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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Mustang / May 2007

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Royal Purple

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Kemp - 25 May 2007 16:43 GMT
My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
10W-30, and I even heard using 5W-20 is okay.
harry - 25 May 2007 16:53 GMT
> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
> 10W-30, and I even heard using 5W-20 is okay.

the 10W or 5W is the lower temperature range, during summer and down south,
you can always use 10W
I would never  -20, too light,   always a -30
normal synthetic is OK,  M1 etc.

checkout

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
Kemp - 25 May 2007 19:11 GMT
> > My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
> > royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

That pretty much cleared it up for me. I appreciate it.
.boB - 26 May 2007 02:09 GMT
> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
> 10W-30, and I even heard using 5W-20 is okay.

    The oil needs to be thick enough to maintain
proper pressure in the normal operating conditions.
That's a pretty broad statement that means use whatever
gets the job done.    To low of viscosity, and you'll
score the bearings.  Too high, and you waste a lot of
energy moving it around, and nit won't oil well at low
temps.
    Let the owners manual and current operations
decide the weight.  0W-20 is perfect for my wife's '01
Cougar.  But it's a terrible choice for my Ford stroker
V8.
    Synthetic oils and dino oils have essentially the
same viscosity properties.  Whatever "weight" oil
you're using now (assuming you have correct pressure
now) should be the same when you switch to synthetics.

Signature

.boB
2006 FXDI hot rod
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

goodnigh - 26 May 2007 16:23 GMT
>> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
>> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> properties.  Whatever "weight" oil you're using now (assuming you have
> correct pressure now) should be the same when you switch to synthetics.

My '71 four venturi Cleveland was using 10W40.
We recently switched to a 20W40.  When I emailed
Castrol's website, they recommended 20W50 based on the
info I had given them about the engine, driving habits and climate.
That may have something to do with the 10.7:1 compression ratio.
The oil pressure was actually ~20% higher with the 10W40.

mike
harry - 26 May 2007 21:21 GMT
>>> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
>>> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> mike

When I had a 60 chevie that burned oil I would put in the thick stuff, it
burns slower to save money.
But the thick stuff in a good engine is temporary.
WindsorFox - 26 May 2007 04:29 GMT
> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
> 10W-30, and I even heard using 5W-20 is okay.

   I wouldn't but if you insist I'd use the 10-30. Watch the pressure
carefully and change the filter as soon as it spikes. RP seems to make a
big mess in the bottom of some engines.

Signature

"Humor is in the eye of the beholder.
Some beholders are flat-out blind." - Dwight

goodnigh - 26 May 2007 15:54 GMT
> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
> 10W-30, and I even heard using 5W-20 is okay.

Are you switching from dino oil to synthetic?
If you are, be prepared to patch a bunch of
leaks.  I have heard this before and here is written
info   www.lnengineering.com/oil.html .
Scroll down to the page where the guy talks about his 911.
Kemp - 26 May 2007 21:06 GMT
> > My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
> > royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> info  www.lnengineering.com/oil.html.
> Scroll down to the page where the guy talks about his 911.

The owners manual states to use SAE 5W-30, or a synthetic brand with
the same viscosity would be fine also. Castrols website also says to
use 5W-20 based on the miles and driving conditions. The previous
owner used 5W-30 castrol syntec, but I have yet to change the oil
because I have only owned it for a few weeks.
WindsorFox - 26 May 2007 22:48 GMT
>>> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
>>> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> owner used 5W-30 castrol syntec, but I have yet to change the oil
> because I have only owned it for a few weeks.

   OMG. Be prepared to flush the engine and crank case within the next
8K miles if you switch from Syntec to Royal Purple. I say that from
personal experience.

Signature

"Humor is in the eye of the beholder.
Some beholders are flat-out blind." - Dwight

Kruse - 27 May 2007 00:16 GMT
Be prepared to flush the engine and crank case within the next
> 8K miles if you switch from Syntec to Royal Purple. I say that from
> personal experience.

I guess curiosity killed the cat, but hopefully not the Mustang.......
Okay, I gotta ask. What happened in your case....sludge? oil
separation?
Obviously you had to flush it to get some crap out or what? Please
elaborate.
WindsorFox - 27 May 2007 17:37 GMT
>  Be prepared to flush the engine and crank case within the next
>> 8K miles if you switch from Syntec to Royal Purple. I say that from
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Obviously you had to flush it to get some crap out or what? Please
> elaborate.

    Using Castrol Syntec as apparently similar to using the old
Pennzoil, it left the non wear surfaces in my Mustang coated with a
thick film that resembled varnish. Keep in mind I did not know this at
the time. I changed the oil when I got it with the same Syntec my friend
used since the first change. My next change in 3 months was to Royal
Purple. The car had ~58K miles on it, mostly highway, zero mods, never
to the track. Within 6 days or so the oil pressure went down then up
every time I started. The filter was getting clogged, I didn't know this
at the time. When checking the dipstick there were flakes of crap all
over the stick, thus floating in the oil. I immediately had it changed.
told Goober up to thu' station what was going on and they were so
perplexed the gave me a free change. It kept doing it and I changed the
filter myself after almost 3 weeks.

    At this time was when I started to do a lot of research on oil and
on different brands. I also read some info on the Amsoil site and
combined with every thing else I read and and was told by different
people I switched to Amsoil and before draining the RP I added some
engine flush and flushed it well. The problem didn't return after that.
Several years later when changing heads and cam, I saw what was left of
the film on the surfaces of the engine and in the heads. Now I know that
the flakey stuff that was on the dip stick was getting cleaned off by
the RP and clogging the filter. It was finally completely cleaned when I
flushed it really well. I have other stories from other unrelated people
that tell me A) I'll never use Syntec again and B) Royal Purple solves
too much, too fast if you've been using an oil that leaves a lot of
residue.

   Castrol Syntec is NOT a true synthetic oil regardless of the judges
opinion.

Signature

"Humor is in the eye of the beholder.
Some beholders are flat-out blind." - Dwight

WindsorFox - 26 May 2007 22:43 GMT
>> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
>> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> info   www.lnengineering.com/oil.html .
> Scroll down to the page where the guy talks about his 911.

    There is a lot of incorrect information on that page and I have
know many people to switch to synthetic at a high millage and not have
any leaks.

Signature

"Humor is in the eye of the beholder.
Some beholders are flat-out blind." - Dwight

goodnigh - 27 May 2007 01:45 GMT
>>> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
>>> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> many people to switch to synthetic at a high millage and not have any
> leaks.

Not saying the engine will leak, but what if it does.
This is not first time I have heard of this issue.

What other incorrect info did you find as the article is 19 pages printed.
I am just looking for more information.  Oil could be considered a critical
component of your engine.  Once you discover you are using the wrong
oil, it is too late.
My owner's manual recommends "Ford 6000 mile engine oil" and it is
difficult find.
Ashton Crusher - 27 May 2007 06:52 GMT
>>>> My 96' GT has 109,000 miles on it, and I am going to start putting
>>>> royal purple motor oil in to it. What weight should I use? 10W-30,
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>Not saying the engine will leak, but what if it does.
>This is not first time I have heard of this issue.

I've switched three high mileage vehicles to synthetic.  One didn't
develop any leaks, one developed a very very slight leak, and the
other developed a major leak which was fixed with new valve cover
gaskets.

>What other incorrect info did you find as the article is 19 pages printed.
>I am just looking for more information.  Oil could be considered a critical
>component of your engine.  Once you discover you are using the wrong
>oil, it is too late.
>My owner's manual recommends "Ford 6000 mile engine oil" and it is
>difficult find.

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