>'89 Mustang GT.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>Thanks!
>Dave
Replacing the bushings at home is possible, it just takes some time
and a little frustration. I have done it on several vehicles
including an 82 Ford Fairmont and 86 Buick Grand National - the
Fairmont would be the same as doing a fox body mustang, as it's also a
fox body. The things you'll need are a large C clamp, large hammer, a
drill or torch, appropriately sized pieces of tubing (metal, hard
plastic, etc.) and an assistant would be nice too. First you need to
get the rubber centers out of the bushings so you can get the old
shells out. One way is heat them up with a torch and they'll
eventually melt out. This is messy, but kinda fun and not a lot of
grunt work. The other way I found to do this is take a drill and crap
bit (long enough to go all the way through or close) and drill into
the bushing between it and the metal sleeve, letting the drill run
around the perimiter of the rubber like it will want to - this will
break the seal between the rubber and its sleeve and free the bushing
and pop it out... ...a little more work this way but less smoke &
smell. Once that's done I pounded out the sleeves by doing one of two
things: either A) use a piece of steel the same diameter of the
sleeve, set it on the sleeve, run a rod through the other bushing hole
and pound it out with a heavy hammer, or B) drill a hole through the
sides of the sleeve big enough for a good size bolt to go in through
both sides - then you don't need an exact diameter piece (can be hard
lining it up each time to pound) and you just set a piece of steel on
the bolt and pound it out that way. Obviously you have to drill the
hole up toward the top of the sleeve so it can travel down as you
pound, since if you don't you'll just bottom your bolt out on the
control arm itself and the sleeve will go nowhere.
Some recommendations while you have them out of the car: 1) powdercoat
your arms and never worry about them getting crusty again - but don't
get any in the bushing bores or they can be tough to get back in 2)
use poly bushings if you weren't going to already 3) might as well do
the ball joints too if they're old
The ball joints are about a thousand times easier with a press, but
I've also just done it pounding them in and out with a large hammer an
in with an appropriately sized round piece
Ok on to the install... once again you have to take the bushings out
of the new sleeves to make life easier, they should pound out pretty
easily since they haven't been in your car for 20 years... All you
need is a round tube that will fit over the inside which you're
pressing toward or alternately a U shaped piece that will provide a
solid surface to press against while leaving a hole for the bushing &
sleeve as it's pressed through. So put that piece on the inside, a
flat piece on the face of the sleeve on the outside, center up the
clamp and start cranking. Sometimes you'll have to watch it as it
goes through to make sure the other side is going to make it and if
not adjust the clamp a bit to straighten out the sleeve. These can
press in hard, so keep an eye on the edges of the control arm because
when you start cranking the sleeve in, it can bend the edges in pretty
easily and if you keep going the edges of the control arms will end up
closer together than when you started. You could weld a piece of
steel on that open lower edge of the arm to prevent this, but not
everyone has access to a welder. You can also just put a piece (or
several) of steel in between the two edges to support them and prevent
them from bending in. Once you're trying to clamp and hold all these
pieces in place, you'll see where the assistant might be handy.
Anyway, after the sleeves pop into place, all you have to do is do the
same process with the new bushings - it's a lot easier pressing them
in than the sleeves, they should slide right in. Pounding them in can
be hard, because the hammer wants to bounce.
Anyway, I tried to include everything I can remember and hopefully it
makes sense and is helpful... :)
-Scott