On Oct 26, 8:26 am, "88 Mustang GT Conv." <marcbross...@rogers.com>
wrote:
> Ok...I got flack on the regular ford NG for posting this in a manner
> which didn't use the correct lingo so here it goes...
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> Thank you,
> Marc
What you're asking is very, very, broad. I'll give my opinion, but
I'm sure others' opinions will vary quite widely. I'm working now on
my third Mustang (all 5.0 Fox - bodies like yours), and it seems like
you're starting with a similar approach to mine. My goal has been
what they call a 'resto-mod'. I wouldn't want to do a pure
restoration, because I also wanted better performance and creature
comforts, especially audio. I guess what I am attempting is to
restore everything that needs it, but enhance where I feel it's
appropriate. Realize that exhaust and audio will detract from a pure
restoration. Next, if you change wheels, suspension, ride height (aka
lowering springs - to improve handling), chassis bracing (aka shock
tower, K-member bracing, subframe connectors), braking or other
things, you also take away from restoration. I guess it's all
judgement, the extent to which you favor restoration or modification.
I look at it like a sliding scale.
My approach has always been to address induction (ie cold-air intake,
air meter and throttle body, exhaust, then audio. Somewhere along the
line, I add the upgraded higher amperage alternator, and move to
stereo. Possible next steps include suspension, braking, further
engine work, and wheels / tires. I personally wouldn't do body kits,
or drastic interior changes. My goal has always been to keep the body
work and interior trim as close to stock as possible, with the
possible exception of billet interior dress-up. There are a bunch of
good resources. My favorite is Late Model Restoration supply (www.
50resto.com), but there are dozens of others. In my opinion Maximum
Motorsports are the kings of suspension and handling, but Eibach is a
good, proven commodity, too. For braking, there's a guy who has more
tech info than you could use, at http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/4lug.html.
I can't answer budget for you. I've done mine as I can steal money
away from a family budget including private school and college tuition
for two kids. As a result, my work has been slower and more modest
than it might have been otherwise. As another extreme, you could open
the bank, and contract a shop to build a custom stroker motor, and
custom engineer each of these systems. Your answer will lie somewhere
in between. I could go on for pages. If you have specific questions,
ask the group, or drop me a line.
NoOption5L@aol.com - 27 Oct 2007 02:22 GMT
Jim,
I agree with most everything you wrote, except:
A larger throttle body isn't needed until you change the intake and
heads.
And I'm not a fan of cold-air kits. A simpler, less costly, and
better IMO approach is to just pull off the stock air intake
silencer.
Patrick
> > Ok...I got flack on the regular ford NG for posting this in a manner
> > which didn't use the correct lingo so here it goes...
[quoted text clipped - 73 lines]
> in between. I could go on for pages. If you have specific questions,
> ask the group, or drop me a line.
biggus - 29 Oct 2007 04:09 GMT
> Jim,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> better IMO approach is to just pull off the stock air intake
> silencer.
Agree on the stock intake, no need to change that. Silencer can go first
thing.
Make sure you "read the plugs", and then check compression and the numbers
check out OK (about 50 within 10%) Engine may have some carbon built up
with that many miles. You may have to put in a rebuildt engine which could
impact your bucks to fix everything else.
Going after HP? best to put a blower on it, leave heads alone and get it
tuned at a shop.
I have a 5.0 1993 8# KB, rebuilt engine, about 310 hp. also had a 1987
speed density ex cop car tuned hot, a mover