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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / July 2006Okay gearheads, need some advice. (again) lol
I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. Today, it got pretty warm here (and being way up in the foothills of the Rockies where the air is thin), the car was a real dog. Well, not a dog, but just not what you expect when you see the 5.0 on the side of a Mustang. So, I was driving by an SVT dealer and stopped in. That was my first mistake. (Grin.) I've decided to do one of two things. I only have money for one or the other, and I'd like your thoughts. First scenerio is get a 9lb supercharger from Ford. That's what I want, the Ford model, and there are no emissions testing where I live. What kind of hp and tq increases would a 9lb give me? And, more importantly, would I have to change the fuel pump and head gaskets, unlike the 6lb. This will just add to the cost, but I'm not sure how much. When I asked an SVT tech how many hours to do this he said, "I haven't done a 5.0 in years... why would you want to do that." Okay, so minus the prick (which also scares the crap out of me) how many hours on the 6 and 9 do you think it would take? Also, thought about this after, if I had a speed shop install it, would that void warranty? Anyone know? The other option is to go with some 3.73s out back and some Ford Racing "c" springs and long tubes (again, no emissions). Maybe there would be some money left over for some pulleys. Both routes would be good, one car would be more powerful, but the other would be more complete. But I can't do both. I do love to corner the car hard (got some really sticky and wide Yokohamas on her) and that's a blast. But I'm wondering if I shouldn't just do the SC while I have the cash, and add other things later. But option #2 is pretty enticing too. Help me out guys. Summer is running out. :) Thanks! Brad > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). High elevation means your best deal is to go with a blower. Simple bolt-ons won't make up for the loss of nearly 20% of your horsepower you're losing at that altitude. Trust me, I lived/raced in Albuquerque (5,300 feet) for 8 years. Patrick '93 Cobra > It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. > [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] > > ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C6A60F.F2D148C0-- I am not a big fan of the centrifugal blowers because they need to be spun to 5,000 rpm to get any decent power from them. I like the twin screw blows because they are more efficient and will increase horsepower and torque from idle to redline. I have a Kenne Bell Blowzilla/Flowzilla setup on my '89 LX and last time I had it on a dyno it made 460 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheels at 2,300 rpm. Take my word for it, an engine with a high flat torque curve is a blast to drive. Here's a link you should check out before making a final decision: http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/blowzilla-flowzilla/blowzilla-flowzi lla.htm > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). > [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). > > It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, > exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. Blower, no question. We lose almost 20% of our power just from the altitude. Worse in hot weather. If the blower is tuned correctly, you'll gain that power back and then the power that sea level cars gain. Blower is the best bang for the buck. Go with the 9#. At this altitude, it will be closer to a 6# than 9# power levels.  Signature.boB Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red. 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver 1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. Okay guys... 3/3 say blower. One says Flowzilla. But, it's $1000 more. I just can't do that. But I can do a 9lb Ford. I'm going to go back to SVT and have a talk with a real tech about that 9lb'er. Thanks guys! Brad BradandBrooks wrote: > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). > > It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, > exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. Blower, no question. We lose almost 20% of our power just from the altitude. Worse in hot weather. If the blower is tuned correctly, you'll gain that power back and then the power that sea level cars gain. Blower is the best bang for the buck. Go with the 9#. At this altitude, it will be closer to a 6# than 9# power levels. -- .boB Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red. 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver 1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. No matter what blower you choose be sure and get a custom tune (i.e. "chip") based on dyno runs with air-fuel ratio reading taken. This is necessary to keep you from running lean which can destroy your engine in the blink of an eye. This is especially important if you are going to run 9 psi. The more boost you run the hotter the intake air and the easier for detonation to occur. Also, I always say if you can't afford to rebuild your engine then you have no business installing a blower. It takes a lot of money to make horsepower RELIABLY. At 9 psi you should install larger injectors and fuel pump along with the custom tuned chip. > Okay guys... 3/3 say blower. One says Flowzilla. But, it's $1000 more. > I just can't do that. [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver > 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. Thx. Well, I can afford a rebuild, truthfully, I just don't want to. lol. I never got to SVT today. Monday for sure. I'll bring up these points. THX! Brad No matter what blower you choose be sure and get a custom tune (i.e. "chip") based on dyno runs with air-fuel ratio reading taken. This is necessary to keep you from running lean which can destroy your engine in the blink of an eye. This is especially important if you are going to run 9 psi. The more boost you run the hotter the intake air and the easier for detonation to occur. Also, I always say if you can't afford to rebuild your engine then you have no business installing a blower. It takes a lot of money to make horsepower RELIABLY. At 9 psi you should install larger injectors and fuel pump along with the custom tuned chip. BradandBrooks wrote: > Okay guys... 3/3 say blower. One says Flowzilla. But, it's $1000 more. > I just can't do that. > > But I can do a 9lb Ford. > > I'm going to go back to SVT and have a talk with a real tech about that > 9lb'er. > > Thanks guys! > > Brad > > > ".boB" <bobcowan@access4less.nospam.net > <mailto:bobcowan@access4less.nospam.net>> wrote in message > news:44b6cfb0$0$30623$ec3e2dad@news.usenetmonster.com... > BradandBrooks wrote: > > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). > > > > It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, > > exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. > > Blower, no question. We lose almost 20% of our power just from > the altitude. > Worse in hot weather. If the blower is tuned correctly, you'll gain > that power