Is there anything elecrical that has not been working right? Start
looking at that.
Do you know how to use an ammeter? Hook it up in-line with the source
and either pull fuses one at a time, or pull them all out and put them
back in, one at a time. Make sure you can put them back in there correct
spot.
Any great change in readings means something is pulling too much current.
From there, divide and conquer. If the fuse feeds more than one
component than disconnect them and start plugging one at a time till you
see a big draw in current.
It may be something simple though, like your dome light is on or something.

Your alternator needs replacing too.  some of the diodes went out, then it
could not charge your old battery.
better repleace it fast too.

You also may have a small lite that stays on,

The last time my car had these symptoms, it was because the battery
terminals and cables had corroded so much that only a trickle of juice was
getting through. Either way. They looked clean enough, but there wasn't
enough contact being made. I bought a new battery, too.

I was too embarrassed to talk about it at the time. But time has passed.

dwight
www.tfrog93.com

And the colder the temps, the faster you are apt to see this problem.
I went through a bunch of batteries while living in Maine. Didn't help
that all I had was a car port. I solved the problem by taking the
battery inside every night. In North Dakota, I drove to a store and
parked my 72 Mustang. Walked in the door and glanced back to see the
taillights on. Went back to the car, turned off the lights and the car
wouldn't start. A local whipped out his jumpers and we got the car
started. Ran it for a while and took a chance. Did the shopping and
loaded up the car and it started right up. Never had another problem
with it.

Are sears diehards still being made by exide on the cheap to ruin a good
name?

There are only two things I can think of

1) you have a current drain somewhere, measure the current being pulled
from the battery with the car off.

2) You got a defective battery or one that didn't have a full charge.
Just because it's new doesn't mean it is fully charged.

Had this too... one car was a drain and the other was a bad alternator.
Brand new battery lasted two days. Whatever it is, it isn't the battery.

Brad

It's time for the handy dandy test light disconnect your Positive + lead and
hook your ground wire of your handy dandy test light to your Ground - poll
of the battery and the other end to the positive + lead that you
disconnected and if the light comes on the you have something that is
draining the battery start pulling fuses.  I did this after 4 Batteries and
2 Altenators.. Found the BRAND NEW Pioneer Multi Disc Changer was draining
the battery so that little ( Yellow ) wire that keeps your memory for your
CD player was CUT end of problem..  I hope this helps

89 5.0 Mustang LX

http://www.geocities.com/detotty@sbcglobal.net/index

Just a thought here, have you tried the old alternator test. Start the car,
then with engine running, pull the positive battery cable off the battery,
if engine dies, usually indicates the alternator needs replacement.

My two cents worth, start the car, take the postive cable off the battery
terminal and if the car dies, you now have narrowed your problem down to
your charging system. If it continues to run, you know the charging system
is functioning.

Hope this helps

Don