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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / March 2006

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Help: "Inner Tie Rod" Replacement for 1992 5.0

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LX50Coupe92@aol.com - 14 Mar 2006 14:13 GMT
I have a 1992 LX 5.0 with 120,000 miles on it. I need to replace the
outer tie rod ends as they have never been done before and I'm getting
a lot of steer play from them. On other cars that I had, whenever I
replaced the out tie rods, I would do the inners rods as well just to
have them done as a set. I have a Ford Service Manual for the car and
the procedure that they have outlined to replace the inner "tie rods"
has the rack and pinion set out of the car, and the replacement is done
on a bench. I've never worked on the inner rods of a R&P set, so, I'm
not quite sure how it is done. It looks like from the service manual
that there is a pin holding the inner rods in place, and then a special
tool is needed after that pin is removed to unscrew the inner rods. The
Haynes and Chiltons manuals that I have don't even address replacing
them, just the boot that covers the inner rods.

I did a search of the newsgroup and I see that on similar topics many
of you suggest replacing a high-mileage rack and pinion set and maybe
even the hoses and power steering pump instead of just replacing the
inner rods due to the fact that there is probably a great deal of wear
on all of the components, and the amount of work to replace the inner
rods alone just doesn't justify replacing them alone.

My main question is: How do you replace the inner rods while the R&P is
still in the car? Could I trouble someone to walk me through the
process? Are special tools needed? Any little tricks I should know
about? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Backyard Mechanic - 14 Mar 2006 16:48 GMT
> I have a 1992 LX 5.0 with 120,000 miles on it. I need to replace the
> outer tie rod ends as they have never been done before and I'm getting
> a lot of steer play from them. On other cars that I had, whenever I
> replaced the out tie rods, I would do the inners rods as well just to
> have them done as a set.

> My main question is: How do you replace the inner rods while the R&P is
> still in the car? Could I trouble someone to walk me through the
> process? Are special tools needed? Any little tricks I should know
> about? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sigh... Are you borrowing trouble?  do the inners have any appreciable
play?   Is the rack leaking? Slight leaking can be addressed with the
Lucas additive for it.

I've never replaced the inner, in place, on a fox, but did on my MN12
(tBird) and it was cake!

But if the inners and outers both have play, have you actually priced a
complete rack replacement?  And I suggest replacing the High pressure
line, at any rate. Known to be troublesome.
Signature

Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

LX50Coupe92@aol.com - 14 Mar 2006 20:35 GMT
Ok, well I appreciate the expertise and your knowledge based on your
past efforts. Thank you for taking the time to answer..

Now, I'm a curious person and want to know the procedure for replacing
the inner rod ends on the car. Does anyone know the step by step
procedure on how to get the old inner rods off and the new ones back
on? Is there any type of bleeding procedure that might have to be
performed afterwards? Any special tools needed? etc....
dmd@don't_spam_me.nut - 21 Mar 2006 05:32 GMT
I just walked in from my garage, doing the same thing!  My outers are
fine.  My rack is fine, but those inner tie rod ends are junk.  I'm
not wasting money on a new rack...  Of course, make sure the parts on
your car are actually bad.  There's no use replacing good parts.  The
new Chinese ones might actually be worse!

I was just wondering how to do all of this myself an hour ago, but
figured out the dissassembly portion.

Tools needed:
Jack
Jack-stands
Flat head screwdriver
Cresent Wrench - or preferable a 1-1/4 open end wrench. (Not sure of
the size.)
Pliers or Needle nose.
Dikes - (Sidecutters.. not lesbians..)

1. Raise the car. Support with jack stands.  Make sure the wheels are
hanging.
2. Wipe or clean the grease and dirt away from the boots on the ends
of the steering rack.
3. Loosen the clamp on the inside of each boot with a flat screw
driver (or do one side at a time..)
3. Squeeze the clip around the tie rod that clamps the boot.  Slide it
toward the wheels.
4. Slide the boot out of the way.
5. The pin isn't in a thru hole- so don't wast time by trying to
hammer it out like I did.
6. Just loosen the large odd shaped hex nut.  It screws over the end
of the piston of the steering rack. Try to grab the pin out with the
needle nose or dykes if you can.  It's aluminum so it's soft.  Clean
the threads off if the pin smears into them.

I read in another post that someone's replacement inner tie rod ends
have a set screw instead of the pin.  That's all I know.  I need to go
find replacements for mine tomorrow.

Good luck!

> Ok, well I appreciate the expertise and your knowledge based on your
> past efforts. Thank you for taking the time to answer..
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> on? Is there any type of bleeding procedure that might have to be
> performed afterwards? Any special tools needed? etc....

>I have a 1992 LX 5.0 with 120,000 miles on it. I need to replace the
>outer tie rod ends as they have never been done before and I'm getting
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>process? Are special tools needed? Any little tricks I should know
>about? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
LX50Coupe92@aol.com - 21 Mar 2006 14:22 GMT
Wow, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to write this. Have
you tried going to www.50resto.com? They have all of the parts that I
needed for my car, even some hard to find little bits and pieces, and
they aren't crappy Chinese stuff that you get at the local store,
either.

Anyway, I really do appreciate you taking the time to write on how your
job went, it helped me a lot for when I will eventually do it.

Just one more question. The little pin comes out and I imagine you put
another one in after you tighten the new inner control arms on? I
assume the little pin is a lock pin of types, but, doesn't go all the
way through the control arm like a cotter pin would.

Thanks again for the information.

JJ
 
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