plus Grab-A-Track Performance Suspension Rebuild Kit and the Grab-A-Trak Spring and Handling Kit. It seems to be good stuff and not too expensive. Does anyone have any experience, good or bad, with these kits? I am leaning towards the upgrade from 4-leaf to 5-leaf rear springs - I am just as interested in handling in the twisties as I am in the quarter mile. If I put the 5-leaf springs on and decide later that I want to lower it, it is just a matter of longer u-bolts and lowering blocks, right? I am hesitant to get lowering springs because the rear is already noticeably lower than the front. It says that the 620 springs lower the front end by an inch, so I am thinking if I leave the rear where it is and drop the front, it will even out. Of course, the 225 tires on the 15x8 rims are already rubbing when I turn the wheel all the way to each side, so I am really worried about rubbing after I lower it. Anyone have any words of wisdom there? Also, when ordering the Performance Suspension Rebuild Kit it's asking if my upper control arms are 3-bolt or 4-bolt. How can I tell? Thanks! Thomas Those all-in-one kits are the best option for an old Stang still wearing its original underpinnings. I would not go with the 5 leafs, though -- a little stiff. Yes you can lower later with blocks, but the reason for your sagging rear now is that the springs are 38 years old. If you put in standard height leafs and 620 coils you're going to have a rake. I'd go with the "mid-eye" rear springs and if necessary cut the fronts to match. These 15 x 8's must be aftermarket, and if they're rubbing they must have the wrong backspacing, because many are running 8" wheels and even 235 rubber on '68's with no problem. Maybe you should either get different rims or roll the fender lips. Rubbing tires suck. I believe only '65-'66 was 4-bolt. The reference is to the ball joint on the UCA, whether it's held in place by 4 rivets or 3. 180 Out On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 14:09:00 -0700, one80out wrote: > Those all-in-one kits are the best option for an old Stang still > wearing its original underpinnings. I would not go with the 5 leafs, > though -- a little stiff. You think that the 4-leafs are stiff enough to give good handling through the Texas Hill Country? I'm serious, we have some really awesome twisties here that I like to carve. > Yes you can lower later with blocks, but the reason for your sagging > rear now is that the springs are 38 years old. If you put in standard > height leafs and 620 coils you're going to have a rake. I'd go with > the "mid-eye" rear springs and if necessary cut the fronts to match. OK, cool. > These 15 x 8's must be aftermarket, and if they're rubbing they must > have the wrong backspacing, because many are running 8" wheels and even > 235 rubber on '68's with no problem. Maybe you should either get > different rims or roll the fender lips. Rubbing tires suck. It only rubs on the inside, not on the fender. The spacing is supposed to be correct, the guy at Discount Tire looked it up. > I believe only '65-'66 was 4-bolt. The reference is to the ball joint > on the UCA, whether it's held in place by 4 rivets or 3. Cool, will eye-ball it. Thanks! TC Thomas C wrote: > You think that the 4-leafs are stiff > enough to give good handling through > the Texas Hill Country? I'm serious, we > have some really awesome twisties > here that I like to carve. I think the best option is Maier Racing 4.5 leafs. My kids' ' 65 has these, with KYB Gas-A-Justs, midolyne and polyurethane bushings, 235/45-17's, frame connectors, underhood braces, and a six-point cage -- that is, a pretty rigid chassis for a '65 Stang -- and no one has complained. If you don't mind a little harshness, I've got 5-leafs on my '70 Cougar, 351C, 225/70-14's, frame connectors, Gas-A-Justs, and it took a little getting used to, but I grew to like it a lot. > It only rubs on the inside, not on the fender. Rubbing on the inside is EASY: spacers. I'm using a 7/32" spacer on the '65, with 17 x 8's, made by Mr. Gasket and I picked it up off the rack at Kragens. It was necessary for the rim flange to clear the ball joint. I also had to cut off a 1.5" section of the pinch weld at the rear of the passenger wheel house, where the sidewall wanted to rub at full right lock. Check where your interference is coming from, and if it's one of these pinch welds cut it out. Or get some spacers; most tire stores that have been around awhile will have them. 180 Out Grab A Track is pretty good. Mustangs Plus carries pretty good stuff. One change from original on mine is conversion to poly bushings/insulators, etc. The flex/distortion a lot less than original rubber, don't deteriorate the way rubber does with exposure to chemicals. You might also look at the PST(Performance Suspension Technologies) kit, though it may be a bit pricey. www.pst.com. I like what they have, and have used the kit for a 66 Fastback. I'll be adding sub frame connectors to stiffen the chassis more. Can't tell ya a thing about rear leafs. I'm running 225/50Z16 on 16x8" Vintage 40 rims front and rear (some run larger rears) and it was a simple bolt on. And that's with a negative wedge kit which lowered the front by 1.75". No problems I can see. Is your backspace correct? You should be able to see and count the bolts. >All - > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >Thanks! >Thomas Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16 I just put the front steering kit and the suspension kit on my '71. and the larger sway bar. makes worlds of difference. the springs were difficult to install as the perches were so tight. I found that I need wider tires and more engine now. But I should have the rubbing issue with the larger body style. I went the safe route, brakes, suspension, steering, motor. Can't decide on BB or SB stroker. also, I was able to measure everything before I took it apart and was close enough putting it back together to drive for a while without an alignment job. Scott > All - > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Thanks! > Thomas |
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