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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / April 2005Beefing up my Ranger's suspension
I own a 2000 Ford XLT 4-door 2 -wheel drive. Shocks and springs are stock and my mechanic recently assured me they were fine. Whenever carrying a load of junk to the dump, or any kind of substantial load, I have noticed a lamentable tendency to bash my trailer hitch on any bump I encounter. Two weeks ago I was helping a neighbor get rid of a fallen tree in his front yard, and could load up the bed no more than 2/3rds with wood before it sank so low my trailer hitch would not have survived the trip from his driveway to the street. After all that work I had to partially unload my truck. Well, enough is enough! I am not looking to try and turn my Ford into a mini-monster truck or offroad vehicle. All I want to do is be able to carry reasonably heavy loads over sh*tty roads, and back into my driveway without messing up my trailer hitch. If my truck acts that way when I am carrying bags of cement back from Orchard Supply, what might it do when I am carrying a load of wood over a little dirt road out of the national forest? I have no experience in modifying the suspension on any of the vehicles I have owned, so I would like to ask you guys about what it takes to beef up the stock suspension to the point where I can carry what I want, where I want and not worry about rolling the thing over. I am not on too tight a budget, I would like to do the job right and then forget about it for the next 10 years, but would obviously like to avoid spending more than I have to. I was thinking possibly a set of add-on 3rd leaf springs plus a new set of big fat shocks all the way around. Would that do it? Would I need new coil springs as well? What are some good brands for add-on suspension components? Ideas? Suggestions...? > I own a 2000 Ford XLT 4-door 2 -wheel drive. Shocks and springs are > stock and my mechanic recently assured me they were fine. Whenever [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > do it? Would I need new coil springs as well? What are some good brands > for add-on suspension components? Ideas? Suggestions...? The problem is not just in the suspension on your Ranger. The frame is not designed to take what you are asking it to do. If you are not on too tight a budget as you say, get rid of your little grocery hauler and get a real truck like an F-250 or a F-350 and get on with your life. > I own a 2000 Ford XLT 4-door 2 -wheel drive. Shocks and springs are > stock and my mechanic recently assured me they were fine. Whenever [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > do it? Would I need new coil springs as well? What are some good brands > for add-on suspension components? Ideas? Suggestions...? Don't screw around with your own life and safety and the safety and lives of everyone else on the road with you. These Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings have been determined by many more systems than simply your springs. some of them are brakes, engine, transmission, axles, tires, frame, etc. You may well be able to put stiffer springs on your ranger and carry more weight, but it is not wise, safe or legal. If you were to overload your ranger and be involved in an accident, your insurance company could legally deny your claim, you could be held criminal liable for damages and injuries, etc. THE Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings GVWR are there for a reason. If you must carry or tow more than your small ranger truck was designed and built to carry, you need a truck with a higher GVWR, PERIOD, it is that simple. Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I can safely carry 1500 lbs. back there, and that is plenty for my purposes. I just would like some advice on how to beef up the suspension so I do not bash the trailer hitch on the ground backing into my driveway. I was told on another forum that add-on 'helper' leaf springs from Hellwig will probably do the trick. If anyone has anything constructive to add to that, I'd like to hear from you. >Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I can safely >carry 1500 lbs. back there, and that is plenty for my purposes. I just would >like some advice on how to beef up the suspension so I do not bash the trailer >hitch on the ground backing into my driveway. Well if your not going to listen to the "swell advice", maybe instead backing in, you could go in head first? Worth a try, and a lot cheaper. >I was told on another forum that add-on 'helper' leaf springs from Hellwig >will probably do the trick. If anyone has anything constructive to add to >that, I'd like to hear from you. Oops sorry. >>Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I can safely >>carry 1500 lbs. back there, and that is plenty for my purposes. I just would [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Oops sorry. You may want to try some air shocks and pump them up on the rare occasion when you need a lift. $60 should cover it. I used them on my Nissan truck and they worked great.  SignatureRob Munach, PE Excel Engineering PO Box 1264 Carrboro, NC 27510 > Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I can safely > carry 1500 lbs. back there, and that is plenty for my purposes. I just would [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > will probably do the trick. If anyone has anything constructive to add to > that, I'd like to hear from you. You said "SAFELY CARRY 1500 lbs.? Last I knew, a ranger is not designed to safely carry 3/4 of a ton. Just because you can move it, does not mean it is safe. While hauling that much weight, just assume that you have no insurance. If you are involved in a wreck, and the insurance company can prove you were overloaded, they can rightfully deny your claim. As such, try explaining to a jury, how you came up with a 1500 lb carrying capacity for your little trucklett. >> Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I > can safely [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > claim. As such, try explaining to a jury, how you came up with a 1500 > lb carrying capacity for your little trucklett. I used to be an insurance adjuster and your insurance carrier can NOT deny coverage just because you were overloaded. Just think, if the insurance co. could do that, then they could also deny coverage for failure to maintain proper tire pressure, failure to lube the ball joints, etc. (assuming tire failure or ball joint failure caused the accident). I do agree with you that 1500 pounds in a Ranger is not a good idea. If the original poster had to carry that much weight in the Ranger, then heavy duty springs and shocks