97 E150 Club Radiator Replacement

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stonecrie@yahoo.com - 30 Jun 2005 02:58 GMT

Hi,
The top of my radiator cracked (plastic) and needs replaced (I have the
towing package). Replacement seems like I could do it, but I have
three questions:

1. Is the radiator at the Ford dealer ($345.69) a superior product to
the Advanced Auto Parts radiator ($196.00)? Ford stated that it was
larger radiator due to the towing package, I thought the tow package
only provided me an additional transmission cooler.

2. Does the fan clutch really need removed (from ALLDATA)? I only saw
one of those wrench sets at Advanced Auto Parts, but it did not have my
model year listed ('97) on the package. Not sure I can get it from
anywhere else. Thoughts?

3. A local shop is going to give me another price, labor is close to
the Ford dealer, but the part may be a different cost. The manufacturer
they like is "Mundeen" or something like that. They stated they found
it to be a great product. Have you heard of this?

Thank you in advance,
StoneCry

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DjE - 29 Jun 2005 19:07 GMT

> Hi,
> The top of my radiator cracked (plastic) and needs replaced (I have the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> larger radiator due to the towing package, I thought the tow package
> only provided me an additional transmission cooler.

Save your $$ and buy the Advance one. I have had really good luck with
their rads and coolers.
Add an extra trans cooler for $59 for some extra cooling while you are in
there to suppliment the one in the radiator.

> 2. Does the fan clutch really need removed (from ALLDATA)? I only saw
> one of those wrench sets at Advanced Auto Parts, but it did not have my
> model year listed ('97) on the package. Not sure I can get it from
> anywhere else. Thoughts?

Yes, the fan and clutch must be removed. I went to Auto Zone and borrowed
the clutch fan wrenches. I think Advance has the same program. Ask.

> 3. A local shop is going to give me another price, labor is close to
> the Ford dealer, but the part may be a different cost. The manufacturer
> they like is "Mundeen" or something like that. They stated they found
> it to be a great product. Have you heard of this?

If you are comfortable and have the time/space/tools then this is a good
project for ya. It's gonna be tight due to the van but it is doable.
Please catch ALL you coolant as it's poison to all the local critters.

> Thank you in advance,
> StoneCry

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David M - 30 Jun 2005 10:21 GMT

>> Hi,
>> The top of my radiator cracked (plastic) and needs replaced (I have the
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>> they like is "Mundeen" or something like that. They stated they found
>> it to be a great product. Have you heard of this?

Modine. They probably make the Ford part.
www.modine.com

> If you are comfortable and have the time/space/tools then this is a good
> project for ya. It's gonna be tight due to the van but it is doable.
> Please catch ALL you coolant as it's poison to all the local critters.
>
>> Thank you in advance,
>> StoneCry

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stonecrie@yahoo.com - 01 Jul 2005 07:27 GMT

Thank you for the input, this helps a bunch.

Rich (StoneCry)

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lugnut - 01 Jul 2005 12:06 GMT

>Hi,
>The top of my radiator cracked (plastic) and needs replaced (I have the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>Thank you in advance,
>StoneCry

Modine is an old brand. They make a very large percentage
of the factory radiators for all types of engines. AS far
as the fan hub wrench from Advance, I have one. I believe
the same wrench works on most if not all Ford pump mounted
fan hubs. The reason for removing the hub is so that both
it and the radiator schroud can be removed together. That
will allow room to remove the radiator. As far as which
radiator to use, I would get the one from Advance assuning
it is for the tow package. Make sure it is the same number
of tube rows as the original. If it not as thick, it will
not be up to the job.

Lugnut

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SnoMan - 02 Jul 2005 04:36 GMT

"" wrote:

> Hi,
> The top of my radiator cracked (plastic) and needs replaced (I
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> Thank you in advance,
> StoneCry

I would also suggest that you lose the 16 PSI cap and at least go down
to a 12 or 13 PSI one or lower to help avoid this problem again in
future. I never run stock pressure caps on any of my vehicals and I
have never had any heating problem either (nor any radiator tank
failures too) and I tow too. For what it is worth because plactic has
no bussiness in a tank anyway and lower pressure will help it live a
lot longer.

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stonecrie@yahoo.com - 02 Jul 2005 22:04 GMT

I would imagine that being better on hoses as well. Why do
manufacturers want the pressure so high to being with?

I did notice when the tank was hot the buldging where it's cracked. It
was noted after the van cooled and the crack sealed up some and the
surface was flat vs. slightly rounded. I've not lost much fluid.

Reply to this Message

lugnut - 02 Jul 2005 23:13 GMT

>I would imagine that being better on hoses as well. Why do
>manufacturers want the pressure so high to being with?
>
>I did notice when the tank was hot the buldging where it's cracked. It
>was noted after the van cooled and the crack sealed up some and the
>surface was flat vs. slightly rounded. I've not lost much fluid.

The reason for the pressure is to raise the boiling point of
the coolant. The combustion chamber area of the heads is
typically much hotter than the rest of the system and may,
in fact, boil the coolant that is in direct contact with
this area resulting in overheating of that area even though
the engine is not overheated. Lowering the pressure can
result in localized overherating that you will never be
aware of as well as pre-ignition under heavy load. I would
not advise reducing the cooling system pressure unless you
are also reducing the thermostat temp. The manufacturers
have done considerable testing of their cooling system to
determine what will or will not work. Reducing the stat
temp would not be any guarantee of avoiding the problem.

Lugnut

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