back > and then the power that sea level cars gain. Blower is the best > bang for the buck. > Go with the 9#. At this altitude, it will be closer to a 6# > than 9# power levels. > -- > .boB > Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red. > 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver > 1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z > 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 > 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver > 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Brad What point in the power band do you want the power? Would you want to feel full boost at, say, 2000 rpm or would you want the boost to roll on gradually and peak out at about 5000 - 5500? If you answered 2000 rpm then you want a twin screw-type blower like the Kenne Bell. Granted it is quite a bit more money but you know what they say. BTW the centrifugal blower that Ford sells is a rebadged Powerdyne part; I just did a quick search and found the Powerdyne 9psi unit for $1599 and the FRPP-badged version at $2074 (same retailer). John >> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >> [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > part; I just did a quick search and found the Powerdyne 9psi unit for > $1599 and the FRPP-badged version at $2074 (same retailer). One thing I forgot to add was that the Powerdyne (aka Ford Motorsport brand) units use a belt to drive the impeller which has a tendency to break quite often. Especially on the 9 psi units since they spin faster. It costs about $500 a pop to rebuild them so they may not be as economical as they appear. Also, you are right about power delivery. I personally don't want to spin the engine to 5,000+ rpm every time I want to get some horsepower. In third gear I can accelerate like I was shot out of a canon from 2,500 rpm to redline. With a centrifugal, in third gear, I would have to be running near 90 mph to be in the power band or be down shifting like a lunatic to keep the boost up. for awhile I had my Kenne Bell blower pullied for 16 psi and right of idle I had all 16 psi available at the slightest blip on the throttle. High rpm horsepower is OK but big torque is what makes driving REALLY fun, IMHO. JohnV@nn wrote: > BradandBrooks wrote: >> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >> >> It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. >> >> Today, it got pretty warm here (and being way up in the foothills of the Rockies where the air is thin), the car was a real dog. Well, not a dog, but just not what you expect when you see the 5.0 on the side of a Mustang. >> >> So, I was driving by an SVT dealer and stopped in. That was my first mistake. (Grin.) >> >> I've decided to do one of two things. I only have money for one or the other, and I'd like your thoughts. >> >> First scenerio is get a 9lb supercharger from Ford. That's what I want, the Ford model, and there are no emissions testing where I live. What kind of hp and tq increases would a 9lb give me? And, more importantly, would I have to change the fuel pump and head gaskets, unlike the 6lb. This will just add to the cost, but I'm not sure how much. >> >> When I asked an SVT tech how many hours to do this he said, "I haven't done a 5.0 in years... why would you want to do that." Okay, so minus the prick (which also scares the crap out of me) how many hours on the 6 and 9 do you think it would take? Also, thought about this after, if I had a speed shop install it, would that void warranty? Anyone know? >> >> The other option is to go with some 3.73s out back and some Ford Racing "c" springs and long tubes (again, no emissions). Maybe there would be some money left over for some pulleys. >> >> Both routes would be good, one car would be more powerful, but the other would be more complete. But I can't do both. I do love to corner the car hard (got some really sticky and wide Yokohamas on her) and that's a blast. But I'm wondering if I shouldn't just do the SC while I have the cash, and add other things later. But option #2 is pretty enticing too. >> >> Help me out guys. Summer is running out. :) >> >> Thanks! >> >> Brad > > What point in the power band do you want the power? Would you want to > feel full boost at, say, 2000 rpm or would you want the boost to roll > on gradually and peak out at about 5000 - 5500? If you answered 2000 > rpm then you want a twin screw-type blower like the Kenne Bell. > Granted it is quite a bit more money but you know what they say. > > BTW the centrifugal blower that Ford sells is a rebadged Powerdyne > part; I just did a quick search and found the Powerdyne 9psi unit for > $1599 and the FRPP-badged version at $2074 (same retailer). One thing I forgot to add was that the Powerdyne (aka Ford Motorsport brand) units use a belt to drive the impeller which has a tendency to break quite often. Especially on the 9 psi units since they spin faster. It costs about $500 a pop to rebuild them so they may not be as economical as they appear. Also, you are right about power delivery. I personally don't want to spin the engine to 5,000+ rpm every time I want to get some horsepower. In third gear I can accelerate like I was shot out of a canon from 2,500 rpm to redline. With a centrifugal, in third gear, I would have to be running near 90 mph to be in the power band or be down shifting like a lunatic to keep the boost up. for awhile I had my Kenne Bell blower pullied for 16 psi and right of idle I had all 16 psi available at the slightest blip on the throttle. High rpm horsepower is OK but big torque is what makes driving REALLY fun, IMHO. True True True. torque is fun!!! I love torque. But I find the 325 or so my 5.0 has is lots (what is the 2006 Vette, 400?) It's the horsepower I want to build. Highway stuff. Am I not reading this right? So then what is the hp and tq increase from a 6 or a 9lb? Any idea? And okay, let me ask you another question... :) for the price of the blower, Ford offers heads, rollers, headers a few other pieces that equal the price of the blower and Ford says dynos at 305hp. So, that's about a wash... Pros, cons to this? I'd really like your guys thoughts. Brad > > [quoted text clipped - 80 lines] > or so my 5.0 has is lots (what is the 2006 Vette, 400?) It's the > horsepower I want to build. Highway stuff. Am I not reading this right? The torque you are seeing at the wheels is probably much less, especially with the altitude in your area. I can tell you that 460 ft-lbs at the rear wheels is light years ahead of the stock output. > So then what is the hp and tq increase from a 6 or a 9lb? Any idea? A rule of thumb for a car near sea level is 8-12 horsepower per psi of boost depending on any other modifications you have made. Substantial torque increases with a centrifugal blower will be limited to 4,500-5,000 rpm and above. The power band of a centrifugal is narrow where a twin screw's is across the entire rpm range. > And okay, let me ask you another question... :) for the price of > the blower, Ford offers heads, rollers, headers a few other pieces > that equal the price of the blower and Ford says dynos at 305hp. So, > that's about a wash... Pros, cons to this? I'd