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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / September 2005New differential recommendations for 9"
I have a 9" diff under my 66 stang. I believe its an open differential right now as a can leave a black mark with only the right tire. But I can leave two marks in reverse.(I wasn't trying too it just slipped) Possibly a burnt out Tracloc?? I am currently looking into the TracTech DetriotTrueTrac. I have read many reviews about it and seems pretty good. I also like the idea of not having to rebuild it. I have stock 91 5.0 in the 66 stang so the power isnt anything too special. What differentials do you recommend? Do the most 9"s have 28 spline axles? Whats the average cost to have a diff installed, $400, $500?? > What differentials do you recommend? Depends on what you're using it for. Street performance- 3:70's, highway- 3:00's, drag 4:11's > Do the most 9"s have 28 spline axles? yes > Whats the average cost to have a diff installed, $400, $500?? I had mine completely rebuilt for $400 and that was fair. If you already have the new gearset then I would imagine it would be less since all they gotta do is drop it in and check the lash (well basically).  SignatureScott W. '66 HCS Mustang 289 '68 Ranchero 500 302 '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W ThunderSnake #57 http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/ A '66 would have a 9" only if it came with the K code HiPo. The True Trac torsen is the best lsd out there. Most -- nearly all -- 9" have 28-spline axles. I paid close to $900 to have an Auburn diff and some Richmond gear 3.55's installed in a 8". I would expect the True Trac to cost more than the Auburn, but you didn't mention gears. 180 Out The guy I purchased the car from installed the 9" and 3.55's. I should check to make sure that they really are though. I will most likely reuse the current gears so I'm really just looking for a differential. > The guy I purchased the car from installed the 9" and 3.55's. > I should check to make sure that they really are though. I will > most likely reuse the current gears so I'm really just looking for a > differential. For your use, the stock Ford rebuilt LSD is plenty strong enough, quiet, works well, and is reasonably priced. You can pay more for something like an Auburn; but why would you? Signature.boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1965 FFR Cobra - Finally on the Road! >> The guy I purchased the car from installed the 9" and 3.55's. >> I should check to make sure that they really are though. I will [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > quiet, works well, and is reasonably priced. You can pay more for > something like an Auburn; but why would you? It might be strong enough for him, but a stock 9" LSD is about the weakest LS unit around. Al >>>The guy I purchased the car from installed the 9" and 3.55's. >>>I should check to make sure that they really are though. I will [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Al Sometimes upgrading to a stronger part isn't the best idea. You end up spending more money and going to more effort with no advantages. For a stock 5.0, a stock 9" is plenty strong enough to last for 100,000 miles. You could spend an additional $300 for a stronger diff, but it will still work invisibly for 100,000 miles. You haven't gained any advantage for the additional expense. Same thing with axles, springs, shocks, etc. You can spend a lot of money to get a "stronger" part, but you don't gain anything. No value added. Save the money and use it for something worth while - like better seats. OTOH, if future plans call for a stronger motor, drag slicks, or a class III trailer hitch, then it's worth while to go for the stronger parts now. Signature.boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1965 FFR Cobra - Finally on the Road! Where is the cheapest place to buy a Trac-Loc unit? All the ones I have seen are only about $100 cheaper than the Detroit Truetrac or the Auburn Pro Series. |
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