1966 Ford Mustang

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

parrbv@cox.net - 27 Apr 2006 15:48 GMT

I have a 1966 Mustang with a 289 2bl carb and auto transmission.
Everything was working fine untill the other night. My son was driving
and he had the wipers, radio and the defroster on. As soon as he
turned on the head lights the car went dead. No power to the inside of
the car at all. The battery is good and I have power to the starter
solenoid and the voltage regulator. No power to the fuse box and all
the fuses are good. Any ideals ?

Thanks, Randy

Reply to this Message

DC Hunt - 27 Apr 2006 17:28 GMT

Did you check the connection between the regulator and fuse box? I had an
issue with my 66 where one of the connectors overheated mealting the jacket
around the wire and causing it to short out. After hours of searching I
finaly found that the the connectors in my high/low beam switch had mealted
and were grounding out. It is possible that maybe an old section of wire
overheated somewhere between the fusebox and voltage regulator and is now
grounding out. I have noticed that with the original wireing it tends to
build up a lot of resistance over the years which is especially bad at the
connection points. I even had the main connection in to the fuse box start
to over heat and melt part of the box on another old mustang I had. With
all of your excessories turned on I would be suprised if that were the case.

I hope that can be of some help.

-DCH

>I have a 1966 Mustang with a 289 2bl carb and auto transmission.
> Everything was working fine untill the other night. My son was driving
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks, Randy

Reply to this Message

Backyard Mechanic - 28 Apr 2006 13:49 GMT

> I have a 1966 Mustang with a 289 2bl carb and auto transmission.
> Everything was working fine untill the other night. My son was driving
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks, Randy

Trace by sight and color from the starter relay to the fuse box.

Probably a blown fuse-link... this is a selected resistance wire in the
leads.. or a connector crimp that has oxidized slowly and finally given
up... should show some signs of overheat as DCHUNT says.

If a fuse-link... there will be a 'factory-splice' to the standard wire...
fuselinks are more flexible is one way to tell them. If it is that...
replace with at least a 30 amp fuse link

Signature

Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

Reply to this Message

walt peifer - 28 Apr 2006 17:55 GMT

on the front side of the starter solenoid ( side closest to the battery)
should be a ring terminal with a black wire that has a yellow tracer on it.
This wire goes through the main harness. I believe on the 66 model it is one
of the two odd wires in the connector (i.e 2 are female the other six are
male and vice versa for the under dash plug) this wire should junction right
before the fuse box a from the split a yellow wire to the ignition switch, a
black wire with orange trace to the headlight switch, and the original black
with yellow goes to the fuse box. I believe that you will find that the
64-66 mustangs do not have a headlight fuse as they are internally
protected. so if you have no power anywhere. I would check the black wire
with yellow tracer using a piercing probe, to find the break/short

hope this helps

walt

Reply to this Message