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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / July 2005'90 5.0 Engine slows to a stop
Hi All, I am a proud new owner of a 1990 Mustang 5.0 GT. Today while getting off the highway going to work my engine lost RPM and stopped. I had already downshifted into 2nd gear and suddenly the car felt like I had taken my foot off the gas, but despite giving more throttle, the car just stalled. I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but the RPM dropped before stalling. I had to restart the car 2 times in the space of about a mile, the 2nd time as I was pulling into the gas station. The tank was low but I dont think I was empty. This has happened to me before when I had plenty of gas in the tank. (As a side note I had changed my sparkplugs, oil and adjusted my timing last night) Could it be a problem with my fuel delivery? Thanks a lot for any help! -James Check your fuel pressure .... it should be somewhere between 30-40 > I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but > the RPM dropped before stalling. If the needle dropped to the peg but the engine was still turning at reasonable rpm... remove the TFI (Ignition Module), bet you find the grease on the back hard and caky... should be GREASY. Alternative is the ign power from the switch, notorious in those years for failing. ALL YOU GUYS OUT THERE WITH THE TFI SYSTEM ... IF YOU NEVER LOOKED AT IT, DO SO... RELUBE IT before it fails! That means take off the old, put on new. >> I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but >> the RPM dropped before stalling. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > DO SO... RELUBE IT before it fails! That means take off the old, put on > new. Okay, where is the TFI? I've got the grease and the time... Thx Brad >>> I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but >>> the RPM dropped before stalling. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Brad Mounted on the distributor. The grease is thermal compound that allows heat to conduct from the module to the distributor body. It's not dielectric grease.  SignatureDavid M (dmacchiarolo) http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled T/S 53 sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14 has been up 9 days 23:42 >>>> I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but >>>> the RPM dropped before stalling. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > that allows heat to conduct from the module to the distributor > body. It's not dielectric grease. Dielectric grease works just fine.... as does plumbers silicone grease from Lowes, it's the temp rating that counts. And the white grease for heat sinks always WAS called "dielectric grease" in the electronics industry. >>>>> I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but >>>>> the RPM dropped before stalling. [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > And the white grease for heat sinks always WAS called "dielectric > grease" in the electronics industry. Not in the electronics industry that I work in. There is a distinct difference between thermal compound and dielectric grease. It's not the "temp rating" that matters, it's the thermal efficiency that matters. Thermal (heat sink) compound has a thermal conductivity higher than dielectric grease, usually greater than 1 watt/meter-K. The thermal conductivity of dielectric grease is normally not specified. Check it for yourself: www.dowcorning.com among others. We use them both in the equipment that we design, and they are most definitly not the same thing. SignatureDavid M (dmacchiarolo) http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled T/S 53 sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14 has been up 10 days 13:55 > Dielectric grease works just fine.... as does plumbers silicone grease > from Lowes, it's the temp rating that counts. > > And the white grease for heat sinks always WAS called "dielectric > grease" in the electronics industry. Not since I've been active in Electronics. It was always called heat sink compound or thermal conductive grease. Dielectric grease may be non-electrically conductive and still not conduct heat very well. Signature"Network management is like trying to herd cats." -- Unknown "I wonder how much deeper the ocean would be without sponges?" -- TazAmd - Humor Section Gettingtogather.com On the 95 5.0 it is below the air intake on the passenger side firewall ...I think ... can someone confirm this ? No, I think the TFI is on the distributor itself. Its the thing that the wire harness plugs into on the distributor. I think it is held on by two small-ish hex head screws. > On the 95 5.0 it is below the air intake on the passenger side firewall > ...I think ... can someone confirm this ? > No, I think the TFI is on the distributor itself. Its the thing that > the wire harness plugs into on the distributor. I think it is held on by > two small-ish hex head screws. Which are, by the way; very hard to get to. You need a slim nut driver or slim deep socket. I bought a nice little tool made especially for that task from Late model restoration supply. Signature"Network management is like trying to herd cats." -- Unknown "I wonder how much deeper the ocean would be without sponges?" -- TazAmd - Humor Section Gettingtogather.com Just as a follow up for this thread that I started. I spent this morning replacing my fuel pump and filter and hopefully this solves the problem. I was able to isolate the problem by getting the car to stall when in a very hard corner with 1/4 tank full of gas and the car seemed to stop consistantly. So we'll see if the fuel pump/filter solves the problem. Of course, if not, I can always replace the TFI on the dstributer. Thanks all! -James >>I found it weird because the engine just didnt stop, but >>the RPM dropped before stalling. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > DO SO... RELUBE IT before it fails! That means take off the old, put on > new. So, your idea here is that if I keep the heat sink compound fresh, my TFI modual won't go out like they are prone to do? I didn't think they were *that* sensative to heat, but that would account for all the sudden failures. Signature"Network management is like trying to herd cats." -- Unknown "I wonder how much deeper the ocean would be without sponges?" -- TazAmd - Humor Section Gettingtogather.com |
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