really like your > guys thoughts. If you were at sea level I would definitely recommend going with a head/cam/intake swap. It would give you about the same hp/tq (280 rwhp/rwtq) improvement as a supercharger at 6-8 psi and it would be much more reliable. Since you are at a higher altitude I think a blower is a better choice. Since you are at a higher altitude you can probably run higher boost without the temperature penalty you would see at sea level. I really suggest you try and get a ride in two cars, one with each tyoe of blower. The twin screw will feel like you have a strong running, high revving 500 cubic inch engine under the hood. The centrifugal will feel almost stock until 4,500-5,000 rpm and then the power comes on fast and furious. > One thing I forgot to add was that the Powerdyne (aka Ford Motorsport > brand) units use a belt to drive the impeller which has a tendency to [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > at the slightest blip on the throttle. High rpm horsepower is OK but > big torque is what makes driving REALLY fun, IMHO. Mr. Johnson, What R&P ratio do you have in this torquey-horsey car of yours? >> One thing I forgot to add was that the Powerdyne (aka Ford Motorsport >> brand) units use a belt to drive the impeller which has a tendency to [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Mr. Johnson, > What R&P ratio do you have in this torquey-horsey car of yours? I have 3.55s which are really too high (numerically) for the torque it puts out. I wish I had kept the stock 3.08s or maybe went with 3.27s. >> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >> [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > > John Yes they are Powerdynes. I purchased the 6lb kit as a small boost for my car so I don't harm my engine and no oil line taps and its quieter then most. You can find them around the $1500 price check Ebay. They also come with a FMU which saves you a few hundred bucks. If you go for a larger pulley you need a by pass valve and a larger in tank fuel pump. Ask them which head unit you are getting with the kit. The BD11-a is the newer model so make sure that is what you are getting. The next step up is a the XB-1A which can handle upto 18psi and are fine at low levels but cost allot more. IMO I say go for the Ford Powerdyne if money is an issue. Its a great entry way into the world of s/c the belts are rated for 50k miles and you can have it rebuilt down the road for just over $300-500 with kevlar belts and other improvements. As far as centrifugal vs roots blowers also keep in mind the centrifugal (ex: Powerdyne, Procharger) will be cooler and allow a denser air flow then the roots (ex: Whipple, Kenne Bell). Henceforth you can have the two types of blowers producing 6psi but the centrifugal will give more power cause of the denser air flow. Just some more food for thought. Nick "JohnV@nn" <jmvannoy@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1152986442.666039.157450@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > BradandBrooks wrote: >> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >> >> It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, >> exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. >> >> Today, it got pretty warm here (and being way up in the foothills of the >> Rockies where the air is thin), the car was a real dog. Well, not a dog, >> but just not what you expect when you see the 5.0 on the side of a >> Mustang. >> >> So, I was driving by an SVT dealer and stopped in. That was my first >> mistake. (Grin.) >> >> I've decided to do one of two things. I only have money for one or the >> other, and I'd like your thoughts. >> >> First scenerio is get a 9lb supercharger from Ford. That's what I want, >> the Ford model, and there are no emissions testing where I live. What >> kind of hp and tq increases would a 9lb give me? And, more importantly, >> would I have to change the fuel pump and head gaskets, unlike the 6lb. >> This will just add to the cost, but I'm not sure how much. >> >> When I asked an SVT tech how many hours to do this he said, "I haven't >> done a 5.0 in years... why would you want to do that." Okay, so minus >> the prick (which also scares the crap out of me) how many hours on the 6 >> and 9 do you think it would take? Also, thought about this after, if I >> had a speed shop install it, would that void warranty? Anyone know? >> >> The other option is to go with some 3.73s out back and some Ford Racing >> "c" springs and long tubes (again, no emissions). Maybe there would be >> some money left over for some pulleys. >> >> Both routes would be good, one car would be more powerful, but the other >> would be more complete. But I can't do both. I do love to corner the car >> hard (got some really sticky and wide Yokohamas on her) and that's a >> blast. But I'm wondering if I shouldn't just do the SC while I have the >> cash, and add other things later. But option #2 is pretty enticing too. >> >> Help me out guys. Summer is running out. :) >> >> Thanks! >> >> Brad > > What point in the power band do you want the power? Would you want to > feel full boost at, say, 2000 rpm or would you want the boost to roll > on gradually and peak out at about 5000 - 5500? If you answered 2000 > rpm then you want a twin screw-type blower like the Kenne Bell. > Granted it is quite a bit more money but you know what they say. > > BTW the centrifugal blower that Ford sells is a rebadged Powerdyne > part; I just did a quick search and found the Powerdyne 9psi unit for > $1599 and the FRPP-badged version at $2074 (same retailer). > > John Yes they are Powerdynes. I purchased the 6lb kit as a small boost for my car so I don't harm my engine and no oil line taps and its quieter then most. You can find them around the $1500 price check Ebay. They also come with a FMU which saves you a few hundred bucks. If you go for a larger pulley you need a by pass valve and a larger in tank fuel pump. Ask them which head unit you are getting with the kit. The BD11-a is the newer model so make sure that is what you are getting. The next step up is a the XB-1A which can handle upto 18psi and are fine at low levels but cost allot more. IMO I say go for the Ford Powerdyne if money is an issue. Its a great entry way into the world of s/c the belts are rated for 50k miles and you can have it rebuilt down the road for just over $300-500 with kevlar belts and other improvements. As far as centrifugal vs roots blowers also keep in mind the centrifugal (ex: Powerdyne, Procharger) will be cooler and allow a denser air flow then the roots (ex: Whipple, Kenne Bell). Henceforth you can have the two types of blowers producing 6psi but the centrifugal will give more power cause of the denser air flow. Just some more food for thought. Nick Thanks Nick. That's a lot of info to digest. I'm just going to print out all these messages and hand them to the SVT guys. lol! So, how much power does a 6lb Powerdyne produce? Ford says a 9lb is about 40%. That's a lot. So, is a 6 about 25%? Care to offer thoughts on the NA route instead? Thx! Brad > BradandBrooks wrote: >> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] > > John