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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / June 2006

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Worth replacing rear on 2K GT ???

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unixzip@yahoo.com - 13 Jun 2006 20:24 GMT
I have 80K miles on my 2000 GT 'vert.

Some water got into the rear-end and the gears make a slight grinding
noise. I asked the dealer to change the diff fluid and check the gears,
but he refused to even look inside, telling me that he was sure I would
need a new $1,800 rear.

I really have no time to look around junkyards for a used rear and just
need a quick solution.

The car rides fine (for now). Should I just ride it out till the rear
goes completely or does it make sense to get the new rear now? Sell the
car as-is? (I've sort of been waiting for the GT500 to be available :-)
).

Thanks
Ron
My Names Nobody - 13 Jun 2006 21:03 GMT
>I have 80K miles on my 2000 GT 'vert.
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> Thanks
> Ron

The damage is done.  At very least you should slow it down by draining,
flushing and refilling the axel housing.  If you don't want to do this
rather simple procedure by yourself, I'm sure you could find a shop to do it
for you.  This is a major issue that should be addressed before any more
miles are put on that car.  If you sell it you really should disclose that
the rear end has water in it.
.boB - 14 Jun 2006 00:06 GMT
> I have 80K miles on my 2000 GT 'vert.
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> Thanks
> Ron

   He's probably right, it does need a rebuild.  You can extend the life by cleaning
it out and adding new high quality gear lube - I like Valvoline synthetic or Mobile
1.  It's a simple job that you can do yourself for about $25 and  a couple hours time.
   But $1,800 is a little ridiculous.  I had an 8.8 rebuilt with new gears, new
bearings, and a Detroit TruTrak worm drive for $1,100.  I had the diff on my pick up
rebuilt with new gears, bearings, and LSD clutches for $850.
    I would think an open 8.8 rebuild should cost around $700'ish.

Signature

.boB
Arrived:  2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged   Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
    1HD1GEL10VY3200010    CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

Blue Mesteno - 14 Jun 2006 01:42 GMT
>     I would think an open 8.8 rebuild should cost around $700'ish.

Is there THAT much difference between the 8.8 and the 9? I had my 9" 3.70
trak lok rebuilt for $400!
Signature

Scott W.
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/

NoOption5L@aol.com - 14 Jun 2006 01:20 GMT
> I have 80K miles on my 2000 GT 'vert.

> Some water got into the rear-end and the gears make a slight grinding
> noise. I asked the dealer to change the diff fluid and check the gears,
> but he refused to even look inside, telling me that he was sure I would
> need a new $1,800 rear.

> I really have no time to look around junkyards for a used rear and just
> need a quick solution.

> The car rides fine (for now). Should I just ride it out till the rear
> goes completely or does it make sense to get the new rear now? Sell the
> car as-is? (I've sort of been waiting for the GT500 to be available :-)
> ).

Ron,

Seems to me the dealer is awfully eager to replace your diff and
collect 1800 clams.  I'd get a few other estimates, some from private
mechanics, and see what they tell you/recommend.

Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?

Patrick
unixzip@yahoo.com - 14 Jun 2006 03:51 GMT
> Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?
>
> Patrick

No idea. A friend told me that going through a puddle can cause some
water to get in through a top breather hole. (I guess that's what
happened).

I did get more info from the dealer today regarding his refusal to
change the diff fluid. In a nutshell, he said it would take a lot of
work to disassemble the rear and check all the gears. If he was to do
this, I would have to be ready to pay for a completely new rear if
needed (not just for fluid change). I told him just to look around
while the diff cover is off, but he told me it wasn't that simple. He
also told me that if he just changed the fluid and I had an accident
because of the rear failure, he would be somehow liable (which sounds
like total BS to me).

I'm still at a loss at what to do. Every time I went to a non-dealer
mechanic, there was some sort of f-up and I wound up paying twice every
time. On one hand, $1800 is still cheaper than a new car. The engine is
in good shape so maybe I'll just go for it. Sorry for long boring
rant....
Name: - 14 Jun 2006 04:30 GMT
STOP! Get someone else to check it! Several people have already warned you
here that this is very suspicious and sounds very overpriced!

>> Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> in good shape so maybe I'll just go for it. Sorry for long boring
> rant....
Brent P - 14 Jun 2006 06:15 GMT
>> Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?

