I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
I have a '65 coupe that I'm starting to rebuild. It has been in
pieces for a long time. I've contacted a professional who will help
me with the hard stuff, but I'm willing to do grunt work to save
money.
So this guy told me to clean all the grime off of the chassis and
engine parts. What is the most effective way to do that? I'm doing
this in my basement, and don't want the whole house to smell like
gasoline or kerosene. Now that it is getting warmer (Georgia), I can
work in the back yard, but at some point all this stuff has to go back
in the basement for storage.
One neighbor told me to just buy all new parts, but I'd rather spend
time and save money. But I don't want this to take forever either.
Another guy told me to buy a parts washer. How do they work?
Should internal engine parts (pistons and such) be treated differently
than external parts?
I have a small sand blaster, and my pro told me to get some glass
beads for it. Where does that fit into the process?
Any information is appreciated.
-Rick
Michael Johnson - 20 Mar 2007 00:19 GMT
Have you looked into buying a hot tank? You might get by with using
engine degreaser at a self serve car wash on less delicate parts. I use
a liquid called Greased Lightening that works very well.
> I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
> since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> -Rick
jjj - 20 Mar 2007 05:14 GMT
I think andything that is an alkalytic cleaner (greased lighning,
simple green etc.) will pit aluminum (maybe magnesium, dont remember)
so you might want the be careful if you go with one of them. I've
also had good results with crushed walnut shells for abrasive
blasting. Eastwood sells a ton of cleaners and about 6 different
kinds of blaster media, www.eastwoodco.com.
> Have you looked into buying a hot tank? You might get by with using
> engine degreaser at a self serve car wash on less delicate parts. I use
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> > -Rick
Michael Johnson - 20 Mar 2007 05:32 GMT
You're right. That's why I stated to use them on "less delicate" parts.
I doubt the off the shelf engine degreasers will do much harm to
aluminum. The Greased Lightning might but then that is the reason is
works well.
> I think andything that is an alkalytic cleaner (greased lighning,
> simple green etc.) will pit aluminum (maybe magnesium, dont remember)
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>>> Any information is appreciated.
>>> -Rick
dont.bother@ga.prestige.net - 21 Mar 2007 01:51 GMT
I wasn't aware of such a thing until you mentioned it. (Remember, I'm
ignorant.) I saw one at Northern Tool this afternoon, but its price
(>$1000) seems like overkill to clean the parts on one car. (I'm not
in this as a hobby. My Dad bought this car new when I was 11. Once I
get this baby back on the road, my restoration days are done.)
But, I'll look around some more at hot tanks anyway.
>Have you looked into buying a hot tank? You might get by with using
>engine degreaser at a self serve car wash on less delicate parts. I use
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>>
>> -Rick
Michael Johnson - 21 Mar 2007 02:11 GMT
Check on ebay for one. Maybe there is a deal to be here there.
> I wasn't aware of such a thing until you mentioned it. (Remember, I'm
> ignorant.) I saw one at Northern Tool this afternoon, but its price
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>>>
>>> -Rick
Spike - 24 Mar 2007 20:04 GMT
>I wasn't aware of such a thing until you mentioned it. (Remember, I'm
>ignorant.) I saw one at Northern Tool this afternoon, but its price
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>But, I'll look around some more at hot tanks anyway.
Or build your own out of disposable stuff.... half an old 55 gal drum,
etc.
Spike - 20 Mar 2007 20:50 GMT
>I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
>since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
>-Rick
Somewhere near you is probably a truck station; either a major truck
stop on an interstate, or a large trucking company; which will have in
close proximity, a major wash station. A drive through similar to your
local self serve car wash, and some have either a pit or a ramp so you
can get to the underside. They tend to use higher pressure and good
jet of steam steam (not the weak stuff you normally find at the local
self serve car wash).
dont.bother@ga.prestige.net - 21 Mar 2007 01:59 GMT
>>I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
>>since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
>jet of steam steam (not the weak stuff you normally find at the local
>self serve car wash).
Hmmm. That doesn't seem very practical in my case. When I say the
car is in pieces, I mean pieces. The car is literally in boxes. The
engine is completely disassembled. There is hardly a bolt anywhere
that has not been turned. Most of them are in labeled baggies.
But that does make me wonder if a portable steam cleaner would be
effective. Any opinions?
-Rick
Michael Johnson - 21 Mar 2007 02:12 GMT
>>> I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
>>> since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
> But that does make me wonder if a portable steam cleaner would be
> effective. Any opinions?
A high pressure washer can do wonders to remove grease and grime. For
parts that have a varnish coating this won't work but maybe a good long
soak in a solvent will do the job.
Spike - 21 Mar 2007 21:06 GMT
>>>I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
>>>since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
SNIP
>>>I have a small sand blaster, and my pro told me to get some glass
>>>beads for it. Where does that fit into the process?
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
>-Rick
If you get a good one. There is a tool rental place a couple of blocks
from me that rents construction grade equipment. That type would be
the type to look for. And they do work quite well, although not as
powerful as the previous recommendation.
.boB - 21 Mar 2007 06:38 GMT
> I'm not sure how to ask this question without seeming ignorant, but
> since I am ignorant, I guess that's ok.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> So this guy told me to clean all the grime off of the chassis and
> engine parts.
You would surprised at how well common household
cleaner can work here.
Scrape away as much of the grime as you can with a
putty knife.
Use Easy Off oven cleaner for the steel parts.
Dawn dishwashing detergent, brillo pads, and
plenty of water; preferably hot water.
Simple Green works very well without damaging
hands , parts, or sinks.

Signature
.boB
2006 FXDI hot rod
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.
Michael - 23 Mar 2007 04:41 GMT
Get yourself a safety-kleen set up.
http://www.safety-kleen.com/SKInternet/SKHome.aspx?channelid=298aafcfbd6ed010Vgn
VCM1000001203200aRCRD
If that isn't in the budget, I recommend you PISS on your parts and then use
a tooth brush.
Michael
dont.bother@ga.prestige.net - 07 Apr 2007 20:02 GMT
Thanks to all who posted serious replies. What seems to be working
for me is the "Purple Power" stuff for degreasing parts. The stuff
will even soften the varnish on the internal engine guts. I haven't
tried it on anything aluminum yet, but the directions say to be
careful there.
And sandblasting with glass beads seems to cut the layer of rust off
of chassis parts nicely for repainting.
Cheers,
Rick