Yes they are Powerdynes. I purchased the 6lb kit as a small boost for my car so I don't harm my engine and no oil line taps and its quieter then most. You can find them around the $1500 price check Ebay. They also come with a FMU which saves you a few hundred bucks. If you go for a larger pulley you need a by pass valve and a larger in tank fuel pump. Ask them which head unit you are getting with the kit. The BD11-a is the newer model so make sure that is what you are getting. The next step up is a the XB-1A which can handle upto 18psi and are fine at low levels but cost allot more. IMO I say go for the Ford Powerdyne if money is an issue. Its a great entry way into the world of s/c the belts are rated for 50k miles and you can have it rebuilt down the road for just over $300-500 with kevlar belts and other improvements. As far as centrifugal vs roots blowers also keep in mind the centrifugal (ex: Powerdyne, Procharger) will be cooler and allow a denser air flow then the roots (ex: Whipple, Kenne Bell). Henceforth you can have the two types of blowers producing 6psi but the centrifugal will give more power cause of the denser air flow. Just some more food for thought. Nick Thanks Nick. That's a lot of info to digest. I'm just going to print out all these messages and hand them to the SVT guys. lol! So, how much power does a 6lb Powerdyne produce? Ford says a 9lb is about 40%. That's a lot. So, is a 6 about 25%? Care to offer thoughts on the NA route instead? Thx! Brad Sorry for taking so long to get back to you, I am at my max of multi tasking atm lol. I showed a gain of 50hp with the 6lb pulley. I am happy with it but will certainly add an Anderson pipe, upgraded the fuel pump to a 255lb, bought an 11lb pulley which is really cutting it close to max for rpm, may have the computer redone, and a by pass valve. I am hoping to see much improved results so I dont have to do aluminum heads, intake, and cam right away. Power is addicting for sure. :) >>> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >>> [quoted text clipped - 69 lines] > of blowers producing 6psi but the centrifugal will give more power cause of > the denser air flow. Just some more food for thought. For the 5.0L engines there are no current Roots kits offered. He would have to go with a Kenne Bell kit. The twin screws are more efficient than the centrifugals and make less heat from compression. They also take much less hp to drive them at the same boost levels. The down side of the twin screw is there are no intercooler options for the 5.0L engines. I get around this by using water injection that is just as effective as an intercooler and in many respects is better. >>>> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >>>> [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] > around this by using water injection that is just as effective as an > intercooler and in many respects is better. The Roots type forces less dense air into the car were as a centrifugal is a colder denser charge. Also the higher rpm hp is less with the screw type. I can see arguments going back and forth on this for sometime on which is better. IMO if someone is interested do allot more research while you ask around. Here is a nice link I found with information. http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=5 Here is the keypoints of each type: Centrifugal Type Supercharging Recommended Usage: Street Use - Commercial Use - Road Racing - Drag Racing Positive Points: 1) Lots of Flexibility for Power Adjustments 2) Lower Discharge Temperatures 3) Great Reliability 4) Easy to install Negative Points: 1) Not as much power at low RPMs as Roots or Screw type superchargers Manufacturer Availability: Paxton - Powerdyne - ProCharger - Vortech Roots Type Supercharging Recommended Usage: Street Use - Towing - Extreme Drag Racing - Show Vehicles Positive Points: 1) Boost throughout the entire RPM range, right off of idle 2) Highest Potential for Gain (A must-have for all-out drag racing) 3) Excellent Reliability 4) Great Appearance & Stature (Most common supercharger type for show vehicles) Negative Points: 1) Sometimes Violent Throttle Response 2) Lower boost ratings at higher RPMs 3) Higher Than Normal Discharge Temperatures 4) Lengthy installation times Manufacturer Availability: Allen Engine Development - BDS - Magna Charger - B&M- Holley - Littlefield - Mooneyham - Weiand Screw Type Supercharging Recommended Usage: Street Use - Towing - Road Racing - Drag Racing Positive Points: 1) Great Power at Low RPMs (Great for Towing) 3) Factory Fit & Appearance 4) Great Reliability Negative Points: 1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is very flat) 2) Challenging To Achieve High Boost Levels or CFMs 3) Lengthy installation times Manufacturer Availability: Kenne Belle - Whipple <lots of good & bad stuff snipped> > Here is a nice link I found with information. > http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=5 [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Negative Points: > 1) Not as much power at low RPMs as Roots or Screw type superchargers So then why do they recommend it for street use? Are they only thinking high-winding ricemobiles? > Manufacturer Availability: > Paxton - Powerdyne - ProCharger - Vortech [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > show > vehicles) If it's a show vehicle, what's a blower doing on it anyway? It ain't even gonna be used... > Negative Points: > 1) Sometimes Violent Throttle Response So instantaneous power is a bad thing? Or are they saying that you can lose control because of the massive amount of power right off of idle? If you can't control your car with that much power you shouldn't have a blower. > 2) Lower boost ratings at higher RPMs > 3) Higher Than Normal Discharge Temperatures [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > 1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is > very flat) I'd love to know why a flat power curve is a bad thing. > 2) Challenging To Achieve High Boost Levels or CFMs > 3) Lengthy installation times > > Manufacturer Availability: > Kenne Belle - Whipple To simplify, if you'll be winding out your engine and you prefer your powerband up in the higher end, a turbo or centrifugal is appropriate. If you want additional power in the lower-RPM range, the roots or screw is appropriate. Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC > <lots of good & bad stuff snipped> > > Here is a nice link I found with information. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > So then why do they recommend it for street use? Are they only thinking > high-winding ricemobiles? My Vortech's boost starts at just over 3,000 RPM and climbs until I shift at around 5,900 at which point it's at about 9PSI... I will agree that it is missing the low-end grunt, especially after getting used to the torque I was getting out of the N20... but for around town and the occasional trip to the track I really like the centr. s/c. Actually I didn't think i was going to like it... but I'm actually very satisfied with it... > > Manufacturer Availability: > > Paxton - Powerdyne - ProCharger - Vortech [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > If it's a show vehicle, what's a blower doing on it anyway? It ain't even > gonna be used... Actually my car is a multi-purpose car! It's DD... It's race car... It's a show car... LOL! I agree though.. a Roots type sitting on top of the motor is sexier than a centrify all plumbed up on the front of the motor... However.. I did get a win at the local car show yesterday... knocked off some nice F-Bodys, couple of Vettes and some entries from the local low-rider club... Let's hear it for the Mustang!! LOL! > > Negative Points: > > 1) Sometimes Violent Throttle Response [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > you can't control your car with that much power you shouldn't have a > blower. I wouldn't say it's a bad thing.. but the way it was explained to me is it can make your car drive like an On / Off switch... which in itself may not be a bad thing but might get a bit tiresome if you r car is a DD and you roast the tires at every stop light..... With the Vortech the power comes on a bit smoother, definitely not a light switch... LOL!! > > 2) Lower boost ratings at higher RPMs > > 3) Higher Than Normal Discharge Temperatures [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies > Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC >> <lots of good & bad stuff snipped> >>> Here is a nice link I found with information. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > Actually I didn't think i was going to like it... but I'm actually very > satisfied with it... Your last sentence is what it is all about. If you're happy who cares what I think. ;) >>> Manufacturer Availability: >>> Paxton - Powerdyne - ProCharger - Vortech [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > nice F-Bodys, couple of Vettes and some entries from the local > low-rider club... Let's hear it for the Mustang!! LOL! Us twin screw guys see the centrifugals as a hair dryer on steroids. :) >>> Negative Points: >>> 1) Sometimes Violent Throttle Response [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the power comes on a bit smoother, definitely not a light switch... > LOL!! In some ways I thing the twin screw/Roots blowers are easier to control power delivery than a centrifugal. The power for a centrifugal comes on like a freight train in the upper rpm band. With the twin screw on my car I can modulate the power with great finesse with throttle position. It's an apples and oranges thing. >>> 2) Lower boost ratings at higher RPMs >>> 3) Higher Than Normal Discharge Temperatures [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >> Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies >> Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC >>Negative Points: >>1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is >>very flat) > > I'd love to know why a flat power curve is a bad thing. If RPMs are going up and power is flat, then torque must be going down. That's why I can't keep that grin off my face around 4000RPMs (still within the speed limits) buy crackers. SignatureTropic Green Y2K Mustang GT W/bits & pieces http://tinyurl.com/eh99n >>> Negative Points: >>> 1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > That's why I can't keep that grin off my face around 4000RPMs (still > within the speed limits) buy crackers. I can't get the grin off my face from 2,000 rpm to redline. ;) With a twin screw, it is not the power curve that is flat. It is the torque curve. When the torque curve is flat the hp curve is not and keeps increasing with rpm level. Check out the curves here: http://tinyurl.com/s69nm Show me a dyno run from a centrifugal that matches the KB kit at 8.5 psi of boost on an otherwise bone stock 05+ Mustang GT. >>>> Negative Points: >>>> 1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > matches the KB kit at 8.5 psi of boost on an otherwise bone stock 05+ > Mustang GT. http://tinyurl.com/euykk They both drop in torque high in the RPMs Up high they compare fairly close, KB rules down low and ATI is peaky, and to catch up it has that mid-high RPM "rush" so they are both fun, when "running", right? SignatureTropic Green Y2K Mustang GT W/bits & pieces http://tinyurl.com/eh99n >>>>> Negative Points: >>>>> 1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > and to catch up it has that mid-high RPM "rush" so they are both fun, > when "running", right? The ATI is still 14 peak hp off the KB even with 0.5 psi more peak boost. The ATI torque curve is pretty good for a centrifugal. Either blower will put a smile on your face. The biggest drawback I see to a centrifugal is the narrow power band for peak boost. Beyond first and second gear it is hard to be in the meat of its boost curve on the street. For some people though this isn't a negative and is even seen as a positive. Still though, it is all good. >> Screw Type Supercharging >> Manufacturer Availability: >> Kenne Belle - Whipple Lysholm? The one being used on the Ford GT? SignatureScott W. '68 Ranchero 500 302 '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W ThunderSnake #57 http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/ >>> Screw Type Supercharging >>> Manufacturer Availability: >>> Kenne Belle - Whipple > > Lysholm? The one being used on the Ford GT? The twin-screw supercharger was originally invented in the 1930's by Mr. Alf Lysholm who was then Chief Engineer of SRM (Svenska Rotor Maskiner AB). SignatureScott W. '68 Ranchero 500 302 '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W ThunderSnake #57 http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/ >>>> Screw Type Supercharging >>>> Manufacturer Availability: [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Alf Lysholm who was then Chief Engineer of SRM (Svenska Rotor Maskiner > AB). I have a Keene Belle on a 93 5.0 and it is cool, lots of torque at 1800 rpm, gets 6 to 8 lbs, nice whistling sound with it. >>>>> I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). >>>>> [quoted text clipped - 85 lines] > Here is a nice link I found with information. > http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=5 Personally, I wouldn't put too much credibility to this site, or for that many any site, that sells superchargers for a profit. There are many incorrect statements in the text you quoted. > Here is the keypoints of each type: > > Centrifugal Type Supercharging > > Recommended Usage: > Street Use - Commercial Use - Road Racing - Drag Racing Most commercial uses need low/mid range torque for towing or hauling heavy loads etc. It is rather inconvenient, unreliable and uneconomical to spin an engine to 5,000+ rpm to pull a load. Nearly all trucks, recreation vehicles etc. that need a blower use a Roots or twin screw type. Plus, most heavy commercial trucks use turbochargers. > Positive Points: > 1) Lots of Flexibility for Power Adjustments What does this mean? > 2) Lower Discharge Temperatures Lower than a Roots blower but not a twin screw. > 3) Great Reliability Roots and twin screws are rated to last 200k-300k miles. A centrifugal is not rated that long. OEMs use Roots blowers because they are cheap and extremely reliable. > 4) Easy to install Most non-intercooled