> No idea. A friend told me that going through a puddle can cause some
> water to get in through a top breather hole. (I guess that's what
> happened).

Not a puddle, but standing water...

> I'm still at a loss at what to do. Every time I went to a non-dealer
> mechanic, there was some sort of f-up and I wound up paying twice every
> time. On one hand, $1800 is still cheaper than a new car. The engine is
> in good shape so maybe I'll just go for it. Sorry for long boring
> rant....

Ok, since you don't want to / can't change the fluid yourself, here's a
couple ideas.

1) Go to another ford dealer, tell them it's making noise. You
don't know why, play dumb, have them look at it.  If water got in there
they won't know it until they're in there if then.

2) Go to another ford dealer, say you want to have the diff fluid changed
as part of regular maintaince... if they say it doesn't need it, just say
you're anal about it and have it done. Don't tell them about noise or
water or anything else.

3) I have another idea if those two don't work. if a seal goes bad you
can have the seal replaced which includes replacing the fluid. Again go
to another ford dealer, don't talk about noise, it's leaking and it needs
to be fixed.
Ritz - 14 Jun 2006 12:13 GMT
>> Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> in good shape so maybe I'll just go for it. Sorry for long boring
> rant....

Sounds like your stealer just wants to soak you for labor charges.  It
is not that much of an ordeal to dump the contents of the rear and
refill it with gear oil.  Use a high quality synthetic oil like Mobil1,
Redline or Royal Purple.  If the gears arean't already chewed up, that
might solve your problem.  Continuing to drive it with contaminated gear
oil is a virtual guarantee that you'll need a new set of gears in the
rear.  An independent shop should be able to rebuild your rear for a
fraction of what the stealer quoted you.

Also, to get water in the rear, you'd have to submerge it.  I take it
the car was a flood victim or someone attempted to ford a deep stream
with it?

Cheers,
NoOption5L@aol.com - 15 Jun 2006 02:52 GMT
> > Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?

> No idea. A friend told me that going through a puddle can cause some
> water to get in through a top breather hole. (I guess that's what
> happened).

So you don't know if there's water even in there...?  Note: Going
through a puddle is not going to do it.

> I did get more info from the dealer today regarding his refusal to
> change the diff fluid. In a nutshell, he said it would take a lot of
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> because of the rear failure, he would be somehow liable (which sounds
> like total BS to me).

It is!  Do NOT let this dealership touch your car!  Only go back to ask
him to put his diagnosis and recommended fix in writing.  But I'll bet
you he won't do it, because he knows the story is BS and won't want to
be on record for saying it.

> I'm still at a loss at what to do. Every time I went to a non-dealer
> mechanic, there was some sort of f-up and I wound up paying twice every
> time. On one hand, $1800 is still cheaper than a new car. The engine is
> in good shape so maybe I'll just go for it. Sorry for long boring
> rant....

Find a local Mustang/car club and ask a few members if they could
recommend a good mechanic.

Good luck!  But remember, DO NOT let that dealership touch your car.
They're crooks!

Patrick
unixzip@yahoo.com - 15 Jun 2006 15:53 GMT
I took it to a shop a friend of mine uses. The guy charged me $90 to
change the fluid. He also didn't want to completely take apart the rear
to see where the noise is comming from. Unlike the dealer, he told me
that it was perfectly safe to drive the car and wasn'r surprised that
the dealer was scared to get involved. (I guess I'll just have to wait
till the whole rear locks up one day and I can have an excuse to buy a
new pony :-)  )

ROn
Ritz - 15 Jun 2006 22:41 GMT
> I took it to a shop a friend of mine uses. The guy charged me $90 to
> change the fluid. He also didn't want to completely take apart the rear
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> till the whole rear locks up one day and I can have an excuse to buy a
> new pony :-)  )

It's not going to lock up.  If there is damage to the gears, it will
progressively get louder and start to howl at high speeds.  If it's not
doing that now (after the new fluid was put in) then you're probably OK.

Cheers,
My Names Nobody - 14 Jun 2006 04:55 GMT
>> I have 80K miles on my 2000 GT 'vert.
<snip>

> Question: How in the world did you get water in your diff?
>
> Patrick

Oil seals ARE NOT WATER PROOF.  If you submerge you axels in water above the
outside axel seals for any length of time, you will have water seepage into
your axel housing. The longer your axels are under water, the more water
will enter your axel housing.
 
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