 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / February 200693 2.3L issues
Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough. Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but WOT doesn't get any more down shifts. I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try? Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic convertor? Thanks for any help.... Gerry > Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for > about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic > convertor? First get the codes read out. Is Check engine on? Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course  SignatureYeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price you pay..DEAL with it! >> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for >> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle > Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course Also.. smell for gas in exhaust... also indications of leaky Fuel press regulator SignatureYeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price you pay..DEAL with it! >> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for >> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle > Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course No check engine light. No smell of gas in the exhaust (re your next post). Will look up the TPS and see what I can find out, although I wont know what to do to check it out. May end up taking it in to get codes read.... will just have to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnostic fee. Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. Gerry >>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for >>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] >the EGR diaphragm moving doesn't mean that the valve is closing all the >way. I would pull the valve and check it out. >>>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for >>>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] >>you see the EGR diaphragm moving doesn't mean that the valve is closing >>all the way. I would pull the valve and check it out. Thanks. When I pull it, what am I looking for? I pulled the sensor off the end of it and looked inside, but all I can see is what looks like a diapram and a spring. Gerry >>>>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for >>>>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > > Gerry I don't know what specific EGR type you have on your car but I think in principal there all the same. A vacuum is applied and the valve opens remove the vacuum and the valve closes. What happens is the inside of the valve gets coated with carbon and the pintle sticks or no longer seats completely. A simple test you can do is simply blow through it. You'll have to look at it to see where the exhaust enters and where it exits when the valve is open. If you can blow air through it without any vacuum applied then it's leaking. Oh, by the way when you do this your going to get a dirty mouth! go to the library and look it up in chiltons or haynes copy relevant pages |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.