systems are easier to install compared to a Roots/twin screw. Throw in an intercooler and they are just as complicated. > Negative Points: > 1) Not as much power at low RPMs as Roots or Screw type superchargers [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Negative Points: > 1) Sometimes Violent Throttle Response It's called torque, not "violent throttle response". This is a laughable statement. A negative? Not hardly. Plus the power is easily modulated with the throttle. They make it sound like the throttle is an on/off switch. > 2) Lower boost ratings at higher RPMs With a roots blower this is true to a certain extent. However, it usually occurs because the size of blower used is too small for the boost level desired on a particular engine displacement. > 3) Higher Than Normal Discharge Temperatures This is very true. > 4) Lengthy installation times Not necessarily true. Most kits are just a little more complicated than installing a centrifugal blower. > Manufacturer Availability: > Allen Engine Development - BDS - Magna Charger - B&M- Holley - [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Positive Points: > 1) Great Power at Low RPMs (Great for Towing) Or launching with slicks bolted to the rear. Or just sending tires up in a cloud of smoke. Or effortlessly passing a car without down shifting. You get my point. ;) > 3) Factory Fit & Appearance > 4) Great Reliability True. Twin screws will typically out live the engine. In addition, twin screws take the least amount of hp to spin per psi of boost, they have the lowest discharge temperatures, are quiet, provide full rated boost from idle to redline. Also, the statement that twin screw don't provide high rpm horsepower is BS. They are great for it. With all the low end torque they produce the engine can be setup to be a high rpm monster with no low/mid range torque/drivability penalty. Do this with a centrifugal blower and it would be a disaster for drivability. Take a look at the dyno charts at the link below and tell me if power drops off at higher rpms. :) http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/gt05-06_3v/gt05-06_3v.htm > Negative Points: > 1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is very > flat) This is just a flat out false statement. It is the torque curve that is flat, not the hp curve. A flat torque curve is a good thing. Look at the curves in the above link. > 2) Challenging To Achieve High Boost Levels or CFMs WTF are they talking about? Put the right size blower on an engine and it will move all the air you need at any psi level you want. This is an idiotic statement and quite scary from someone claiming to be a blower expert. > 3) Lengthy installation times Not really. The Kenne Bell kits can be done in a about a day or two depending on the installer's experience level. Add an intercooler to a centrifugal (most Kenne Bell kits are intercooled now) and the installation time is nearly identical. > Manufacturer Availability: > Kenne Belle - Whipple The Kenne Bell kits for the Mustangs provide the biggest hp increases per psi of boost of any supercharger type. Their 8.5 psi intercooled kit makes 456 rear wheel hp on an otherwise stock '05+ GT. This is the same as 536 hp at the crank and is 90 rwhp more than a stock 03-04 Cobra. ProCharger, Vortech, Paxton etc. can't match them psi to psi on identical engines. Also, the area under the torque/hp curves for twin screws is greater which makes them faster at the track than centrifugals when peak hp levels are equal. Typically, a twin screw will run the same ETs as a centrifugal with 30-40 less rwhp with weight etc. being equal between the cars. Just to clarify, the difference between Roots and twin screw blowers is a Roots is an air pump and the twin screw is a compressor. The Roots moves air to the intake manifold which is where it gets compressed. Also, there is a slight reversal in the direction of air flow because of this since the manifold air is at a higher pressure than the air in the blower. This flow reversal heats up the air more and makes the Roots less efficient. The twin screw compresses the air in the blower not the intake manifold so the air flows one way all the time. This lets the discharge temps be much cooler than a Roots and even cooler than a centrifugal, psi for psi of boost. It also makes twin screws more efficient. >> Here is a nice link I found with information. >> http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=5 > > Personally, I wouldn't put too much credibility to this site, or for that > many any site, that sells superchargers for a profit. There are many > incorrect statements in the text you quoted. And your response is? Another site that is specifically selling one type versus a site that is impartial selling all different types of Superchargers. > http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/gt05-06_3v/gt05-06_3v.htm Here is a heads up comparison on a Corvette newsgroup. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=593480 bInteresting article in the August issue of Hot Rod. Take a stroked 327 ci SBF with common aftermarket parts, and compare the performance of the engine with commonly available Centrifugal (Paxton Novi 1200), Turbo (HP Performance T62-1), and Roots (Holley 174) supercharger kits. Boost was limited to 9.5psi, non-intercooled. --------------------------------Baseline------Centrifugal------Turbo--------Roots Peak HP---------------------392@6000------617@6000----600@6000--535@6000 Peak TQ---------------------386@5200------561@5200----617@4200--513@4600 Min Boost--------------------------------------1.7@2500-----5.7@2500--4.8@2500 Max Boost-------------------------------------9.5@6000-----9.5@5100--8.0@6000 Ave HP(2500-6000rpm)-------310-------------412------------460---------394 Ave TQ(2500-6000rpm)-------365-------------494------------564---------483 Ave HP(4000-6000rpm)-------352-------------518------------555---------472 Ave TQ(4000-6000rpm)-------371-------------542------------585---------497 TQ@2500-----------------------------------------360------------490---------440 TQ@3000------------------------340-------------405------------500---------450 TQ@3500------------------------355-------------450------------560---------475 TQ@4000------------------------365-------------500------------610---------500 TQ@4500------------------------380-------------525------------610---------505 TQ@5000------------------------375-------------555------------600---------505 TQ@5500------------------------355-------------555------------560---------485 TQ@6000------------------------354-------------540------------530---------475 HP@2500-----------------------------------------170------------235---------210 HP@3000------------------------190-------------235------------290---------250 HP@3500------------------------240-------------300------------375---------325 HP@4000------------------------275-------------375------------455---------375 HP@4500------------------------325-------------450------------525---------445 HP@5000------------------------360-------------525------------575---------485 HP@5500------------------------380-------------575------------600---------510 