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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / April 2006'79 front suspension
We're still at the beginning of the saga of this car, but I have a couple questions on the front suspension and what we might do next. (the front brake upgrade is still high on our list...but junior needs to earn a few more paychecks to buy them) We replaced the rod and bushings that connect the lower arm to the sway bar. That was a good, easy fix that my son did himself. (How do we know how far to tighten this?) However, the car still bangs pretty hard over gaps in the pavement. Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear. I don't have any experience to draw from here... would old ball joints make a rough ride? Any tips on replacing them, and favorite places to buy the parts? I'm also thinking we need to do some easy stuff, such as replace the sway bar mounts and any other rubber in there. How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for, but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.) Last q...where do I get a throttle cable assembly? Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine? Junk? Solid? Just OK? -John O > Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's > diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear. Chilton's manuals are crap. They tend to mix all sorts of things up. Does the '79 even have grease fittings on the ball joints from the factory? Ball joint wear is generally measured by the free play in the joint. This means taking the weight off that portion of the suspension and trying to move the wheel/tire correctly (play in and out) to see if there is any looseness in the ball joint. > I > don't have any experience to draw from here... would old ball joints > make a rough ride? Any tips on replacing them, and favorite places to > buy the parts? Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks. > How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a > piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for, > but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good > price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.) Sounds like he was trying to make half a.s supports for sagging springs. > > Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's > > diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear. > > Chilton's manuals are crap. They tend to mix all sorts of things up. Does > the '79 even have grease fittings on the ball joints from the factory? Yeah, I see that now. Some of the engine instrux aren't very clear. I work for Heathkit, so I am spoiled, but still. The '79 does have grease fittings. > Ball joint wear is generally measured by the free play in the joint. > This means taking the weight off that portion of the suspension and [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks. Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take them to a pro. > > How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a > > piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for, > > but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good > > price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.) > > Sounds like he was trying to make half a.s supports for sagging springs. Yeah, I thought it was something stupid like that. > Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I > don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take > them to a pro. I suggest you dont... now is as good a time as any to demonstrate how to do such a job SAFELY. For crine out loud... you are going to be rebuilding that whole car, you cant run it to the shop every time it gets a little dangerous. And that's nowhere near as risky as messing with springs... which I also recommend he learn how to do right. Find a local, even a shop mech, who has done it a couple times, have him come and supervise for a few beers (after!)...  SignatureYeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price you pay..DEAL with it! > > Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I > > don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Find a local, even a shop mech, who has done it a couple times, have him > come and supervise for a few beers (after!)... It seems I had more danger stuck in my head about struts than about springs. John O > > Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I > > don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Find a local, even a shop mech, who has done it a couple times, have him > come and supervise for a few beers (after!)... OK, a look at the book last night confirms what you're telling me. This isn't nearly as difficult as I imagined. Looks like we can do the ball joints, lower control arm bushings, and maybe springs/struts all at the same time. Autozone rents (loans?) the tools to remove and install ball joints. Good idea to do this myself? -John O >> > Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one >> > I don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Autozone rents (loans?) the tools to remove and install ball joints. > Good idea to do this myself? Bear in mind the springs are more difficult than on many cars, they are short and require 'outside' compressors... I bought three different sets before I found one that worked well. Someone on here can probably tell you which ones/where to buy or rent them. SignatureYeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price you pay..DEAL with it! >> Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks. > > Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I > don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take > them to a pro. The mustang has struts separate from the springs. It's actually a straightforward job to do. I've done it on two mustangs, just took care and attention. "JohnO" <t696asm@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1145968479.047805.80180 @g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: > Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was > never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine? > Junk? Solid? Just OK? I have a 2.8 in my '75 Mercury Bobcat. It's a dependable, if somewhat noisy engine. It has solid lifters and has a distinctive clatter. It's strong enough to move that car, but your son isn't going to be doing any burnouts with it. Also, don't expect fabulous gas mileage. 22 highway is about as good as it gets. The 2.8 is a popular engine in Europe for swaps into cars like the Sunbeam, etc. They were originally used in the imported Mercury Capri, and found their way into Pintos, Mustangs, Capris, and early Rangers. It was originally an industrial engine made by Volkswagen. Ford bought the engine, and re-engineered it for use in automobiles. Ford updated it in the '80s as the 2.9, and again later as the 4.0. One tip I can give you - the thermostat housing can be a pig to work on. It's located on the water pump, and has 3 steel bolts threading into an aluminum shell. I would start looking for a spare, because if you ever have to change the thermostat, chances are the bolts will snap off, unless someone was smart enough to use antiseize on them. The part you want is not the front part of the shell, but the rear part that the bolts thread into. > > Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was > > never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > strong enough to move that car, but your son isn't going to be doing any > burnouts with it. Just as well, I suppose. > Also, don't expect fabulous gas mileage. 22 highway is about as good as > it gets. Well, that sucks. :-) > The 2.8 is a popular engine in Europe for swaps into cars like the > Sunbeam, etc. They were originally used in the imported Mercury Capri, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > want is not the front part of the shell, but the rear part that the bolts > thread into. Wow, that's really good to know. We almost took a look at that thermostat, and breaking off bolts would have wrecked our day. So, the 'stat is on top of the pump? A buddy and I guessed it was at the bottom, and my quick look at a Chiltons led me to believe the same. But the top is better. Looks like someone once replaced all the coolant fittings because there's blue sealant at those points. I'll cross my fingers on the bolts for now, but we'll keep any eye out for a spare rear shell. Thanks. -John O "JohnO" <t696asm@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1146051109.856536.232120 @i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: > So, the > 'stat is on top of the pump? No, it's on the right lower side. The bottom radiator hose attaches to it. > > So, the > > 'stat is on top of the pump? > > No, it's on the right lower side. The bottom radiator hose attaches to it. That was where we guessed. PITA to have to drain the entire system to replace a $8 part. ;-) -John O
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