would help, as would air shocks, but you still have the chance of rear wheel bearing failure. SF http://www.ultimateautoaccessories.com/Category%20Pages/Air_Suspension.htm SignatureRoy rem NADA to reply | >> Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I | > can safely [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] | chance of rear wheel bearing failure. | SF Found this, http://www.state.tn.us/generalserv/purchasing/vehic_specs/Truckcompct6ftbedexten dedcab.pdf Looks like a 1600 pound payload on a Ranger. SignatureRoy rem NADA to reply | >> Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I | > can safely [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] | chance of rear wheel bearing failure. | SF > >> Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I > > can safely [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > proper tire pressure, failure to lube the ball joints, etc. (assuming tire > failure or ball joint failure caused the accident). <snip> The key phrase being, "You used to be an insurance adjuster. Your carrier absolutely can walk away from a claim if you were obviously exceeding the manufacturer's design and recommendations for the equipment. There was a case just settled where some moron put a 175 hp outboard on a boat that was rated for 100 hp. He flipped the boat and killed a passenger. The insurance company hung him out to dry. The judgment was recorded against him personally. If I recall correctly, it was around $2.5 million. So, go right ahead, load that Ranger up with 3,000 lbs, of concrete, hook up a Bobcat on a 3,500# trailer and tow it down the interstate at 95 mph, and see if your insurance company stands by you, when you kill someone. > >> Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I > > can safely [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > proper tire pressure, failure to lube the ball joints, etc. (assuming tire > failure or ball joint failure caused the accident). <snip> The key phrase being, "You used to be an insurance adjuster. Your carrier absolutely can walk away from a claim if you were obviously exceeding the manufacturer's design and recommendations for the equipment. There was a case just settled where some moron put a 175 hp outboard on a boat that was rated for 100 hp. He flipped the boat and killed a passenger. The insurance company hung him out to dry. The judgment was recorded against him personally. If I recall correctly, it was around $2.5 million. So, go right ahead, load that Ranger up with 3,000 lbs, of concrete, hook up a Bobcat on a 3,500# trailer and tow it down the interstate at 95 mph, and see if your insurance company stands by you, when you kill someone. The other guy said.... >So, go right ahead, load that Ranger up with .>3,000 lbs, of concrete, hook up a Bobcat on a 3,500# trailer and tow it >down the interstate at 95 mph, If you guys know of a Ranger that can go that fast with that kind of load PLEASE! Tell me where I can find one. ROFLMAO SignatureR. J. Talley Teacher/James Madison Fellow NAR #69594 NRA #133073736 > The other guy said.... > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > If you guys know of a Ranger that can go that fast with that kind of load > PLEASE! Tell me where I can find one. ROFLMAO This reminds me of the time I saw someone in a Ranger towing one of those bakery style delivery trucks (the ones with the sliding driver's door). My jaw dropped. I'd guess one of those weighs around 6,000 pounds, but properly equiped, within the range of a Ranger though I would not recommend it except for very occasional short trips on flat roads. BTW, the payload of a Ranger is 1,600 and some odd pounds. It is important to remember, that includes the occupants, and cargo in the cab and other addons such as a truck cap, so your true capacity may by around 1,000 lbs. or less. John >> >> Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I >> > can safely [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > down the interstate at 95 mph, and see if your insurance company stands > by you, when you kill someone. Tyrone: Yes, I was an insurance adjuster and I stand by my comments. An insurance policy insures against the drivers negligence, with some exceptions,of course. You snipped some of my post (about why this is so) and you also snipped my comments about why I did not think the original poster (the owner of the Ranger) should overload his vehicle. Insurance coverage litigation is complex and varies state by state. If you negligently drove on an under inflated tire and the tire blows and you get in an accident, do you really think the carrier would be successful in walking away from coverage? Of course your example of going 95 with 3000 lbs might fall under an "intentional act" exclusion. Also, in many states, the courts are reluctant to place the injured party in a situation where there is no "deep pocket" i.e. an insurance carrier to pay for the damages, as a matter of public policy. Anyway, you should follow the thread and not accuse me of overloading a Ranger. I do not even own one. I was merely replying to your comment about insurance coverage. I even agreed with you that the Ranger owner should not overload the vehicle. By the way, are you an attorney or an adjuster or have any knowledge about insurance? SF > Thanks for all the swell advice telling me to get a bigger truck. I can > safely [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > will probably do the trick. If anyone has anything constructive to add to > that, I'd like to hear from you. I just removed and replaced the springs/shocks from my 96' xlt- 2wd 4 cyl. Broken spring on the passenger side, just under $300 for springs and shocks. This is not something you want to do unless you have to. The spring bolts, forward and rear, are slightly undersized, it is a real pita to get them out as they get bent and are impossible to pound out, had to cut them out with a sawzall. Only the rear shackle on the passenger side can be removed from the frame rails. Get a bigger truck. John Cairns I have a 2000 and put airbags on it. It was intense but I managed to do it on a a Saturday. Drilling the holes in the frame was the biggest part of the job. I have two fitttings mounted at the rear bumper to add air when desired. It levels the truck out nicely when loaded. Randy >I own a 2000 Ford XLT 4-door 2 -wheel drive. Shocks and springs are > stock and my mechanic recently assured me they were fine. Whenever [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > do it? Would I need new coil springs as well? What are some good brands > for add-on suspension components? Ideas? Suggestions...? |
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