HP@6000------------------------395-------------617------------600---------535 >>> Here is a nice link I found with information. >>> http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=5 [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > versus a site that is impartial selling all different types of > Superchargers. I have been dealing with Kenne Bell for several years. The numbers they state are very close to those experienced by people who purchase and install their kits. Check out the dyno numbers on sites such as "The Corral" and you will find verification of KB's claims time and time again. They have very few complaints from those that purchase their blower kits. I responded item for item about what was wrong with text you quoted. I see you haven't bothered to make any statements proving me wrong. >> http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/gt05-06_3v/gt05-06_3v.htm > > Here is a heads up comparison on a Corvette newsgroup. > > http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=593480 > <snip> Regarding the above link, first of all you need to school yourself on the difference between Roots and twin screw blowers. They used a Roots blower that was run at 8 psi while the others were run at 9.5 psi. Also, a Holley 174 is not enough blower for that engine and boost level. You do realize a twin screw is much more efficient than a Roots blower? If they had used a twin screw of the proper size and at the same boost level then that article might have been relevant to our discussion. Regarding efficiency, the pecking order for forced induction is turbos, twin screws, centrifugals and Roots. God... I started this discussion and I'm as confused as ever! lol! Seems that I should get a Kenne Bell, but there's that price issue... So, going with the centrifugal, the Ford model, what is the proper great ratio? I imagine 3.73s are too much...??? Thanks guys. It was VERY enlightening! Brad Nicholas Anthony wrote: > "Michael Johnson, PE" <cds@erols.com> wrote in message > news:7e2dnSywPIrEFV7ZnZ2dnUVZ_s-dnZ2d@giganews.com... > >>> Here is a nice link I found with information. >>> http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=5 >> Personally, I wouldn't put too much credibility to this site, or for that >> many any site, that sells superchargers for a profit. There are many >> incorrect statements in the text you quoted. > > And your response is? Another site that is specifically selling one type > versus a site that is impartial selling all different types of > Superchargers. I have been dealing with Kenne Bell for several years. The numbers they state are very close to those experienced by people who purchase and install their kits. Check out the dyno numbers on sites such as "The Corral" and you will find verification of KB's claims time and time again. They have very few complaints from those that purchase their blower kits. I responded item for item about what was wrong with text you quoted. I see you haven't bothered to make any statements proving me wrong. >> http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/gt05-06_3v/gt05-06_3v.htm > > Here is a heads up comparison on a Corvette newsgroup. > > http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=593480 > <snip> Regarding the above link, first of all you need to school yourself on the difference between Roots and twin screw blowers. They used a Roots blower that was run at 8 psi while the others were run at 9.5 psi. Also, a Holley 174 is not enough blower for that engine and boost level. You do realize a twin screw is much more efficient than a Roots blower? If they had used a twin screw of the proper size and at the same boost level then that article might have been relevant to our discussion. Regarding efficiency, the pecking order for forced induction is turbos, twin screws, centrifugals and Roots. > God... I started this discussion and I'm as confused as ever! lol! > > Seems that I should get a Kenne Bell, but there's that price issue... They are more expensive but there are some good trade offs for that added expense. Plus, the kits for the 4.6L engines are complete. They include fuel injectors, computer chip etc. so the installation is complete and very reliable. When considering all that comes with the kit the price isn't that bad. The 5.0L kits aren't as complete. > So, going with the centrifugal, the Ford model, what is the proper great > ratio? > > I imagine 3.73s are too much...??? The 3.73's might work well since you won't make much power in the lower rpm range. > Thanks guys. It was VERY enlightening! That is what we are here for. Whatever you choose will put a smile on your face. >> God... I started this discussion and I'm as confused as ever! lol! >> Seems that I should get a Kenne Bell, but there's that price issue... [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > very reliable. When considering all that comes with the kit the price > isn't that bad. The 5.0L kits aren't as complete. I'm going with the KB, got one on my 93 5.0 for the last 10 years. If you put a KB kit on 2006 with the intercooler do you need a new hood? how bad is it trying to get the upper manifold off the 2006? >>> God... I started this discussion and I'm as confused as ever! lol! >>> Seems that I should get a Kenne Bell, but there's that price issue... [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > If you put a KB kit on 2006 with the intercooler do you need a new hood? > how bad is it trying to get the upper manifold off the 2006? Most KB kits don't require a new hood. I don't much about the newer 4.6L engines and how easy they are to work on. BradandBrooks wrote: > I have a 93 GT with pretty low mileage (about 40,000 miles). > > It's totally stock with a 5-spd and 2.73s. Oh, I do have an X-pipe, exhaust, subs, and timing bump. All the usual little things. > > Today, it got pretty warm here (and being way up in the foothills of the Rockies where the air is thin), the car was a real dog. Well, not a dog, but just not what you expect when you see the 5.0 on the side of a Mustang. > > So, I was driving by an SVT dealer and stopped in. That was my first mistake. (Grin.) > > I've decided to do one of two things. I only have money for one or the other, and I'd like your thoughts. > > First scenerio is get a 9lb supercharger from Ford. That's what I want, the Ford model, and there are no emissions testing where I live. What kind of hp and tq increases would a 9lb give me? And, more importantly, would I have to change the fuel pump and head gaskets, unlike the 6lb. This will just add to the cost, but I'm not sure how much. > > When I asked an SVT tech how many hours to do this he said, "I haven't done a 5.0 in years... why would you want to do that." Okay, so minus the prick (which also scares the crap out of me) how many hours on the 6 and 9 do you think it would take? Also, thought about this after, if I had a speed shop install it, would that void warranty? Anyone know? > > The other option is to go with some 3.73s out back and some Ford Racing "c" springs and long tubes (again, no emissions). Maybe there would be some money left over for some pulleys. > > Both routes would