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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / November 2005Head bolt sheared -- how to get out
I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am looking for advice from those who have done this before. Thanks. > I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one > of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am > looking for advice from those who have done this before. Ugh....This is why I normally use an impact gun on them when I can. It seems to reduce the incidence of snapping the heads off of bolts. Douse the protruding stud in PB Blaster or WD-40 and let it sit overnight. Use a stud extractor on it to remove it from the block. Get a new set of head bolts from your local stealership. What did the valves look like? Cheers, I thought to try the my impact wrench but did not have an impact socket. It was dark out but all the valves looked OK except for #3 exhaust which had a small chunk out of it. The chunk was about the size of a match head and seems to have gone out the exhaust. Probably in the cat. Bottom end looks OK but also have to inspect in daylight. I am now looking for a roller cam/followers and new lash adjusters. I may be able to get a rebuit head for $250 with core charge so will look into that next week. Other than the head bolt I think I am OK. How hard is it to get the nut off the crankshaft so I can replace the timing belt? Thanks in advance. > Ugh....This is why I normally use an impact gun on them when I can. What did the valves look like? > Cheers, > I thought to try the my impact wrench but did not have an impact socket. Bummer. > I am now looking for a roller cam/followers and new lash adjusters. I may be > able to get a rebuit head for $250 with core charge so will look into that > next week. That's a great price if you can get it for that. > Other than the head bolt I think I am OK. > > How hard is it to get the nut off the crankshaft so I can replace the timing > belt? It's not hard at all to remove that bolt if you've got an impact gun. 8-) Cheers, >> How hard is it to get the nut off the crankshaft so I can replace the >> timing [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Cheers, Hard to get an impact gun in there to get the nut off. I use a long stout box wrench and a rubber hammer. If it's a stick shift, put it in the highest gear and lock the parking brake to keep the crank from turning. Al > I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang > but one of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above > block and I am looking for advice from those who have done this > before. > > Thanks. A tip... If you want some better performance out of that car.. though it'll cost you in mileage, get a head for a turbo coupe... assuming it's single plug still in that year. >I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one >of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am >looking for advice from those who have done this before. > >Thanks. The most effective way that I have found to remove bolts that have broken off is to weld a nut onto the stud sticking out. The heat from the welder is usually enough to expand and contract the bolt to be removed rather easily. ...Ron -- 68' Camaro RS 88' Firebird Formula 00' Mustang GT Vert > I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one > of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am > looking for advice from those who have done this before. > > Thanks. Use a good penetrating oil on this rascal and let it soak as long as feasible. Respray it occasionally. If I can get to it, I have used a small pipewrench (not vicegrips) on the bolt. It will bite in, and you can work it slowly back and forth and hope it slips. Tighten a little as well as loosen. Once you break the 'logjam' it goes pretty easy. As others have said, you can weld a nut to it and have a go with your breakover bar or impact wrench, too. I would have used a regular socket on my impact wrench, if I didnt have a proper impact socket. A good socket will hold up enough to loosen that sucker. You can normally take your head to a machine shop and have them go through it a lot cheaper than $250.. and you, I hope, know the condition of your head.. You have no clue, really, when you get an exchange. > If I can get to it, I have used a small pipewrench (not vicegrips) on the > bolt. I cant believe I wrote 'vice' grips...visegrips... >> If I can get to it, I have used a small pipewrench (not vicegrips) on the >> bolt. > >I cant believe I wrote 'vice' grips...visegrips... Must have been a subconcious thing. I like the original spelling better anyway, the only vicegrips I use in my garage are the ones used as clamps for welding purposes. ...Ron -- 68' Camaro RS 88' Firebird Formula 00' Mustang GT Vert >> I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but >one [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] >go through it a lot cheaper than $250.. and you, I hope, know the condition >of your head.. You have no clue, really, when you get an exchange. Why not simply tap it and use an easyout?  SignatureZombywoof Si vis Pacem, Para bellum > Why not simply tap it and use an easyout? Because he said there was a fair bit of stud sticking up out of the block. If it had broken off somewhat flush with the block, I'd agree with you. Cheers, > > Why not simply tap it and use an easyout? > > Because he said there was a fair bit of stud sticking up out of the > block. If it had broken off somewhat flush with the block, I'd agree > with you. Exactly. Easyouts are a pain to use, and not always so successful, especially if you have a more 'robust' way to approach it. Visegrips are okay as welding clamps, but on heavy jobs, they just dont hold the mark. A firm back and forth motion on the bolt shaft, with use of a good penetrating oil, will normally loosen even the toughest one. Thanks for all the excellent advice! I do not have a welder but will try pipe wrench and penetrating oil. Does anyone have a suggestion related to penetration oils? Lately I have been using rust check and it seems to help. Thanks. > Thanks for all the excellent advice! I do not have a welder but will try > pipe wrench and penetrating oil. Does anyone have a suggestion related to > penetration oils? Lately I have been using rust check and it seems to help. > > Thanks. In order of effectiveness Kroil Free All PB Blaster The best penetrating oil Ive ever seen/used is called "Nuts Off" but I havent seen it around in a while Dave >> Thanks for all the excellent advice! I do not have a welder but will try >> pipe wrench and penetrating oil. Does anyone have a suggestion related to [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > PB Blaster > The best penetrating oil Ive ever seen/used is called "Nuts Off" but I > havent seen it around in a while > > Dave I notice it a bit less in the last few years myself. |
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