be good, one car would be more powerful, but the other would be more complete. But I can't do both. I do love to corner the car hard (got some really sticky and wide Yokohamas on her) and that's a blast. But I'm wondering if I shouldn't just do the SC while I have the cash, and add other things later. But option #2 is pretty enticing too. > > Help me out guys. Summer is running out. :) > > Thanks! > > Brad What point in the power band do you want the power? Would you want to feel full boost at, say, 2000 rpm or would you want the boost to roll on gradually and peak out at about 5000 - 5500? If you answered 2000 rpm then you want a twin screw-type blower like the Kenne Bell. Granted it is quite a bit more money but you know what they say. BTW the centrifugal blower that Ford sells is a rebadged Powerdyne part; I just did a quick search and found the Powerdyne 9psi unit for $1599 and the FRPP-badged version at $2074 (same retailer). John John, Is that really true? And you can get one for $1600? I can get the FRPP for $2000. That;s the cost of a new fuel pump and the gasket. Hmmmm... very interesting. I would like the low end power, but really, don't you guys find that the 5.0 has enough power from idle to 3,500 rpm? I find it lacks after that. Plus then, does traction become an issue? I'm starting to get confused here. But that's a good thing - means I'm learning something. :) Thanks! Brad > John, > Is that really true? And you can get one for $1600? I can get the FRPP for $2000. That;s the cost of a new fuel pump and the gasket. Hmmmm... very interesting. > I would like the low end power, but really, don't you guys find that the 5.0 has enough power from idle to 3,500 rpm? I find it lacks after that. Plus then, does traction become an issue? > I'm starting to get confused here. But that's a good thing - means I'm learning something. :) > Thanks! > Brad do a web search on "powerdyne supercharger". I also have a 93 GT (although with a lot more miles than yours). I have done quite a bit of research on the issues you bring up. I would summarize it like this: The centrifugals are best for the track (where you're "winding out" every gear as a rule), and the twin screws like Whipple and Kenne Bell are best for the street because, let's face it, how often do you really hit 5500 rpm driving around town. A lot of people say the KB on the 5.0 feels like a big block; they say it feels more like big displacement than forced induction. I have also researched doing a NA build up as you mentioned. Lots of people get big power without a traditional "power adder". The question is, what gives you the most bang for the buck. For most of us, that's a power adder. John >> John, >> Is that really true? And you can get one for $1600? I can get the FRPP for $2000. That;s the cost of a new fuel pump and the gasket. Hmmmm... very interesting. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > people say the KB on the 5.0 feels like a big block; they say it feels > more like big displacement than forced induction. The power curve of a twin screw is very similar to a N/A one except it is amplified across the rpm range for both torque and horsepower. If I put someone in a car with a twin screw and they couldn't hear the blower whining they would be hard pressed to tell whether it had a big block or a small block with the blower. I can modulate the power very easy with the throttle. If I want more power I just press the accelerator down more and let up for less. I can accelerate and easily keep the tires at the edge of traction or if I want send them up in a cloud of smoke. You definitely right about the twin screw being a very good blower for a street driven car. I can enjoy the power it makes in just about any driving situation. One of the best times is coming out of a curve in third gear and accelerating like a rocket from 2,500 rpm to redline. It never fails to put a smile on my face. :) > I have also researched doing a NA build up as you mentioned. Lots of > people get big power without a traditional "power adder". The question > is, what gives you the most bang for the buck. For most of us, that's > a power adder. One other thing I have learned is that trying to make big horsepower increases on the cheap usually ends up costing most than doing it right from the beginning. As the old saying goes, "You have to pay to play". Another is "Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to go?" Okay guys. Thanks for ALL the information! I got tons to think about now. lol You are all very knowledgeable and helpful and I thank you for taking the time to help! Brad JohnV@nn wrote: > BradandBrooks wrote: >> John, >> Is that really true? And you can get one for $1600? I can get the FRPP for $2000. That;s the cost of a new fuel pump and the gasket. Hmmmm... very interesting. >> I would like the low end power, but really, don't you guys find that the 5.0 has enough power from idle to 3,500 rpm? I find it lacks after that. Plus then, does traction become an issue? >> I'm starting to get confused here. But that's a good thing - means I'm learning something. :) >> Thanks! >> Brad > > do a web search on "powerdyne supercharger". > > I also have a 93 GT (although with a lot more miles than yours). I > have done quite a bit of research on the issues you bring up. I would > summarize it like this: The centrifugals are best for the track (where > you're "winding out" every gear as a rule), and the twin screws like > Whipple and Kenne Bell are best for the street because, let's face it, > how often do you really hit 5500 rpm driving around town. A lot of > people say the KB on the 5.0 feels like a big block; they say it feels > more like big displacement than forced induction. The power curve of a twin screw is very similar to a N/A one except it is amplified across the rpm range for both torque and horsepower. If I put someone in a car with a twin screw and they couldn't hear the blower whining they would be hard pressed to tell whether it had a big block or a small block with the blower. I can modulate the power very easy with the throttle. If I want more power I just press the accelerator down more and let up for less. I can accelerate and easily keep the tires at the edge of traction or if I want send them up in a cloud of smoke. You definitely right about the twin screw being a very good blower for a street driven car. I can enjoy the power it makes in just about any driving situation. One of the best times is coming out of a curve in third gear and accelerating like a rocket from 2,500 rpm to redline. It never fails to put a smile on my face. :) > I have also researched doing a NA build up as you mentioned. Lots of > people get big power without a traditional "power adder". The question > is, what gives you the most bang for the buck. For most of us, that's > a power adder. One other thing I have learned is that trying to make big horsepower increases on the cheap usually ends up costing most than doing it right from the beginning. As the old saying goes, "You have to pay to play". Another is "Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to go?"
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